When Accelorating the engine chugs and acts as if it's starving
I've changed the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor and upstream O2 sensor. The Egr value is giving a bad reading, but I just can't pin down the problem. I thought about removing the Cat., but don't know if that will fix anything.
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Re: When Accelorating the engine chugs and acts as if...
ASE mechanic here:
Try running engine with o2 sensors removed. if runs different suspect cats, and or install vacuum pump on egr, if egr is ok then motor rpm shall decrease with more vacuum if egr is not working there would be no affect on engine rpm, Keep me posted
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It shoudn't be. Your oxygen sensors detect the oxygen in the engine. A misfire can be a few things, such as spark plugs/coils, wires, distributor cap and rotor, cam sensor, crank sensor, ecm. I would start with a tune up. If it has been more then 75,000 miles since you changed the plugs and wires, it could be that. Has it been acting up, such as hesitations, stalling when you slow down or stop?
Try disconnecting the upstream O2 sensor(s). If the sputtering stops replace the O2 sensor(s). Mine was faulty and stuttering too and no check engine light or code was thrown. After unplugging the O2 sensor and monitoring for a week with no issue I had it replaced for $100 - $150 at a local shop.
In reading what you've already done, I would suggest a Compression Test along with a vacuum gauge hooked up to the intake manifold. It may be that you're burning oil through your exhaust system in the catalytic converter. I've seen this with leaking or inoperative turbo-chargers. Pull all of your spark plugs, marking them as to what cylinder they went in with a Sharpie and if worn, replace them. Check the distributor cap & rotor button for wear or cross-firing. A Haynes Manual for your vehicle is available through most part stores which is truly effective for your DIYer. Bad plug wires can send unburned gases down through both O2 Sensors and the Catalyst. You may also want to check the plug wires and the coil(s). A fast way of checking plug wires is to grab all of them with your hand with the vehicle running and if you get "zapped"...you need spark plug wires. Remember, the codes you pull are just a general starting point as to where to start your diagnostics, not the exact problem itself. The computer doesn't monitor the mechanical aspect of your engine nor the fuel supply. The computer will take this as a given, so don't forget that when testing that it could be a compression problem or fuel problem, but as I first said...an oil leak fouling your exhaust system such as an inoperative EGR valve or oil leak on the exhaust side of the valve train.
O2 sensor helped me but not enough to pass. Loosen your distributor bolts, one on each side, turn your distributor counter clock wise about 1/4 inch and tighten bolts. This will raise your CO but should reduce the NOX. When the vehicle is passed, undo the changes.