Question about 1999 Ford Expedition

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Heater blows cold air - 1999 Ford Expedition

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A few things can cause this. First start by checking your antifreeze level. Note: Some vehicles have a specific way to vent air from the engine while filling antifreeze - normally a little petcock on the engine by the thermostat housing. This is important, if there is air trapped in the upper part of the engine, it never actually pumps any antifreeze into the heater core.



There are two smaller hoses that run from the engine to the firewall. One of these hoses should get nice and toasty - almost too hot to touch - if it is working properly.


The next thing to check for is a vacuum valve in line with the heater hoses. It may or may not be present. This valve closes when you select AC and opens when you select Heat. In most cases the diaphragm inside this valve cracks or tears, and the valve no longer moves. This can also be caused by a vacuum leak elsewhere on the vehicle.


The next thing I would check for is if the heater doors are actually moving inside the dash. Jump inside the vehicle, turn the key to ON while the engine is off. This way you may be able to hear the door moving, if not you should still be able to feel a change in air circulation. If you cant identify any changes you may have a bad heater/ac door actuator.

If all that seems okay, then we might need to turn some bolts to find the problem. The next thing on my list is to check to see if the thermostat is actually closing. If it does not close the antifreeze will circulate freely in the system, and cool the engine down to the point that you will not feel any heat. Normally an easy repair, and I have seen it many times in the past.

One last thing comes to mind, and that is rather unusual. That vehicle has a clutch fan. The idea behind a clutch fan is that it is supposed to spin faster (More friction inside the clutch) when the engine is hot, and slower (Less friction inside the clutch) when the engine is cold. I have only replaced maybe 5 of these in all my days, but I have seen it happen where they will lock up, and spin full speed all the time.

Lemme know if any of this helps, if not, let me know. Ill be glad to help you further.

P.S. Being a Ford, I remember them having a gauge that reads
N O R M A L across the gauge It should stay around the R-M area when hot.

Hope this helps - Mike

Posted on Jan 22, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

vmhreha
  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: air condition/heater

sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:

  1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
  1. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:

  2. the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
  • the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
  • the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
  • the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
  • the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
  • the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
  1. Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
  2. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
  3. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
  4. Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
  5. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

jamaicanmech
  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: My 1999 Ford F150 Heater only blows out cold air

guys have you checked for a vaccum leak????? there is a little plastic ball with a vaccum line going to it that controls the outside air coming in. check for a leak in this line

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: heater is blowing but its cold air not hot air 2000 expedition

Make sure the heater core is in the open position by using the shut off valve and turning it to open. next, you may have a malfunction in the direction door the directs the air flow in the dash. a lever may have become lose or separated. may be a bad servo motor not directing the door to move to the heater position. i would start by checking that shut off valve first on the heater core.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

ifixgms
  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Heater blows cold air.

heater cores clog in taurus. way to know is this--engine fully hot--heat on reach down to the fire wall and grab hold of one of the heater hoses where it hooks to the core--one should be real hard to keep hold of because its that hot. If the other is close to the same the core is not clogged. But if the other is cold to the touch its clogged. You can remove the hoses and shoot garden hose water in one side or the other and break it loose usually

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

Mike258
  • 1498 Answers

SOURCE: my heater only blows cold air-'98 ford explorer

Hi Bri,

That is usually the first symptom of low coolant. Not enough water in the system to circulate through the heater core. Has it been running hot?

Check the coolant level in the radiator

Best regards,
Mike

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

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Air conditioner blows air but not cold air http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/07/air-conditioner-blows-air-but-not-cold.html

------------
Car overheats and Air blows hot at idle? http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-overheats-and-air-blows-hot-at-idle.html

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-----------
Heat blows cold on drivers side and hot on passenger side? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/heat-blows-cold-on-drivers-side-and-hot.html---------- Hot air on the driver's side vents only? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/hot-air-on-drivers-side-vents-only.html

--------------
2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser: A/C Blows Warm? http://whoisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/06/2005-chrysler-pt-cruiser-ac-blows-warm.html

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1992 Toyota Camry: A/C Control light Flashing and A/C not Blowing Cold? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/04/1992-toyota-camry-ac-control-light.html

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------------
These will help.
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To troubleshoot this types of problem,click the link below :---
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--------
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http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/engine-overheats-and-heater-blowing.html

---------
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