Question about 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass

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There is a light that keeps showing up right under the water temp. gauge. It has an arrow pointing down at water. I had water added and it went out for a week or so and now today it is starting to show again. Could it be i need anti-freeze?

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I had this same problem with my 99 old's cutlass 3.1. It urned out that my cooling fans stopped running when vehicle warmed to operationg temp. I had to manually run fans by turning on AC to level 1, stopped my coolant from exiting the overflow, which might be the case for you/might not? this was accidental after changing coolant temp sensor, thermostat and waterpump. Just pay attention and listen to your fans. I have yet to resolve why my fans won't operate on their own, but hell who knows. maybe the car is as finicky as it's owner!

Posted on Jul 09, 2010

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Water pump is going out

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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It sounds like the water pump is not working. Google your make and model with the words 'water pump repair' after it, if you want to try repair yourself. Otherwise take it to a mechanic you know and trust

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Overheating problem


i had something similar once, it ended up being the intake radiator hose, it has a metal coil inside, mine was broken and when you revved the motor it would **** the hose shut and overheat, but under 2000 rpm it was fine .

Jan 21, 2012 | 1997 Peugeot 306

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Was driving my 1999 chevy venture this morning after 12 miles had no heat & temp gauge pegged in the red. then went down & came right back up. Stopped & turned it off for 20 minutes or so. ...


You are describing a slow coolant leak and the resultant no heat and blockoverheating symptoms. The no heat is because there is insufficient coolant to cycle through the heater core, and the chuggin you describe is the engine indicating serious overheating.
With engine cold, you must add water--not anti-freeze--to the radiator itself, until it reaches the top of the radiator, then start the engine. If you do not have a radiator cap in addition to the overflow bottle (some vehicles don't), you must still add water to the radiator, even if you have to bypass the overflow bottle hose to do it. Add water until no more will go into the radiator. Start engine, let idle until operating temperature is reached. Thermostat should open and a good bit of the water will "sink" into the depth of the radiator. If you have no radiator cap, observe the temperature guage. When it reaches normal operating temp, when the thermostat opens, the temp will drop briefly at first, and you will notice warm air from the heater/defroster.
Once engine is warm and known to be full of water, seal radiator cap and/or system, and let idle for 30 minutes. Use this time to locate the "mystery leak." They can be very hard to find, and some won't leak until after the engine is turned off. During this idle period, observe the vehicle exhaust from the tailpipe as well as looking for actual water leaks: sometimes a bad head gasket can be diagnosed this way; if the exhaust is white and thick like steam, and smells like anit-freeze, you have a more serious problem. It is possible that after the repeated overheating cycles you have endured you may now have both a "mystery leak" and a blown head gasket.
Once leak is located, your next step is to let engine cool completely, drain the water, fix the leak, and then and only then add new antifreeze of the proper rating and ratio recommended by Chevy for your vehicle.
Anytime you drain a cooling system and refill it, it is necessary to check the overflow bottle at least 3 times in the first week after repair to ensure that you have the proper coolant level, and have not either missed another leak or not correctly repaired one. You MUST check it before you drive the vehicle the second time after the first repair attempt because it is normal to need to add more coolant than you added initially after the repair because of air trapped in the cooling system that will only be expelled after the first start/stop heating cycle. If after 1 week of daily normal driving you have only added a little more coolant once, and there are no more problems, you can be very comfortable that you have fixed your car.

Jan 16, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Venture

1 Answer

I have a 1997 jeep grand cherokee laredo 6 cyl. i was driving and noticed the battery gauge said the battery was dead and then i noticed the check gauges light went on. i pulled over and saw my temp gauge...


well check the coolant level. it sounds like you had a vapor lock and that would cause steam to escape and cause connections to get wet. this may have cause your battery to read dead. if you aren't low on coolant then i would start with the thermostat. that is easy to change and cheap. if you have low coolant then you may have vapor lock. to fix that you need to let the engine cool down and if you have a radiator cap remove it. look inside you should see coolant. if you don't fill up the radiator with coolant. with the cap off start the jeep and turn the heater on. let the engine warm up. watch the temp gauge and keep looking in the radiator. if you don't see coolant keep add it. at times it will bubble and burp this is normal. keep checking the temp gauge. now see if you feel heat coming out of the heater. if your feeling good heat then the system is circulating. (this mean your not in vapor lock anymore) let it keep running and keep adding coolant till it is full in the radiator. once full put the cap back on and fill the coolant tank to the full point. keep running it but keep checking the temp to be on the safe side. if the temp stay steady you should be good. hope this helps. please rate.

