Question about 1995 Ford F350

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1995 ford 7.3 powerstroke automatic shifts rough after transmission installed after replacing rear main seal

Check engine light stays on, shifts rough

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  • 7 Answers

-check your transmission fluid level. park the truck on a level surface with the engine running and pull your dipstick and read the level in regards to the engine and trans temp (hot or cold)
-if that checks out i would go under the truck and check all of the electrical connectors that go to the transmission making sure they are secure and making good contact. also check the wiring to the tcm(normally located on the right side frame rail if i remember correctly)and make sure they are all secure and in good condition

Did you do the rear main seal yourself or did you pay a garage to do it? and is there anything else that was done at that time?

Posted on Aug 17, 2016

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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leetamara
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SOURCE: Front Main Seal is blown on the Transmission

You have to remove the transmission, remove the torque converter to access the seal. Most likely the bushing behind the seal is worn out allowing fluid to leak past the seal. After the trans. is out, take it to a trans. shop. It requires a special tool to change the bushing. Seems like a bunch of work for $10.00 in parts. The rear main seal requires pulling the pan to access it. When the trans. is out, this is the time to replace the rear main seal on the engine.

Posted on Jun 11, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a 1995 Ford F250 Powerstroke Hard Auto shifting

I had the same problem on my 95. The problem was the torque converter was not unlocking. It had to be replaced.

Posted on Apr 24, 2010

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: Transmission is shifting hard in first gear. How

you will have to remove the trans pan to drain it and also the torque converter will have to be drained you could also adjust the band to help shifting.i would suggest that you chance the filter while your changing often neglected these inexpensine item will prolong the life of a transmission in changed at regular intervals also looks for leaky vacuum lines.make sure you follow correct procedures for refilling before restarting and the connection at the throttle body.  

Posted on Jul 12, 2010

emissionwiz
  • 76132 Answers

SOURCE: rear main seal

THE REAR MAIN IS WHAT IS CALLED A FULL CIRCLE SEAL, SO YES THE TRANS AND FLYWHEEL MUST BE REMOVED, U WILL ALSO NEED THE SPECIAL FORD SEAL INSTALLER, WITHOUT IT THE SEAL WILL MOST LIKELY LEAK SOONER AFTER INSTALLATION.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

jbass706
  • 167 Answers

SOURCE: ck engine light on - no code

Check engine light with no codes usually means a PCM reset is happening. EBP shorting, ICP shorting, aftermarket "performance chip". PIDS need to be monitored to eliminate sensors. IDMs (Injector Driver Modules) can also cause this. IDM's are separate from the PCM/ECM (engine computer).

Posted on Oct 25, 2009

Testimonial: "THANKS! no custom chip- burned valve pasthru conect so will start over from there- now have code-P1280-P1293 Thanks Again- Eric"

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2 Answers

I am having alot of oil leakage from my 1995 ford thunderbird V8 i believe it is a 302


A rear seal is a big job. Best way to confirm is to clean it up real well and see if you can track down the leak.

Jan 05, 2015 | 1995 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

Rear seal leaking on 2007 ford escape


In order to replace the rear main seal you will need some auto repair tools and experience . this is a big job , the transmission must be removed to replace this seal, also make sure that the seal is the leak,

oil always flows down, a leak on the top of the engine will flow down and drip at the center rear and look like a rear main seal , make sure that is the leak!!.

Depending on what engine you have and if it has 4 wheel drive the time for a shop to do is from 7 to 10 hours depending on engine size and 4wd,

Oct 21, 2012 | 2007 Ford Escape

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My son has been doing something called doughnuts?in his car .so has split the main feeder pipe .i have changed that .but now there is fluid dripping from somewhere behind the engine could this be something...


dougnuts are never a good thing. the front seal on transmission could be leaking,if so the fluid will be red.it will drip down between the engine and transmission. if so, the transmission will need to come out fo r a replacement of front transmission seal. if it's clear fluid,it may be a bad steering rack. if it's black oil, it could be a bad rear main engine seal. if bad rear main seal,that transmission will need to come out for replacement of rear main engine seal.a abd rear main engine seal will also leak down between the engine and transmission and be black oil. check for color of the fluid leaking to give you a starting point to diagnose what to look for. thank you for choosing fixya.com

Dec 30, 2010 | Ford Festiva Cars & Trucks

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Im looking at a 95' dakota. what is the most commin repairs in this vehical and maintenace


i have had 2 Dakota's a 4 cyl "LACK OF POWER" but never had a problem.
the other A 318 V8 14mpg but was a beast 4wheel drive the only problem I had with the v8 was when it rained water got on the dash bord,,,never figured out where it came from,
BUT I'd buy a 98 or newer one...
PROBLEMS LISTED BELOW!!

