Question about Cars & Trucks
By "won't start" i assume you mean won't turn over. first, check all the connections at the battery. a "little loose" can be all you need to produce your symptom. if the connections are good, and there isn't any obvious degrading of the cables, you could have a problem in the starter itself. Does it click and engage but doesn't go anywhere? that could be either electrical or mechanical. check the engine oil. make sure the engine will turn. lastly for now, how do you know that the battery is good? I have seen many batteries go for no apparent reason. will keep the lights on until you go to start then bam...nothing. if you jump the battery from another car or jumper box does that make a difference?
Posted on Jan 21, 2013
How can anyone help you with out knowing what our working on..
Posted on Jan 21, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2007 chevy cobalt ls won't
Ignition relay or fuse could be the problem. When you turn the key to start do you hear a fuel pump kicking on and or do you have spark when you hot wire the starter (I know it's hard to check while trying to start it)? You can email me back and I might be able to pinpoint it more.
Posted on Jun 06, 2011
The first thing you need to do is stop wasting your money by replacing parts. Then get a volt-ohm meter and a test light to test the circuits between the battery, the alternator, the ignition switch, the starter relay and the voltage regulator. (a.k.a. Charging System Circuits)
To start, the "B+" or "BATT" terminal on the alternator (large black wire) MUST have a solid, direct connection to the battery. Check for the proper voltage here. Then, the red wire on the alternator at the "F2" terminal should be HOT at all times. If not, you probably still have a bad fuse link that you missed. The "F1" terminal on the alternator (Light Green wire) is known as your "FIELD" wire. It comes from the "IG" terminal at the voltage regulator. It should be hot any time the key is in the ON position. If not, your voltage regulator is not working or your ignition switch is not providing power to the regulator. Finally, The "F" terminal (Red wire) at the regulator should be hot any time the ignition switch is in the ON position. This actually gets it's power from the starter relay, which gets its power from the ignition switch.
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What Else Could Be Wrong?
My Car Won't Turn Over
Posted on Jun 12, 2011
SOURCE: 1994 BMW 740i with 222,000
If it does turn over and electrical works, then the problem is unlikely the battery. You can try jump starting. If it cranks when jump-starting it may be a weak battery, starter motor or alternator, but I don't think that this is the problem.
Check if there is spark on all cylinders. Do a code scanning (this car is OBD1, you will need to do the scan at the dealer place or to find a BMW OBD1 tool- Universal OBD2 scanner will not work on a 1994 BMW). If the codes return misfire or mixture related errors check fuel pressure, check sensors and parts that determine the mixture (MAF/MAP, AIT, O2 sensors, IAC and EGR system), check the vacuum system for leaks and check the crank sensor.
Posted on Aug 08, 2011
Is the security light on or blinking?If not then do you have power to the starter.You can check this with a test light.You should have power when you turn the key to start.The test light should light up.Should be the small wire.I believe it is purple in color.If the security light is on then you will have to get the codes to see what is causing the no start.Hope this helps.Good luck.
Posted on Dec 07, 2011
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