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The gearbox in my 1993 Nissan Terrano Automatic is causing grief. When begin to drive it will not go through all the gears. After about 100 meters it does not drive. If you stop for a couple of minutes then it can be driven again. I have changed the gearbox filter, all the computers but to no avail. Could this problem be assotiated to the solenoids or other controls in the gearbox or some other issue I am not aware of. Please help.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

maklean
  • 1665 Answers

SOURCE: Automatic gearbox

How to prevent the transmission from damage
(The filter usually is screen type and can be cleaned when remove bottom cover. but this is not to be done at regular maintenance inspection.)
- Regularly check your parking space for leaks. Doesn't matter, is it the engine oil leak, power steering fluid or transmission fluid; if you discover any, get it fixed before it caused something serious.
- Once in a while check the transmission fluid level and condition. Not all cars however have the automatic transmission dipstick, in some cars, for example, in late Volkswagen models, the transmission fluid can only be checked by the dealer. Consult with your owner's manual for details. If the transmission fluid level is too low, there is a leak somewhere that needs to be fixed.
- Change the fluid as often as it said in your owner's manual or when it becomes too dark (rather brown than red) or dirty.
Also, keep in mind that an automatic transmission can not be drained completely - there is always some transmission fluid left inside the transmission (the torque converter, in the valve body, etc.) which means you only can change about %60 of the fluid at once. This is one more reason to change it more often.

- Use only the same type of the transmission fluid as specified in the owner's manual or on the dipstick. Some vehicles (e.g Dodge Caravan) are very sensitive to fluid type
- Never shift to the Reverse or Parking until the car comes to a complete stop.
- Never shift from the Parking mode when engine rpm is higher than normal idle.
- Always hold a brakes down when shifting from Parking.
- The automatic transmission can be damaged if towing with the drive wheels on the road. Always use a dolly or place powered wheels on the towing platform (if the vehicle is front wheel drive - tow it from the front leaving rear wheels on the road.
the filter

Posted on Jun 12, 2008

emissionwiz
  • 75814 Answers

SOURCE: my Nissan Sentra 2002 automatic wont move from

the problem is the park interlock safety mechanism is sticking,( keeps u from shifting out of park unless the brake is pressed) it has nohing to do with restarting the engine several times. Check and verify the brake lights work is the first thing to do.

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

donofbunbury
  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: terrano gearbox keeps jumping out of overdrive and

Nissan Terrano's have an Electronic Computer that controls the gearbox. It is hidden behind the left hand rear Speaker box, right hard up against the rear seat back rest. This system controls all functions regarding the gearbox and it's rev rates. If your vehicle is shifting back on long drives then it is possible that the computer sees any slight increase in revs as a desire to "Kickback" the gearbox to a lower gearing, hence it dropping out of overdrive. Unfortunately a gearbox specialist with a computer "Plug-in" is needed to fix this, but it is fixable. This problem should not be too expensive in comparison with a new gearbox.

Posted on Apr 15, 2010

chromapr
  • 267 Answers

SOURCE: black smoke on my nissan terrano when you put

black smoke usually indicates to much fuel being delivered. If this is the case you need to correct it soon or you will damage the catalytic convertor. What year is the vehicle and how many miles on it? Is there a check engine light on? this info would help

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

cruiser627
  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: my 1993 nissan sentra automatic stuck on first

Your governor gear is either stripped or destroyed. It's extremely easy as far as labor, beginner skill level (if you have a knowledgeable person or book/article to reference) but finding the part is a headache. Get the part before you do anything else. It's a small plastic gear (stock) and I've heard that there's a brass one available, but haven't found it yet. From the dealership, the gear alone is about $40. The governor assembly is about $200. There's 99% chance you only need the gear. I'll give you a basic walk-through of how to check, but I would strongly advise not to proceed until you have at least the gear in-hand. Also, make sure the gear is correct.

**IMPERATIVE**
The 4-speed transmission has a 16 spline gear that is about an inch and a half long, whereas the 3-speed transmission has a 19 spline gear that is about 2.5 inches long. They are NOT interchangeable.

First, get everything out of the way. Disconnect and remove your battery. There is a small fusebox bolted to the battery tray. Remove the two nuts holding this on, and separate it from the battery tray, letting it hang behind the radiator. Remove the battery tray. The air box is going to have to come out as well, so you have room to see and work. Easiest way to do this is to remove all of the hoses as far from the airbox as possible, leaving them attached to the airbox so it all comes out as one piece. There's a small vacuum line just out-of-sight, that plugs into the silencer, feel around on the firewall side, and simply unplug it. Once all of this is safely out of the way, it's time to get down to business.

In your newly-cleared work area, on the top of the transmission closer to the firewall than to you, you'll see what looks like either a black plastic, or silver (but dirty) metal, 'cap'. There is a snap-ring set just inside the ridge around the top of this, with a seal ring under it. Pry this snap-ring out carefully, unless you intend to replace it. With that out of the way, the seal ring will come right up. Using a large vice grip, or a large pair of water pump pliers, grip the cap and work it out. There's an o-ring around the bottom of this, so it make take a little back-and-forth to get it all the way out. Once you have gotten that off, there is what looks like a complex metal block underneath. This is your governor assembly, and it's actually about 10 inches long. To reiterate, this entire assembly should be around $200 from a dealership. You should be able to pull this outwith minimal effort, and the bottom is hardened plastic, so be as gentle as possible. Once removed, inspect the plastic gear on the bottom. If it's chewed up but otherwise intact, replace it and you're okay. If it's shattered and/or obviously missing pieces (which has been the case in several of the rebuilds I've done), you'll have to drain at least a quart of fluid to see into the bottom of the hole where the governor sits, and make sure there are no pieces floating around in there. I had to use a dentist's pick to get the pieces out. If you are going to replace the entire governor assembly, remove the old one and skip the next paragraph.

If you want to save a nice chunk of money, and just replace the gear:
Put the governor in a vice, and as gently as possible, hammer the holding pin out of the gear and governor shaft. Once removed, the old gear will slide right off. Slide the new gear on, put the pin in place, and you're good to go.

Slide the new (or newly rebuilt) governor gear assembly back into the transmission, making sure it seats flush. Replace the cap you removed, the seal ring, then the snap-ring. Put the airbox back in, ensuring all of the hoses and clamps are back in place - especially that pesky one hidden behind the silencer box. Replace your battery tray, the fusebox thereto attached, and your battery and hold-down. Replace any transmission fluid you had to drain, start the car and let it run for 5-10 minutes to warm up the fluid. With your foot on the brake, manually shift it through all the gears to ensure the fluid gets into all of those little spaces. Put it back in park, turn the car off, check the fluid again, and add as needed.

Posted on Dec 21, 2010

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