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Hi Ronald, Get ready for a lot of work! The first thing is to clean the engine of all dirt and contaminants that may cause damage when the head id removed. When the engine is cold disconnect the battery. Remove the air cleaner ducting and housing and then drain the coolant from the radiator and engine block. The coolant drain plug on the engine block sometimes becomes corroded so be careful and if it is too tight leave it. Get yourself some masking tape and mark all the relevant electrical connections before removing them. If your engine is the type with timing gears turn it to Top Dead Center (TDC) and once set leave it. If it has a timing belt remove the front plastic timing cover and look for and identify the match marks for valve timing. If you can't see them make your own marking the TDC positions of the camshaft in relation to the cylinder head, (This may save you a lot of pain and suffering later) If the engine is diesel, identify or match mark the timing gear in relation to Crank Shaft and Cam Shaft. Remember the body of the injector pump when turned is also an adjustment so match mark the pump body to the engine. With a diesel, mark the pipes and make a sketch of where each pipe fits onto the distributor type pump. (Do not bend the pipes) If it's a petrol engine mark the position of each of the HT plug leads, remove the distributor cap and sketch the position of the rotor arm in relation to the cap. (In other words note which way it's facing. Remove the cap and the plug leads. mark all vacuum tubes for later reinstatement before disconnecting. Disconnect all electrical connections (Which you should have marked) Remove the tappet cover and clean the oil, which should be correctly taken care of. If the engine has a timing belt, loosen the tensioner bearing to its maximum adjustment and making sure that the timing marks are still aligned remove the belt. If it has a belt it will usually have overhead cam. If gears it will likely have a rocker shaft assembly and push rod operated valves. Begin to loosen these from the front and back working in to the center of the head. Loosen each bolt evenly, one turn at a time until the whole cam or rocker assembly is loose and can be removed. Keep in mind that up until this point certain valves will be open and under tension Once removed the the valves will then be fully closed. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, alternately loosening from each end working towards the center. Remove the radiator cooling hoses and ensure that bypass hoses are removed too. Make sketches of the fitting positions before removal. Closely inspect all areas where bolts and brackets may impede the removal, and if any remain, remove them. Careful inspection and recording will help you greatly during assembly. You are now ready to remove the cylinder head. Begin at the front of the engine by loosening the first bolt of the cylinder head and then go to the rear and loosen the bolt diagonally opposite. Follow the same loosening sequence working towards the center until all bolts are loosened. and then remove them. The cylinder head can now be removed. In the case of the engine being diesel powered, look at the outer edge of the gasket where you should see an indicator of the gasket thickness. This is very important when buying the replacement gasket (never reuse an old gasket) The thickness is in relation to the piston protrusion above the engine block and if the replacement is too thin, the valves will collide with the pistons during operation (which ain't very good for pistons or valves!) If the gasket is too thick the compression will not be achieved for maximum performance. I suggest that when the head is removed, after cleaning it should be taken to an engineering company for checking and if warped it should be lightly skimmed. The tightening sequence is opposite to removal, meaning begin at the center and work outwards. This applies to the cylinder head, manifolds and tappet cover. In fact not a bad idea for everything you apply a spanner or wrench to. Ps. Why do you want to take the head off? Just asking. Regards John
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is it just one click noise per push of the pedal or is it a repetitive clicking noise that gets faster as the engine speeds up? if its from the engine, it could be a warped valve making contact with the cylinder head. not a HUGE problem but causes less MPG and less power. to fix that, (assuming you know which valve is warped) youll need a lot of time, a lot of patience, a valve spring compressor (looks like a C clamp,) different socket wrench tools, possibly some screwdrivers, and maybe a couple more misc things. procedure: youd drain the oil, take off the valve cover, detach exhaust manifold from cyl head, remove the cylinder head, use the spring compressor to tighten the valve spring down to remove the old valve, then install the new one, put the head back on, reattach exhaust manifold, put the valve cover back on (might as well replace head and valve cover gaskets while you have the chance) then fill the oil back up. also if you had to remove anything above the valve cover to get to it, reinstall those as well.
If there is a COMPRESSiON leak in ur cylinder, either ur intake valve or exhaust valve is open during compression!
First check ur gap settings of push rod or valve CLEARANCE using FEELER GAUGE.
Check also ur BLOW BACK gas by opening ur OiL CAP, and run the engine, too much air from that oil inlet means ur PiSTON RiNGS are busted.
Finally, sometimes SPARK PLUG are LOOSE or threads are gone and gas scapes thru that area!
Hope that might help u out!
blue smoke is a sure sign of oil bleeding down from your valve seats (little rubber umbrellas inside the head on each valve) into or on top of the pistons after sitting over night..in most cases a good mechanic can do that repair with the cylinder head still on the car...the stalling is usually open close sensor ..TPS (throttle position sensor ) or spark plugs..both inexpensive easy fixes..GOD BLESS
no/loss of compression can be from a few different problems blown piston/piston rings[fix rebuild engine and replace piston parts ]camshaft flattened lobe [replace camshaft]valves burnt/bent carbon build up [remove head and repair/replace valves ] valve springs weak/broken[repair or replace ] head itself cracked [replace ]these are some of the reasons that u can loose compression if ur guy did compression test and determined its the head[valves ] then replace head if car is worth fixing then fix it good luck
60,000 Miles also your van is an interference engine which means if timing belt breaks will cause major engine damage ( bent cylinder head valves ) and cylinder heads will have to be remove to replace bent valves.
Hi More than likely, most of the Mazda range are identified as an interference, in other words when the timing belt breaks or slips the pistons will hit the valves, my advice change the belt and then compression test the cylinders before removing the head just in case god smiled on you,
For you to get a good look and be 100% of what it is YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE HEAD, I would more like suggest a burnt valve rather than a bent valve unless you broke the timing belt on this vehicle. Good Luck and contact if you need more help. Thanks for using FIX YA