Question about 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: how big of a job
Jeep actual made this pretty easy to do.
Remove the caliper and rotor.
Remove the axle nut.
Remove the three bolts that secure the wheel bearing to the knuckle.
Remove the wheel bearing.
The axle will slide out the opening of the knuckle that the wheel bearing sits in.
Posted on May 04, 2011
SOURCE: 1996 Jeep Cherokee Wagon "4X4".
Here are the instructions...
You'll need a ball peen hammer, a six-point, half inch socket, a twelve-point, half-inch socket that is half inch drive and a large breaker bar, a 36mm socket, flat blade screw driver, needle nosed pliers and probably a BFG.
Pull the cotter pin and retainer nut, then the wheel nut (the large 36mm nut). - This nut will be TIGHT.
Then jack up the Jeep, put it on stands, ect.
Remove the caliper with the half inch six point socket.
The brake rotor slides off.
Remove the 3 bolts holding the unit-hub to the knuckle. These use the half-inch twelve point socket.
These bolts are usually tight, sometimes the hub is rusted in. If the hub is difficult to get out, take the bolts to a hardware store and get ones of the same thread and a little bit longer. Thread them in and hit them with a BFH to help break the corrosion. You'll get 'em eventually.
Tap on the stub shaft end to separate the unit bearing and shaft assembly. Be careful not to knurl the end or the threads. It shouldn't take much.
Change the u-joint. The clips are on the "in" side of the joint. I prefer a ball peen hammer and an appropriately sized socket. Some guys use screw-type ball joint presses..those never work for me. I have had good luck with a hydraulic press, but a ball peen works fine if you have good aim. Once the clips are out, if it just wont budge, set it on something solid and give each bearing cap a solid thunk with your BFH. This will help to break the corrosion. Careful with the splined ends on the shafts when you are moving the shaft around.
Assembly is reverse of disassembly. I have heard of guys changing the U-joints without removing the 36mm nut and leaving the bearing attached to the stub shaft, but it's easier for me to separate them. You will also have to examine the ear of the shaft where the old u-joint lost it. If it's damaged, the yoke could be ruined and you'll need a new shaft.
Here is a few pictures and some info on removing the shaft/hub and a bit about the uj replacement that you might find helpful - SHAFT REMOVAL POST
Also could check this Do It Yourself U-joint Replacement
Posted on Apr 05, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 22, 2014 | 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty
Sep 21, 2011 | 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
Dec 15, 2009 | 1994 Mazda 323
Nov 11, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab
Sep 07, 2009 | 1999 Suzuki Swift
Aug 20, 2009 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Jul 09, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Ram 2500
Jul 09, 2009 | 1995 Honda Accord
79 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: