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Some clutches can be fearsomely difficult to bleed successfully. In cases of difficulty it is worth trying reverse bleeding...
Connect the clutch bleeder and the nearest brake bleeder together with some well-fitting tubing, open both bleed screws and have an assistant pump the brake pedal. Make certain the brake reservoir is kept topped up and remove excess fluid from the clutch reservoir before it overflows.
Half a dozen pumps usually is sufficient, hold the pedal down and close both bleed screws.
If you have a hydraulic clutch (identified by a second smaller master cylinder next to the one for the brakes) You may have a leak in that system or the clutch master may be bypassing. If that's the case, you will need to replace the clutch master and check that system for other leaks or seepage. If your clutch is operated by mechanical means (either rods and other hardware or a cable) and that cannot be further adjusted then yes, very likely you need a complete clutch assembly.(unless cable type if the cable has stretched) Most often though when a clutch assembly is worn, you will also have some noticeable slippage there when going up hills or accelerating. A complete clutch replacement should include a new pressure plate, new disc, new throwout bearing and a new crank pilot bearing. In most cases the flywheel should also be re-surfaced. An honest competent shop can give you better specific advice...I can't because I'm here and you are there. Before having the job done, I'd definitely have someone give you a second opinion (if you do that don't mention what the other diagnosis was). Any specific questions you may have later, just ask!! Good luck!
If it is a hydraulic clutch, find the reservoir and top it up with fluid and then you will have to find the bleeder screw and bleed the clutch. It is the same process as bleeding brakes. Not sure on these vehicles where the bleed screw is but in most cases it is on the transmission. It can be easily found if you follow the line from the clutch master cylinder to the transmission it should be close to where the line goes into the transmission.
I have not tried myself but see if the link below will work for your case. It is not the same model as you have but most vehicles have the same components for the non electronic parts.
Bleeder screw should be somewhere on the slave cylinder, generally somewhere above the centerline of the unit. (unless someone snapped it off. If that's the case, sometimes you can drill it out, but this takes a lot of skill mixed with some luck. (You can't damage the threads at all, and if you go too deep you will damage the sealing surface). Therefore better to replace it.