I've had to replace the sending unit for my fuel pump. Once I got everything installed I tried starting it. No dice. It will crank and crank and act like it wants to start, but won't. The fuel pump is activating but and continues to run after I've stopped cranking, but it is acting like it isn't getting enough fuel. Please help....
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Re: 1996 Suburban problem starting
Ko how much gas ya got ? pop a fuel line real quick or a service port at the engine. is there fuel ?
crack the line at the fuel filter (might as well replace it while yer there) does fuel even make it to the filter ? no ? mm sounds like a come back to me. you need to QC your work remove the fuel pump again (lol) and make sure you have not cracked or broke anything. then make sure all your lines are attached properly with no cracks along the way. make sure the fuel pump sock is clean. good luck
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Do you know for sure that the fuel pump failed or do you have a bad relay? If the fuel pump relay is good no you don't need to replace it. The fuel pump unit comes with the sending unit and a sock filter. I would replace the inline fuel filter when you replace the pump. In line fuel filters need to be replaced every 36000 miles. If that filter starts to plug up it makes the pump work harder which leads to premature failure.
Isuzu Rodeo Fuel pump and Sending UnitIdeally, it should take you about 2 hours. Disconnect the negative side of the battery in the engine compartment and press on the brake pedal several times to get rid of any electrical discharge. I belive it's a 10mm wrench to disconnect the battery. First you need to jack up the side of the car where the fuel pump and fuel tank is located. This is usually on the driver side. I changed the fuel sending unit on a 1999 and 2001 Rodeo and the tanks were on the driver sides. The fuel sending unit on Rodeo's goes bad and usually needs to be changed. This will cause you to get trouble code 463 amonng others which I had as well as your fuel gauge not working. It's really hard to find just the sending unit by itself but keep looking around and you can find it. It's a lot cheaper than buying the whole fuel pump. I found it here. http://ahi-parts.mobi/contact.html YOU SHOULD HAVE SOME MECHANICAL EXPERIENCE BEFORE UNDERTAKING SUCH A JOB. I would say any grade D+ or above mechanic can do it. BEFORE YOU GET STARTED MAKE SURE THAT THE FUEL TANK IS NEARLY EMPTY BECAUSE THE EXTRA WEIGHT WILL MAKE IT VERY DIFFICULT TO REINSTALL THE FUEL TANK AGAIN AS WELL AS IT'S REMOVAL. Take out the 5 or 6 bolts and one nut that are holding up the tank to the frame of the car. Get under there and see which bolts are holding up the tank and which ones are just holding the tank together. We're just interested in the bolts that are holding up the tank to the car. Make sure that you put a jack under the tank before removing the bolts so you can lower the tank slowly to avoid any damage to the tank. Once the bolts have been removed, slowly lower the tank with the jack. Not all the way because you have some lines that need to be undone. Enough to feel that the tank will not go down any further by itself. First you need to remove the tank filler tube/hose. This can be done by unscrewing the clamp that is holding the line to the tank. I believe it's a 10mm socket or a philips screw driver. It's a tight squeeze. The hose is located at the back of the tank. Next disconnect another hose that is much smaller from the tank. I Don't know what it's for but can easily be removed by pinching the fastener that is holding it in place, you may need some plyers, again its in the rear of tank and it's a tight squeeze. You may need to use a crow bar to gently push both hoses off the tank, once the clamps are off. Next disconnect the electrical connections on top of the pump. Use a screw driver to gently unhook the side clamps and push out. Gently. Lower the tank a little more. You will notice that 2 fuel lines come out of the fuel pump. These are hooked to fuel lines attached to the frame. These need to be disconnected from the lines on the frame. There should be some clamps by the frame of the car that can be taken out. You might need to use some force to disconned these lines but be gentle. Some plyers will come in handy as the plastic tabs usually fly out over time. Keep a record of which line goes to which line as you will need to reconnect the same lines. Now that everything that was attached to the tank and the vehicle has been removed the tank should come out really easy. Once on the ground you will notice that there is a metal ring kind of hooked onto the top of the tank to hold the pump down. You will need to use a screwdriver and a hammer to undo or make this ring turn counter clockwise to undo it, but first clear out any dust or debri from the top of the tank or fuel pump. You don't want anything to go into the tank once you take out the pump. When the ring is finally unhooked from the top of the fuel pump than the fuel pump can be removed very easily. Just remove the ring and pull up on the pump slowly as it may have gas in it. You will need to clear the float and filter from the bottom of the pump so be gentle and take it out slowly. Install the new pump and reinsert the metal ring. You should use a new gasket before installing the new pump. Removing the fuel lines from the old fuel pump, you will need special tools sold at any parts store. You can take your old and new pump to the store and they can show you how to take out the lines after you buy the special tools. Should cost you around $10. This tool is also good for replacing A/C line. If your replacing the pump, than the sending unit should already be attached so go down to step II below to continue. If your just replacing the sending unit, than you don't need to take out the lines but do disconnect them from the frame makes things easier but it's not really necessary. Once you have the fuel pump out you will notice the sending unit on the side of the pump. Notice that the little metal fingers have all been eaten away or corroded away. Compare to the new sending unit and you'll see why it had to be changed. Anyways....there is a little clamp holding the sending unit to the pump. Gently, gently pinch these together and push out. Once that is out the sending unit itself has some hooks that need to be pinched to push out. Disconnect the float from the sending unit and attach it to the new one. Once that is done, install the new sending unit in it's place and reinsert the clamp holding it in place.
The fuel pump is in the gas tank, the best way to do this is to get some friends and remove the bed from the frame. There is i believe 8 bolts that hold the bed to the frame, and don't forget to remove the hardware to the gas tank filler neck. Once the bed is off the frame, you can get to the fuel tank. Disconnect the wire harness and might as well replace the harness since there only $12.00 last i looked, disconnect the fuel line and return line. Remove the fuel pump retainer ring and lift up on the fuel pump sending unit. To install replace the rubber O ring and oil it before installing the new fuel pump sending unit. Install the fuel sending unit retaining ring, gas lines, new wire harness, and filler tube. Good lime also to check the hose to the EVAP since you can inspect them, look for any dry rot to the vacuum lines and replace if needed. Reinstall the bed and use lock tight to the bed bolts or replace them with stainless bolts. Good luck and hope this helps, oh and you might as well change the fuel filter while your have the bed off. The other way is to drop the gas tank which means draining the tank and raising the truck.
turn the key to the on pos. and listen for a huming in the rear of the car as your fuel pump is in the tank. if you don't hear it then i would say that the pump is bad and need to be replace, but if you hear it it could be weak . try takeing off the air cleaner and spray some quick start down the intake and try starting it . if it start i would replace the pump . very easy to replace.