Question about 1998 Ford Taurus

3 Answers

No power/ won't turn over.

The car was running a little funny when I was driving home. (Sounding like it would turn off if I didn't have my foot on the gas) I got it home but the next day it wouldn't turn over. There was no power at all. No lights, trunk won't open. I tried jumping it and that didn't work at all. Any ideas?

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  • travis dyer Jan 25, 2013

    well if you dont have a volt meter... the spark should be more blue than red..

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3 Answers

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  • 19 Answers

Im not an expert, but holding a plug wire ist going to help at all, but maybe a check on voltage in battery would do a better job, simple volt meter ,or maybe charge battery?, please remove ground cable first, just in case you have a drain on battery, then check voltage reg, or alternater, with one is built in the other, charge on ten amps a hour or so will give you a better idea, NOT and expert again

Posted on Jan 24, 2013

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  • 8 Answers

Could be alot of things.. try the fuel filter... but could be the fuel pump..hope the tank is closer to empty if you have to drop it..... another thought is make sure your battery is hot. if it was the alternator could of been charging just enough to get you home.. probably not it though. turn on the lights and you will know that real quick.. remember you have to spark and fuel to make it run.. pull the coil wire and stick a screw driver in it.. lay it close to metal and have someone turn over the engine. if it will turn over. or have your buddy hold the coil wire and you will know if you have spark...lol

Posted on Jan 22, 2013

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Check your battery AND the battery cables for extreme corrosion issues, also, how old is the battery? the alternator may not be charging the battery enough(should be producing about 14.2 or more volts as the alternator needs a couple of volts itself to operate properly). you might need to replace your alternator. good luck.

Posted on Jan 22, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: car was running fine, stopped

Was the anti-theft system activated? Mine did that and had to be taken in to Ford. As a result of an immobilized engine my battery ended up being drained...... $225 later (was not covered by extended warranty :( ) my car finally was fixed... now my upper motor mount needs replacing

Posted on Aug 19, 2008

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SOURCE: 2001 ford escape won't start

immobilizer has kicked in

Posted on Feb 24, 2009

toneman2121
  • 775 Answers

SOURCE: my 99 taurus was running just fine. then the next

the battery light is on due to the engine not starting. there are too many things that could go wrong to diagnose without more info. does the it crank but won't start or does it not crank at all?

Posted on Mar 20, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for your help. It was the starter & we got it replaced for the 2nd time. Thanks again!!"

pctech1
  • 1940 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 96 Ford

It will start when cold, and after driving and then parking, the starter will not turn over? Replace your starter/solenoid.

WARNING: WHEN SERVICING THE STARTER MOTOR (11002) OR PERFORMING OTHER ENGINE COMPARTMENT WORK NEAR THE STARTER MOTOR (11001) , BE AWARE THAT THE HEAVY GAUGE BATTERY INPUT LEAD AT THE STARTER SOLENOID (11390) IS "ELECTRICALLY HOT" AT ALL TIMES. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT BATTERY GROUND CABLE (14301) BEFORE SERVICING STARTER MOTOR .

2.0L Engine Starter Removal

  1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
  2. Remove engine intake air resonator and air box.
  3. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and mass air flow (MAF) sensor.
  4. Remove three starter motor retaining bolts and ground wire.
  5. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  6. Remove integral connector retaining nuts and wires from starter solenoid.
  7. Disconnect the knock sensor.
  8. Remove the axle shaft bearing bracket bolts and position the bracket aside.
  9. Remove the starter motor.
Installation
NOTE: When installing lower starter motor retaining bolts, be sure to install ground cable.
  1. Position starter motor to transaxle and loosely install lower retaining bolt.
  2. Install axle shaft bearing bracket. Tighten to 21 Nm (15 lb-ft).
  3. Connect knock sensor.
  4. Install integral connector retaining nuts. Tighten B-terminal retaining nut to 11 Nm (97 lb-in). Tighten S-terminal retaining nut to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
  5. Lower vehicle to floor.
  6. Install starter motor retaining bolts and ground wire. Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
  7. Install engine intake air resonator and air box.
  8. Connect the IAT and MAF.
  9. Connect battery ground cable.
2.5L Engine Starter Removal
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve hose from the intake manifold.
  3. Remove the IAC valve hose locator from the upper radiator hose.
  4. Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hoses from the air cleanter outlet tube.
  5. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) and mass air flow (MAF) sensor electrical connectors.
  6. Disconnect the air cleaner inlet tube from the air cleaner housing and the outlet tube from the throttle body.
  7. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  8. Remove the air cleaner housing support bracket.
  9. CAUTION: Do not carry an open flame of any type when working on or near an open fuel system. The fuel system remains under pressure for long periods of time after engine shutdown. The fuel pressure must be relieved before performing any service to the fuel system.
  10. Remove the protective service valve cap and connect the Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) Fuel Pressure Gauge T80L-9974-B to the fuel pressure service valve, located on the fuel injector rail. Slowly open the valve and relieve the fuel system pressure. Remove the gauge and install the protective service valve cap.
  11. Remove the safety clips and disconnect the fuel line couplings using disconnect tools D87L-9280-A (for 3/8-inch lines) and D87L-9280-B (for 1/2 inch lines). Install protective caps and position the fuel lines out of the way.
  12. Remove the transaxle selector cable bracket retaining bolts and position the bracket (with cable attached) aside.
  13. Disconnect the starter motor solenoid electrical connectors. Secure the battery cable harness and the heater hoses aside.
  14. If equipped, remove the starter motor support bracket.
  15. Remove the starter motor.
Installation
  1. Install the starter motor. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
  2. If equipped, install the starter motor support bracket. Tighten the retaining bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Tighten the retaining nuts to 17 Nm (13 lb-ft).
  3. Connect the positive battery cable and solenoid harness to the starter motor solenoid. Tighten the battery cable retaining nut to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Tighten the solenoid terminal retaining nut to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
  4. Install the transaxle selector cable bracket. Tighten the bolts to 20 Nm (15 lb-in).
  5. NOTE: Inspect all O-ring seals and garter springs for damage, prior to assembly. If either O-ring is damaged, both O-rings must be replaced. Replace the O-rings or garter springs only with the appropriate replacement parts. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil, prior to assembly.
  6. Remove the protective caps and connect the fuel line couplings. Install the safety clips.
  7. Install the air cleaner housing support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
  8. Connect the air cleaner housing to the air cleaner inlet tube and the outlet tube to the throttle body. Install the PCV hoses to the air cleaner outlet tube. Connect the IAC valve hose to the intake manifold and securely tighten the retaining clamp. Install the IAC valve hose locator to the upper radiator hose. Connect the IAT and MAF sensor electrical connectors.
  9. NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 mi) or more to relearn the strategy.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable.

Posted on May 18, 2011

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Ford Explorer stalls while driving. As long

vacum leak or idle air controll

Posted on May 28, 2011

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