Question about 1996 GMC Suburban
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Im not sure if you got it fixed yet! It could possibly be idle air control valve. But here some more suggestions! I had a 94 Safari van 4.3 liter I was working on for about three days and I finally figured out what was wrong with it. It would run fine for a couple minutes and as soon as I hit the gas and let off it would surge, but anyways I ended up changing the distributer, after the fuel pump and filter, mass air flow sensor, egr valve, idle air control valve, map sensor, and ignition module. So that might sove the problem if you were on the same track with it as I was. Hope this helps ya!
Posted on Mar 09, 2009
I checked all of the fuseable links and they were all good. Next I decided to check all the power wires to the ECM and also the grounds from a wiring diagram because the Mil is controlled by the ecm and the bulb was good. The ecm is located behind the glove box. Bingo, the orange wire was only reading 3-5 volts at the ECM, but 12.5 volts after the fuseable link at the underhood fuse block (passenger side firewall). I ran a temp wire directly from after the fuseable link to the orange wire at the ecm and the ecm turned back on and the Mil or "check engine soon" light came on too. The truck started up and has never run smoother.
Note that at first the truck just stalled out and I could restart it right away with no error codes. Eventually the stalling became more frequent with longer reset times required. Once it threw a "code 54" and I thought it was fuel related as each time the gas stopped and I could still start the truck with gas poured into the TB. Ignition ok. My fuel pump turned on and ran if I tested it. I even checked the pressure regulator and the fuel filter to no avail.The orange wire that powers up the ecm is technically part or the fuel pump relay circuit as it also feeds the fuel pump relay 12.5 volts all the time. The thin orange wire from the fuse block is joined to two other thin orange wires in the large group of wires that heads to the ecm along the firewall behind the engine. I had to dig it out of the many wires to find it and remove a lot of tape. It is amazing to me that this one little orange wire could cause so much grief and be so hard to track down. I could not have afforded to take this problem to the Dealer.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
It might not have enough fuel pressure. Try spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body when you crank it to see if it fires.
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
even though parts are new they also come with defects so it sounds as if when you turn the key you hear it working and other times not at all hmmm connections are tight ? could be faulty fuel pump or relay .
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
What you need to do is check you fuel pressure. Go to a local auto parts store and buy a fuel injection pressure tester. The pressure fitting is on the top of the motor its a 3/8 ish sized metal line and has a screw on fitting like a tire valve does. This line comes up from the back of the motor to the right of the distributor and goes down into the intake. Make sure to have a rag handy to catch the fuel seepage. After you connect the pressure tester turn the key on and off three times and read the gage you should have atleast 58 pounds of pressure. If you have 56 pounds it won't run because the fuel injectors are a poppit valve style and need atleast 58 pounds of pressure to operate.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
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