Question about 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Around 60000 miles or 100000 klms is pretty fair. It may last longer but a change will be cheaper than the resultant damage if it breaks. REplace both seals ,all tensioners as well as they do just as much waork as the belt
Posted on Jan 21, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2004 jeep grand cherokee
Are you using the seatbelts?
The airbag light is on because there is a problem with the system.
PLEASE do not try to fix the airbag problem yourself.
You could accidently activate the bag and get hurt.
Posted on Oct 31, 2008
Not sure why the question is even being asked, but you can change the oil yourself in about 15 minutes; simply jack the front end, put a pan under the oil drain plug, open the plug, let it drain, put the plug back in, and add new oil.
Take it to any outlet that changes oil (Wal-Mart, for example, charges about $18, some places charge as little as $15) and they'll include a new filter because otherwise you're running new oil through an old filter, which defeats the idea of the oil change. You can ask them not to put on a new filter, but you'll still pay the base price.
My question is, why would you not want a new filter if you're changing oil.
Let me know if this answers your question.
Posted on Dec 10, 2008
Check this link & scroll down to your engine. Click on picture to expand.
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
If you have the same pulley arrangement that most 4.0 engines have that pulley is an idler not a tensioner. Your power steering pump has a pivot bolt, and a slide under the pump. You adjust belt tension using the pump.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
I'm going to guess since you didn't mention which fluid...Transmission?
First find out which unit you have (usually an id tag on it somewhere ) Then look up what kind and how much fluid in your owners manual (usually around four quarts...unit holds more but you can't remove it from the pan) Remove all pan bolts and lower pan. (some units have a drain plug, use it first if you have one ) you will see the filter attached to the valve body. remove it and install the new one, Make sure all gasket material is removed from pan and trans. Clean any metal etc from pan and internal magnet (there is always some in there but should not be a ton of it) Then put pan and gasket back. Make sure you can turn each fastener easily to make sure they are not cross threaded and only tighten them after they are all in there. Bolts do not have to be tightened down like they never should be removed again (snug then a little bit more)tighten in an X pattern not a circle.Replace about half of the fluid with car off, then put in remainder while running. Put your foot on the brake and shift to reverse then drive a few times then check fluid level.Low is bad, a tiny bit (less than half inch) over is OK.
Drive for a short ride, check again for leaks and re-tighten if any are found.
If trans was exceptionally dirty and yours has a drain plug, I recommend that you use a generic oil on the first change, then in a week, drain oil again and re-fill with good brand name stuff. and perhaps a bottle of lucas conditioner.
Posted on May 14, 2009
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