I was installing subs in my trunk and i got the wires right except the turn on lead and a wire sparked and now my radio dosent work and neither does my heat and ac and i checked all the fuses i dont know waht is wrong
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
does the power antenna sense the power lead of the radio . Did you somehow disconnect a sensor wire from the radio power wire when installing the new radio.
This might be the cause of the power antenna not going up when radio switched on ?
If you have a little electronic know how... it can be a blown capacitor in the speaker. If you find it, solder a new one in and turn the volume down in the future. And look around for any signs of burnt insulation. Trunk amps are notorious for being insufficiently wired for power.
to create a spark you must have had power connected somewhere. Did you have your radio turned on when you connected? if yes you may have blown the amp in the radio. If no then you have other issues with wiring and possible damage. It's one of those instances where I'd need to be there to diagnose it. Start by double checking the stereo is working, check its wiring is correct try each speaker connection in turn. If the stereo works and all the outputs work then double check the amps wiring and try a normal speaker connected to it. You must get the picture by now, you need to identify the source of the fault. to help you better I'd need a wiring diagram.
THIS IS A COPY OF A POST I SUBMITTED TO SOMEONE WHO HAD A SIMULAR QUESTION REGARDING AN ALPINE BRAND RADIO ISTTALLATION. THE PROCESS IS THE SAME NO MATTER WHAT BRAND THE AFTERMARKET RADIO IS.
Go to the store and buy a mounting kit and wiring harness adapter that are for your car. There are alot to choose from and most are universal and come with instructions. You can get these at wal-mart or best buy. The mounting kit is meant to fill in the empty space left by the new aftermarket radio (your alpine). The alpine will have a metal sleeve around it. take this off and put it in the mounting bracket so it is flush. The sleeve will have little triangle shaped tabs on it. Bend these out so the sleeve cant fall out of the bracket or someone will be able to pull out your radio. Remove your stock radio by pulling off the trim around the radio. This is held on by clips, so be careful. There will be a couple of screws holding in the radio. Remove these and pull the radio out. Behind the radio there will be 1 or 2 wiring harnesses plugged into the radio. Unplug these. Then attach the wiring harness adapters you bought. These plug into the stock harness and have wires at the other end that are labeled. Wire the alpine wiring harness into the harness adapters that you plugged into the stock harness. If you want to you can unplug the harness from the alpine and wire it to the harness adapter before plugging it into the stock harness. The wiring diagram should be on the radio. If not the colors are pretty common. RED = SWITCHED PWR LEAD (IGNITION) ORANGE = ILLUMINATION BLACK = GND YELLOW = BATTERY LEAD GREY = FNT SPKR RIGHT(+) GREY/BLACK STRIPE = FNT SPKR RIGHT(-) WHITE = FNT SPKR LEFT (+) WHITE/BLACK STRIPE = FNT SPKR LEFT (-) VIOLET = REAR SPKR RIGHT (+) VIOLET/BLACK STRIPE = REAR SPKR RIGHT (-) GREEN = REAR SPKR LEFT (+) GREEN/BLACK STRIPE = REAR SPKR LEFT (-) BLUE = PWR ANTENNA LEAD BLUE/WHITE STRIPE = REMOTE TURN ON LEAD(FOR SUBWOOFER AMPLIFIER) There may be RCA jack inputs in the back and these are for the subwoofer amp. There will be a large black cable in the back and this is the antenna wire. Plug in the antenna wire from the back of the stock radio here. Yu may or may not need an adapter for this depending on the size difference between the wire and the hole it plugs into. **Please note: if your car has a "premium" sound system that comes stock with an amplifier you will need to attach the power antenna lead from the alpine to the remote turn on lead on the harness adapter. If not when you turn on the radio/cd it will not turn on the stock amplifier and the speakers will not work. I found this out with my 99 dodge avenger which has an Infinity stock radio. You can pop the trunk and look up at the back dash and see the small amplifier. Once the radio is wired and the mounting bracket is installed, connect the harness adapter as well as the antenna wire. The new wiring harness adapter makes the wiring a little longer so you may have to stuff them back a little bit. Connect the harness from the alpine back into the back of the radio and slide the head unit into the metal sleeve until you hear a click. Before sucuring the mounting bracket and putting the trim back on it is a good idae to try the radio out so if there is something wrong you dont have to disassemble it again. When you buy the harness and bracket it will say on the packaging "nissan 84-94" or "Honda 83-99" or something similar. Look on the back for a complete list of compatable models
2000 Ford Expedition Car Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Purple
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Black/Pink
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Green
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Blue/Black
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6′ x 8′
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Red
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6′ x 8′
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Doors
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Blue/Black
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Purple/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
Make sure that the battery contact surfaces (connections) are clean and secure. Radio should be wired so that it turns off when the key is off (except clock memory circuit) Power must come from a "clean" source, not "tapped" into anything that has a computer or module controller in it.(best source is original power lead for radio, right in harness)
the cd player is bad and you can hook up subs through a rca hook up that you can hook to your speaker wires in the trunk the adapter is like 20 bucks at radio shack or local sound installer or buy an after market cd player cause yours will never work again and run rca's off the back of the radio to your trunk
Hello, I have a 2000 ES300 and while the body style is different believe the newer model still has the rear deck mountedsub-woofer that you are referring to. The process of removing this speaker would start off the same as if you were going to replace the third brake light also located in this housing. Using a flathead screwdriver work your way around prying/popping up all four corners of the speaker grill covering the speaker that have the retainer clips. Once you disengage the clips work/maneuver the grill up and towards you gently and it should slide out. The bulb for the third brae light will be attached to this speaker grill, disconnect the snap wire from the bulb and you should have a clear visual of the speaker and the four bolthead screws securing it. Remove these screws and your almost home free. The next part might be slightly more difficult. If the speaker s simply connected by a clipped on wiring harness, just detach.On my 2000 ES300 i have the pioneer system(Not Nakimichi) and the 2 wires (one black, and one red) are soldered directly to the speaker. You can take a soldering iron(maybe a battery or gas powered one unless you have an inverter) and remelt the solder to remove the wires or you can elect to simply cut the wires. If you choose to cut them make sure you cut them as close as possible to the soldered joints so you have plenty of wire left to install the replacement speaker.Then install replacement either soldering or using crimp clamps and reassemble. ( Note if you simply want to add a aftermarket amplified sub-woofer you don't need to remove the sub-woofer out of the housing. You can tap into the wire leads and run it directly to the amplifier. Just cut one of the wires leading to the stock sub-woofer so it doesn't also come on and potentially blow while the radio is on. This will also prevent any bass humming when the radio is shut off but the aftermarket amplifier is still on because once one of the wires to the stock sub-woofer is disconnected or cut it breaks the circuit. Hope this helps.
from the rc converter i connected to the rear speakers taking both positive (left and right) to the positive on the factory speakers, then done the same with the negative (left and right) to the negative of the factory speakers. i connected with a quick connect. then from the converter to the amp using rc's. since my battery is in the trunk, the only wire i had to run through the car is the remote wire from the radio to my amp and then my subs to my amp.