Question about 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood

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Turn the key on and the starter will not engage.

The engine will start if you jump across the solenoid but but you have to pump the gas pedal to keep it running

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2000 ford ranger wont start just replaced clutch turn on ignition wont crank jump across starter terms will crank butnot start

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Check fuel pressure.if not above recomended spec. replace fuel pump. for starting have solenoid 0n starter checked.

Posted on May 19, 2009

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Rapid clicking noise when trying to start the engine?


Hi There,

You turn the key to start your engine and....
a series of rapid clicks. Your car won't start. What's going on?

That clicking noise is your starter solenoid.

Your starter needs a lot of power to turn your engine. That much power would melt your ignition switch in no time if it passed directly through it. So what happens instead is your ignition switch actuates another electric switch called a solenoid. The solenoid is a really HEAVY DUTY switch.

Inside it are two copper contacts that look like the head of a bolt only rounded. The battery is attached to one, the starter to the other. Hovering above them on a spring is a copper clad disk attached to an iron core. The iron core is inside an electro-magnet.

When you turn your key (in a perfect world), an electromagnet is activated that yanks the disk towards the contacts (Making a single decisive healthy CLICK). When they connect, the circuit is closed and the starter turns over. OK.

When things go wrong:

Low Battery:
  • The solenoid requires power to actuate.
  • The starter takes a lot more power to turn the engine.
  • When the battery is low, there isn't enough power to do both.
  • You turn the key, solenoid engages (CLICK)
  • Power goes to the starter
  • The starter tries to turn the engine
  • The draw from the starter drops the available power below the minimum needed to keep the solenoid engaged.
  • The solenoid disengages
  • The starter is no longer drawing power
  • The additional power allows the solenoid to re-engage (Click)
  • Repeat the process for as long as you have the key turned. (CLICKCLICKCLICKCLICK)
That's where those clicks are coming from and why.

The remedy:
Short term - Jump start
Long term - Charge or replace battery.


I wanted to explain what was happening rather than just saying 'dead battery, replace it'. That way you can judge for yourself whats going on.

Best regards
Mike

on Apr 20, 2010 | Ford F-100 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Engine rolling but not starting p0750, p0755 andc0701 diagonised what solution do u give


P0750 is the trans shift control solenoid valve A , P0755 is shift control solenoid valve B .C0701 can't find the trans codes wont keep engine from running. If crank sensor was replaced it should be ok it only tell witch two cylinders are up. The cam sensor tell witch cylinder is at tdc to fire. Check for fuel and spark , if both present check map/maf sensors tp sensor then ecm/pcm.

Jan 03, 2015 | 2008 Kia Rio

1 Answer

Good battery, key will not engage starter, jumping starter will not engage drive


jumping across the solenoid will spin the starter but will not engage the pinion in the ring gear. Have a load test done on the battery as I suspect that there is a bad cell and you are not getting a full charge. If the battery is faulty then there is always enough power to turn on dash lights but nothing left to run the high current solenoid and starter.

Dec 23, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1993 F350 turbo idi wont always start


There is a safety switch on top of the brake pedal lever or clutch lever which is suppose to prevent lurching on start-ups. It is suppose to insure that the Brake pedal is pushed OR the clutch is down before the engine will crank.

The Ignition switch is interrupted by the above cutout switches. But when Ignition is turned on, the Glow plug timer should click and cycle if Power Relay is giving it juice. So if you do not hear that type of clicking, the glow plugs will stay cold.

I would check to see if power is going to the Power Relay above the glow plug timer, and if it is getting power, does the Power Relay send it to the Timer? The starting circuit is more involved in a Diesel because the fuel must be atomized by heating it for initial starts. But you must be getting this process if jumping the solenoid results in the engine starting.

Therefore the big test is whether the small wire to the starter solenoid is dead when a foot is pressing the Brake or clutch pedal when the Ignition key is in the STARTER position.

So either your Ignition switch is bad at the STARTER terminal position or the signal is interrupted by the anti-lurch Interlock switch. It is quite common for problems with this switch being hit and broken or displaced by the Drivers' feet.

There was also no indication of whether you jumped the solenoid on a warm engine which could atomize the fuel by compression or a very cold engine which needed the glow plugs to work.

Please comment on my info and report your success.

Mar 27, 2013 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Starter?


Lets start at the beginning.
Are you saying the engine does not crank, or does not start ?
Either way, pumping the gas pedal has no affect on anything with starting the engine.
But cranking the engine for an extended period of time could.
If the engine is cranking but not starting, the problem could be a lack of fuel. The pump relay powers the pump for 3 seconds when you turn the key switch on, then has to have oil pressure to keep powering the pump.
If the pump relay is defective, or the check valve in the pump, you may not have enough fuel pressure when you first crank the engine.
Checking fuel pressure before and after cranking the engine would answer that question.
If the engine is not cranking, then something could be wrong with the starter or the flywheel.

Feb 13, 2013 | 2000 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

1966 mustang 289. won't start, jumped across solenoid, started. Replaced solenoid-starter wouldn't disengage, replaced starter, back to square 1, jumping across solenoid to start - whats my...


Ignition problem... No signal from ignition to solenoid...run a starter draw test to confirm starter is ok --- You can run your jump wires to a remote starter button or switch to get around it for now.

I hope this helps.

Sep 22, 2011 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

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