2005 YUKON,I NOTICED A VOLTAGE DROP,THE DEALER PUT IN A NEW BATTERY,AND SAID ALT,WAS FINE,IVE WORKED ON MUSCLE CARS,AND STREET RODS FOR 36 YEARS,DEALER SAID THE BATTERY WILL ONLY ACCEPT THE VOLTAGE REQUIRED,TO HANDLE THE LOAD,VOLTAGE GAGE DROPS TOO 12-13.1 WHILE DRIVEING IT,,,MY ANSWER IS A BAD DIODE,IN THE ALTNATOR,I THINK THE DEALER,IS A ****,HAS ANY SEEN THIS BEFORE,,
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Re: battery voltage 2005 yukon
Hey Jim, I Too have been doing the Same as you for 35 Years. Let me Know if you want some Pics of my Babies! Check the Belt Tensioner. If the Tensioner is not Holding the Belt Tight Enough it will drop the Power in the Battery and Alternator. I know that I have seen these Alternators go a Lot higher than Capacity and still be Fine. I agree with you on the Dealer. Let me Know! Please Rate my Response, I need all the Help That I can Get! Thanks!
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If you can work back on the wires to see if you are getting power anywhere along the harness. It could just be the clip. In which case you can most likely get a replacement for cheap at the dealership.
Because of the load. It will drop in voltage, this is normal. As long as it stays above 12 you will be fine. But just to be sure start the car and turn everything on, then check the voltage. If it stays at 12.7 it's good.
I should make a 'slight' spark when you hook up the negative (very slight)-if it is a significant spark, you still have a drain-you can find drains on the battery by removing fuses while you have a digital voltage meter, hooked up to the battery-when you remove fuses, look for NO drop in voltage-there is your drain.
Just because they are new doesnt mean they are good. Plus, you may have a different problem and replaced perfectly good parts already. If the voltage goes that low in a few minutes, you have problems. Time to have a shop check it over that works on Hondas.
Yes,it is,the alternator is charging to much,this can lead to other component failures.Have the alternator changed,not just the regulator in the alternator,if a diode has burned threw,it can,and most likely is,putting out some ac voltage,witch is very bad for the ignition system,and it will put ac voltage in the battery.The pulsing is from ac voltage,not just a dc overcharge.The alternator should be 13.65 volts,to 14.25 volts,at the battery.Most of the time,when there is a pulse,in the lighting,and the alternator is charging around 15 volts,there is ac volts present.so this means,the battery would need to be changed also,to prevent any other problems.I hope this was helpful,and if so,please let us know,thank you.
maybe something shorting out drawing power did u have alt tested before switching out to make sure it was bad- sum auto stores such as auto zone/advanced auto can do a load test on vehicle for free will show if their is an excess draw on elect or if new alt is faulty (does happen) check serpentine belt and pulleys belt may be slipping then check ground strap , starter for draw or some other accessory
I doubt anyone could say what it will take to fix this - this problem requires visual inspection and if that doesn't turn up obvious loose ground cable some where you'll need your volt meter.
Basics - Battery voltage is good and load tests good. A battery problem can cause weird stuff too. You might try a known good battery if no tester is available.
Hooking up jumper cables in reverse polarity can cause problems beyondimagination.
Battery voltage beyond spec's will cause the power train computer to shut down in order to protect itself - it isn't doing that, right?
Add-on equipment ? at this point if grounds and power cables/wires are not indicating voltage drops I would monitor system voltages (a scanner will do nicely here) for spikes. It has got to be a voltage problem effecting so many devices. Disconnect add-ons till you are sure they are not causing the problem.
Think about a Professional, you'll save time and money ? Good Luck