Air conditioner: If the air conditioner gradually stops cooling and/or the airflow from the vents decreases, the computer (PCM) may not be sending a signal to the compressor clutch relay to cycle off, which causes the AC evaporator to freeze up. (1991-95)

Automatic transmission: If the transmission will not engage when first started, chances are the torque converter is draining down. Chrysler will correct the problem by installing a check valve. (1993)

Automatic transmission: If the transmission won't upshift in cool weather, it is probably due to defective cast iron seal rings in the governor drive. (1992-94)

Engine fan noise: In warm weather, the fan makes a roaring sound. Dodge will replace the fan, the fan clutch, and, on max cooling systems, the radiator cap. (All)

Exhaust backfire: Exhaust backfire and/or a popping noise in the exhaust may be caused by a defective Powertrain Control Module. (1994-95)

Oil leak: Rear main seals on 2.5- and 4.0-liter engines are prone to leakage. To prevent future failures, Chrysler has a rubber plug available that goes in a hole above the starter that protects the rear main seal. (1996)

Oil leak: Oil leak at the filter on 3.9-, 5.2-, and 5.9-liter engines is likely due to a warped adapter plate. (1995)

Oil pump: Oil pump gear wear results in bucking and surging when the engine is warm and lack of lubrication when the engine is cold. (1992-93)

Rough idle: Because of a problem with the idle air control motor, the engine idles rough, stalls at low speeds or when decelerating, especially in warm weather. (1992-94)

Suspension noise: Front ball joints wear prematurely forcing relacement of lower control arm as well. Replacement joint with grease fitting is now available. (1990-96)

Transaxle leak: Automatic transmission fluid leaks from the speed sensor in the transmission. (1994)

Water leak: The roof seams leak water that seeps down behind the dashboard onto the floor. (1993-95)

Dec 08, 2010 | 1995 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

Rear barring an seal replaced


I'm not sure if this is the right part of your car but, are you talking about the rear seal on the engine for the crankshaft?

If so:

Rear Main Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Rear main seal installation for the 2.3L and 2.5L engines 85553306.gif
Fig. 2: Removing the rear main seal 85553307.gif
Fig. 3: Installing the rear main seal on the 2.9L engines 85553308.gif
If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work stand.
  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle, following the procedures in Section 7.
  3. On a manual shift transmission, remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc following the procedure in Section 7.
  4. Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate.
  5. Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap to cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars. Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface. To install:
  6. Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.
  7. Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft. Coat a new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep the tool, T82L-6701-A (4-cyl. engines) or T72C-6165 (6-cyl. engine) straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.
  8. Install the engine rear cover plate. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to the specifications listed in the torque chart in this section.
  9. On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and the pressure plate assembly following the procedure in Section 7.
  10. Install the transmission, following the procedure in Section 7.
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Oct 07, 2010 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

1 Answer

My car has a worn out engine rear seal how can I replace it?


This is a fun one. You can do this 2 different ways. One of which, remove the transmission and flexplate (automatic trans.) or flywheel (manual trans.) and you can loosen the rear main cap and pull the old rear main seal out and install the new one. The other way of replacing it is removing the engine and replacing the seal on an engine stand. Either way, it'll take some time to do.

Apr 04, 2010 | 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab

2 Answers

I have a 1995 Ford F250 Powerstroke Hard Auto shifting


I had the same problem on my 95. The problem was the torque converter was not unlocking. It had to be replaced.

Mar 23, 2010 | 1995 Ford F250

1 Answer

My 1994 camaro w/ 3.4L engine has an oil leak in rear of engine. It is running down both sides of the block in rear. Oil filter is wet, but not leaking, the starter and bell housing drip oil and its...


This is most likely a leak from your rear main seal. It happens and can be a pain to replace if you're a DYI kinda person without the nec. equipment.
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
  2. Remove the transmission.
  3. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch and pressure plate.
  4. Remove the flywheel assembly.
  5. Using a suitable prytool, carefully pry the old seal out.
6. Inspect the crankshaft for nicks or burrs, correct as required.
88143g59.gif Crankshaft rear main seal - 5.7L engine

To install:
  1. Clean the area and coat the seal with engine oil. Install the seal onto tool J-34686 for 3.4L engines, J 41349 for 3.8L engines or J 35621 for 5.7L engines.
  2. Install the tool (with the seal mounted to it) onto the rear of the crankshaft. Tighten the screws snugly to be sure the seal will be installed squarely over the crankshaft.
88143g60.gif Exploded view of the rear main seal installation - 3.4L engine
Click to Enlarge

  1. Tighten the wing nut on the installation tool until it bottoms out.
  2. Remove the tool from the crankshaft or rear oil seal housing, as applicable.
88143g61.gif Rear main seal and installation tool - 3.8L engine
Click to Enlarge
88143g62.gif After position the seal on the tool, install it to the crankshaft housing

  1. Install the flywheel.
  2. If equipped with a manual transmission, install the clutch and pressure plate.
  3. Install the transmission.
  4. Check the fluid levels, start the engine and check for leaks.

Dec 30, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

If you were to replace a rear main seal on a 1995 honda accord (with a vtech 4 cylinder engine) do you have to remove the transmission in order to install?


Yes, the seal has a pressed fit and is bolted on te rear of the engine, in fact all japanese cars do that, keeps them from leaking for a long time.

Jun 22, 2009 | 1995 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Automatic transmission keeps losing fluid newly installed


Sounds like it might be leaking through the Torque Converter seal. Easy fix...just sucks having to take the tranny out again.

Apr 27, 2009 | 1995 Honda Accord

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