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This can be caused by several different things, such as: A bad axle shaft, the differential or transaxle bearings. The ring and pinion drive, wheel bearings etc. Any one of these will cause shaking and noise on deceleration. Check transaxle fluid level, raise vehicle front end and check for slop in the wheel bearings and check for noise while spinning the tire. The wheel bearings will often make noise when lugging down as you put it due to the weight shift to the front wheels. This also applies to the axle shafts and CV joints and the differential.
it can be any part of the front suspension or brake system including drive train damage jack up right side and with wheel still on place hands at top and bottom of wheel and push and pull in and out if movement usually a ball joint but ball joints dont give off a grinding noise ===now grab tire at the 9 and 3 position front and back -push and pull if loose possible tie rod damage or steering component damaged this also doesnt give off a grinding noise unless bent into a turning part =====turn wheel and listen and look at cv axle and around brake area if noise remove wheel and now inspect brake caliper ,brakes ,hub and axle for noise these components can give you your grinding noise repair or replace damaged components the other tests performed were for possible damaged parts since wheel was bent inward
I thought it was the CV axle in mine as well. I had a Chrysler Pacifica and had the CV axles repaired. The clicking noise continued (Almost reminds you of a card in a bike tire spoke.) Turns out it was the emergency brake. They had rusted on the driver side and were falling apart. They finally rusted off. When I had those replaced, the clicking noise was also gone. =)
If you still think the noise is coming from the left side CV joint it would be more advisable to replace the entire axle as an assembly. For the time and effort it takes, you can usually get a rebuilt axle assembly for only a few dollars more than the CV joint and the boot required to repair one. You will need a large axle nut socket (usually 30 - 32mm) to remove the axle nut. The lower ball joint and tie rod will need to be separated along with the brake caliper and rotor, from the spindle. I would recheck the grinding noise before doing it. A lot of wheel bearings are mistakenly diagnosed to the wrong side. If the noise is loudest when turning left, most people would assume the left side wheel bearing is at fault. However if the noise is loudest turning left it indicates the right side wheel bearing is most likely at fault. Due to the weight distribution of the front end, turning left the weight all transfers to the right side, loading that bearing. Make sure thats not the case before tackling an axle.
two possibles--cv axle or wheel bearing under no load can make noise but not common, does it make noise when turning tight? can you jack it up on that side and manually turn wheel and listen/feel for tight spots or sound. visually inspect cv axle if the rubber boots are bad count on the shaft being bad or fixing to be
It's probably your cv (constant velocity) joint. Jack up the honda and put it on safety stands, look at the area behind the center of both front wheels, there is a rubber boot. This boot protects the cv joint from dirt, road grime, water, salt, etc. If you see splits in it or grease on the boot, it has deteriorated, and is letting contaniments in. The damage has already been done if it makes a rattling noise going around corners at slow speed. I changed both cv joints (purchased rebuilt axles for $49 each) in my 92, but it is a big job labor wise. There's a lot to take apart to remove the axles.
Could be front CV axles making that noise. Check out the rubber cv boots going from the transmission to the center of the front wheels, If the boots are ripped or cracked, replace the cv axles on both sides.