Question about 1993 Toyota Camry V6
My car has been idling rough every once and a while but corrects itself when it warms up- my machanic has had it since last Tuesday and he thought it was an ignition problem but its not and they dont have equipment to test for that kind of problem as they dont do internal engine work
People working at home have test equipment
to test for internal engine wear
Get that vehicle out of that shop & go elsewhere
Why would a shop have a vehicle for a week
to tell you nothing,silly
Posted on Jan 22, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here are step-by-step instructions for the removal and re-installation of your ignition cylinder on your Toyota. Hope this sheds some light on the subject and solves your problem. Have a great day!
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
SOURCE: 1984 Toyota tercel wagon
Although this isn"t a proper fix, and may affect emissions, I ran accross this problem on a friend's 87 2wd wagon.
There is a dashpot that controls a lever the Idle set screw is on, I am guessing it is a decel valve that closes butterfly when coasting in gear. I never looked at a manual to figure out what controls the vacuum valve that is on the passenger side of the engine compartment, but if you disconect the vacuum line and plug it that lever will not back off and idle will remain where you set it with the adjustment screw.
Make sure the engine is warmed up and not on a fast idle cam before adjusting idle.
The car is a 5 speed, I not sure if automatic cars are the same.
The car idles fine now and still run's great and gets 37+ MPG with 240000 miles!
If you want to fix it properly you would have to diagnose why that dashpot is being actuated at idle
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
Get a T belt from toyota. It has 3 white lines on
it and and arrow mark. 2 lines are solid and one is broken. Put the
arrow facing away from the engine. The cam gears have a dot punched
into them near a certain tooth. This is where the solid white lines
will line up with. The crank gear will have a dot also. It will line up
at 90 degrees from the top, towards the front of the car. This is where
the broken line will match up with. With the belt installed with all
lines on their proper dots and arrow away from the engine, you valve
timming is correct.
Of course you need to remove and compress the tensioner also. I assume you know this already since you didn't ask.
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
NO U HAVE TO REMOVE THE IAC TO CLEAN.DO U KNOW WHET CODE THE LIGHT IS SETTING?
Posted on May 05, 2009
Hello. You have posted an excellent question.
The code 55 you are getting, in Toyota terms, as as follows:
"No number one knock sensor signal to the ECU fo four crank revulutions under these 2 conditions: Coolant temperature 140 degrees F or more; Engine speed between 1600 and 5200 RPM."
This indicates a failed (or a loose) knock sensor on the Right Bank of the engine. Since the knock sensor is basically a piezo-electric crystal, not continuity test can be performed with the intake manifold installed.
You can check the continuity form the Knock Sensor wires to the ECM, but, this may not prove useful to you.
Unfortunately, you are going to have to pull the intake, and check the knock sensor wiring integrity. If the connector is good, and the sensor is tight, I would suggest replacing the sensor. Actually, if you were in my shop, I would suggest replacing them both, as the whole intake will have to come off if the other sensor fails. Better to replace them both at once, than to pull the intake again.
We here at FixYa hope that this helps you out, and saves you some future reoair dollars. Thanks for choosing FixYa for advice.
Posted on Jan 08, 2010
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