Jan 08, 2011 | Jeep Grand Cherokee Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

2003 VW Jetta 1.8T Temp Guage/False Overheating Issue


your car is cooking!!!! if your heater starts to blow cold air its got an air lock in the system and need to be blead out to get this air out of the water jaket in the engine sounds like your gauge is working fine to me, its screeming at you to stop! as its over heating the engine, look under your hood for the water hoses you should find a hose with a kind of nut or screw in it at the higest point on a water hose, this is the bleed point, fill the rad up with water and turn on the heater to hot only do this when the engine is COLD undo this screw or nut start the engine up and watch the water flow out this bleed point till there is no more air coming out with the water, keep the rad full of water and you dont need to put the rad cap back on till the air has been bled out but keep the rad full of water all the time after all the air is out refill the rad or top it up put the cap back on and run the motor it should not show as hot as it was and the heater should work just fine

Jan 14, 2010 | Volkswagen Jetta Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Overheating Express


is it acually getting hot or is it just the gauge on the dash saying so? a quality scan tool can show you what the coolant temp sensor is telling the pcm it may differ from the gauge.

Jun 17, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Express

1 Answer

Temp gauge went to 260 & stayed there. What could be the problem?


The only real way to answer your questions is for you to open the hood and look it over. Once it has cooled down, re-fill the cooling system (use water...it's cheaper and to do repair you will need to repalce it anyhow...Once full carefully look everything over to find where the leak is.Also make sure that the drivebelt is there. (from what you said, likely it is) If it's water pump, you will see coolant running out from under the pulley. Once you have looked everything over, if you have not found leak, start engine and close the cap...look again...as pressure builds, small leaks will become more obvious. If you don't find leak, remove the thermostat and change it.
After changing stat, if problem persists, it's likely that you have either a plugged radiator or an internal engine gasket problem. If you have any auxiliary electric cooling fans, make sure they are working and also check the fan clutch on the mechanical fan (it should not excessively freewheel when hot). Whole testing, any time you replace the radiator cap you must allow engine to cool down before removing it again. Watch temp gauge while testing...don't allow engine to overheat.

Apr 03, 2009 | 1995 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

Overheating/No Heat 2001 Impala


change the thermostat and the temp gauge in the radiator

Mar 03, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

Coolant system


Hello there,

Either an air bubble, the thermostat or the water pump.
  • Air bubble (pocket) - Just because the radiator is full, doesn't mean the engine is. When an air bubble circulates through an engine it will cause the temp gauge to swing from hot (when water is in contact with the sensor) to cold ( when air is in contact). The less water, the hotter the engine. Easiest fix - add water.
  • Thermostat - Keeps water circulating in the engine separate from the water in the radiator until it gets to a certain temperature. At that point, it opens and allows the hot engine water and the cooler radiator water to cycle. Hot to radiator, cool to engine. As the cooler water flows over the thermostat, it closes, allowing the cycle to repeat. If it opens at the wrong temp, or not at all, your engine will overheat. Water will begin to boil. Steam will make the temp gauge swing erratically.
  • Water pump - If the water pump is failing (sometimes the impeller will come of the shaft), the water will not circulate. Same results.
Troubleshoot:
  • First and foremost: BE SAFE!!! Wear safety glasses. Start this with the engine cool. When you look in the radiator, do it from an angle and as far away as possible.
  • Have a hose or a couple two liter bottles full of water.
  • Take off the radiator cap. (Do not take off if engine is hot)
  • Is the water level low? If so, top it off.
  • Make sure the transmission is in either PARK or Neutral and set the parking brake.
  • Start the engine.
  • Observe the water level in the radiator. If it drops, top it off again.
  • At first it should do nothing. The water in the engine is still cool. The thermostat is closed. As the water in the engine heats up, the thermostat will begin to open. When it does, you will notice the water level begin to surge up and down.
  • Check your temp gauge. If the gauge getting close to the 'Red Zone', the thermostat should have begun cycling before now. Go back to the radiator and check it.
  • When (if) the thermostat finally opens all the way, the water will start moving as it cycles through the system. You will be able to tell the difference.
  • If you see the water flowing, the water pump is ok.
  • If the water does not start to move and the gauge is getting close to 'Red', shut the engine down and let it cool. Do not put your face near the radiator. If the thermostat suddenly let go, The hot water, driven by steam, could erupt out of the filler hole. Replace thermostat. Rerun this test. If results are the same, replace water pump.
  • Does the water level drop at this point (air bubble)? If so, top it off while it's circulating. Adding cold water will close the thermostat. Be prepared to wait through the cycling two or three times.
  • Check the temp gauge again. Has it leveled off?
  • When you don't need to add water any more, put the cap back on. Observe the temp gauge for a few more minutes. has it stopped the erratic behavior? If so, it was an air bubble and it's gone. If not, replace the thermostat.
Let me know how it goes. If you have any other problems, click the ASK button.

Remember: Good thing come to those who Rate.

Mike

Jul 28, 2008 | 1998 Saturn SL

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