Question about Cars & Trucks
I can turn on my vehicle, it will go into gear, but it will not move/go/no traction in 1st-5th gear and even reverse. i checked the radiator and it was completely dry,there is resistance in the cluch and i also just replaced the master & slave cylinder. when it first gave out on my my cluch peddle had no resistance what so ever.then i turned it off put it in first gear and it would barley go,i had to gas it in order for it to move, my RPMs were Pushing 6
Check your transmission fluid if there is none the truck won't go even if it is just low if this is not the problem then either check your rear end fluid or something is wrong with your .... good luck
Posted on Jan 22, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Dear javatrader: There are very few solutions to this problem. The fact that you had mentioned 5th & Reverse, tells me that you problem is has two possibilities. Both relate to the same component.
The shift fork for Fifth gear and reverse are the same as well as the hub which the fork fits over.
When you Move the stick shift, it moves one of 3 rails in the transmission of which one is 5th and reverse. The hub is what locks the transmission in gear. The gears are what are referred to as synchromesh. This means that when you shift from gear to gear, it makes it possible to easily make the transition without the gears grinding while the car is in motion. The synchros are in fact, kind of a "BRAKE" for the gears so that when you go to shift into that gear, the synchronizing ring, slows the gear down enough to match the speed of the counter gear allowing it to engage with it, without grinding. As the hub slides into gear, there are spring loaded "KEYS" which are small pieces of steel about 1/2 inch long, 1/4 inch thick and 1/4 inch wide with a little hump in them to push up into a small cavity machined into the hub when it slides over it, thus locking the gear into place until you pull the stick to move it out of place. If a key pops out, it could cause the gear to stick, not allowing you to pull the hub back because the key has popped out at an angle which prohibits the hub from sliding over it.
Another possible senario: The fork is secured to the shift rail with a part called a "Roll pin". If this part shears, the car will be stick in what ever gear it was in at the time the pin sheared. If the pin shears, the stick will still move out of 5th gear position but the transmission won't.
This problem, unfortunately is not one a layman can fix. This is best left to a professional.
Good luck......If you are pleased with my answer, please write in, that you are satisfied with my answer. I am new in this "FIXYA" group and need more people responding to work my way up the ranks.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
is the clutch power assisted(vacuum)?if so couldvery well have some bearing on what is happening.I WILL TELL YOU A STOREY.A couple of months ago I changed the clutch master cyl. on my land cruiser and because I do all my own work still I didnot obey the golden rule..3days later i changed the slave cyl...l again did not obay the golden rule...... 2 days later iagain pulled the master cyl off cleaned it all out, but this time I OBEYED THE GOLDEN RULE,WHICH IS::always change the brake fluid when ever you change amaster cylinder either brake or clutch or when I was doing work for other people,if the brakes were worked on or the clutch you drained the sytem and relaced the fluid...ANY COMMERCIAL WORKSHOP THAT DOES NOT DO THIS IS GOING TO HAVE COMEBACKS ..it may only be 5or10% but for a $5container of fluid it isn` t worth the chance I was in that5 or 10 % are you? that is true,not more than 3 months ago give it some thought ....................
Posted on Aug 20, 2009
YOU NEED TO PULL THE TRANS AND REPLACE THE SLAVE CYL IF THE FLUID IS LEAKING AT ALL ONE WAY OR THE OTHER YOU WILL END UP REPLACING THE CLUTCH MASTER CYL BUT THIS TIME YOU NEED TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE SLAVE CYL AND APPLY PRESSURE TO IT HOLDING IT BACK WHILE SOMEONE PUMPS THE PEDAL AND YOU BLEED IT WORKS
Posted on Mar 04, 2010
Loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and allow it to gravity bleed, with the cover off the master. DO NOT pump the pedal while you do this and make sure you don't allow the master cylinder to get run dry. Watch for bubbles coming out of the slave when you are getting a steady stream or steady drip, no air, tighten the bleeder. Now fill the master to the proper level, some have a full line down in the reservoir, put the cap on the master and try the clutch, you may have to pump the pedal a bit, maybe a dozen or two times, to get the clutch to work right. I've done it this way, lots of times, on all kinds of vehicles it seems to work for me. If it won't gravity bleed you may have to get a piece of clear plastic line that will fit snug on the bleeder and try to syphon it. Use clear plastic line so you don't get brake fluid in your mouth, you can see the fuild coming. You can buy that line at most hardware stores I suggest about 6 feet or so.
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
Testimonial: "It is working better I just have to pump it a few time before going into 1st gear. Once I get going it's shifts fine. Thanks!"
Car is in limp in mode unless you have the tools to work on automatic transmission you will need to take it to a transmission shop. Of course you can check oil level but I suspect you have other issues.
Posted on Mar 26, 2010
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