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we are not them, this is just public forum.....
what if it's was not the gasket, and the oil seal rear leaks.
or trans leaks.
is car opted with,,, a trans A/T or M/T (auto/stick?)
is the oil leaking (sniff sniff/ look)
engine oil (use engine dye to see it)
ATF (red) or GL3 (manual gear lub)
first is to make sure which lube is leaking, then fix that.
sealing pay, is 3 things, good gasket, good sealant, and skill putting it on (and letting the sealant cure per lable)
-Drain the engine oil through the drain bolt located under the oil pan (sump).
-Preserve the used oil in a sealed canister to be disposed off later.
-Remove the oil pan bolts from all around and keep them in a tray.
-Oil pan is attached with a silicone sealant so it need a little practice to be separated from the cylinder block assembly. To remove it, tap it with a rubber, wooden or plastic hammer. If it is too hard to remove insert a thin wide chisel slowly from different places turn by turn but not damaging any of the surfaces.
-Finally insert a slightly thicker and strong wide chisel from the front side and force it slowly downward.
- Take out the oil pan carefully.
- Clean and wash it thoroughly with detergent and let it dry.
- Clean the lower surface of the cylinder block.
- Apply 3 to 4 mm thick layer of silicone sealant RTV-Grey to the oil pan mating surface.
- Hold the oil pan near the cylinder face not touching the cylinder face and center the pan by just tightening a few turns of oil pan bolt. Put another bolt on the opposite side. Screw in another bolt to the side of the pan and one more bolt to opposite the third bolt. Then screw in all the remaining bolts slightly.
- Seat in all the bolts and tight the bolts in many attempts.
- Make sure the silicone sealant flows out equally from all around the all pan.
- Wait about 1 hour to let the sealant dry.
- Install new oil filter.
- Pour new recommended engine oil and bring it to the upper level.
- Start the engine for ten seconds, switch it off and check the oil level again.
- The job is complete now.
use silicon sealant where needed eg ends of rubber
All bolt holes in pan need to be "peaned" back (hit with ball hammer)
Watch torque settings. Often too tight splits gasket.
Clean Dry surface = no oil
Make sure it's not the main seal leaking !
Exhaust hanger at the catalytic converter and lower the pipe.
Flywheel/torque converter housing access cover.
Oil level sensor (if equipped).
Place a pole jack under vibration dampener with a piece of wood between dampener and jack.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Engine mount through bolts and raise engine for clearance to remove pan.
Transmission cooler lines (if equipped).
Oxygen sensor harness from oil pan mounting studs.
Oil pan bolts and studs.
Oil pan and gasket.
Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
Apply Mopar® Silicone Adhesive Sealant or equivalent onto the cylinder block in four location as shown.
Attach the pan gasket to the oil pan with Hi-tack or equivalent (2003-2005 vheicles).
Use 1 ½ x ¼ inch bolts to fabricate alignment dowels. Cut off the head of the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowels (2006 vehicles).
Install two dowels into the timing case cover (2006 vehicles).
Install two dowels into the cylinder block (2006 vehicles).
Place the gasket over the dowels and onto the cylinder block and timing case cover (2006 vehicles).
Position the oil pan.
Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten to 84 in-lb (9.5 Nm).
Install the 5/16 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten to 132 in-lb (15 Nm).
Remove the dowels.
Install the remaining 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten to 84 in-lb (9.5 Nm) (2006 vehicles).
Lower the engine onto the engine mounts.
Install the through bolts and tighten the nuts.
Remove jack stand and remove the piece of wood.
Install the flywheel and torque converter access cover.
Install starter motor.
Connect the exhaust pipe to the hanger and to exhaust manifold.
Install the transmission oil cooling lines (if equipped).
Install the oxygen sensor wiring supports to the oil pan mounting studs.
Install the drain plug into the oil pan. Tighten to 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Connect negative battery cable.
Fill the oil pan with oil.
WARNING Use extreme caution when the engine is operating. Do not stand in a direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts or fan. Do not wear loose clothing.
try warming up the engine a little then re-tightening the bolts,if that doesnt work,mark where its leaking and pull the pan back off and apply sealant to that area a little heavier than the rest of the gasket surface,dont use too much on a new gasket,just a really thin coat...USE "ULTRA BLUE" sealant,NOT blue or black RTV silicone,silicone wears out and it can leak after a while..Allow the ultra blue sealant to dry for about 30 minutes before re-assembling it,and clean off all oil from the gasket before applying the sealant,its ok to apply it to both sides of the gasket,and add a glob to all 4 corners where the gasket meets with rubber seals around the crankshaft,but put those globs on right before you put the pan back in place,the sealant has to be wet to squish in enough..i hope this helps
not hard to change out that oil pan gasket tip- just think of it as a simple job nothing can go wrong you can do this i promis-----its not the rear seal its the shocks and struts common tell tell signs-get new ones before its tooo late