Question about 1994 Isuzu Pickup

1 Answer

1992 fuel injection 2.6 idle high and loping?

Sometimes check engine light flickers wnt stay on! brake light and anti lock stay on also ! ive askd mechanics nothing!

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  • Clark Hubbard
    Clark Hubbard Jan 21, 2013

    thx gettn code read soon

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1 Answer

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  • Isuzu Master
  • 21,873 Answers

The brake and ABS lights could be on because of a brake or ABS problem. The ABS system uses the hydraulic brake system in addition to the ABS components.
The high idle could be a vac leak or a problem with the idle air control valve. You could check the computer for trouble codes even if the warning light does not stay on.

Posted on Jan 21, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

j_del
  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: engine lopes at idle and check engine light on

In this case having the check-engine light is a good thing. Take the car to AutoZone and have them scan the computer for codes - they do it for free, whereas a shop will charge up to an hour's labor. Have them give you a printout of the codes, and post them here as a comment/reply. I can help you define them and see what needs to be done.

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: 94 isuzu pickup loping idle problem

I have a 91 pickup with the 2.3 engine. The problem that you are having is likely the same problem I have - and it is caused by the Mixture Control Valve. It is a white plastic barbell shaped device in a holder on the inside fender wall. There are two vacuum hoses going to it - one small diameter and a larger one. Air enters the bottom of the valve and is drawn through the larger hose. The amount of vacuum on the small hose regulates the amount allowed through the large hose. I haven't found one at a parts store nor have I found one in a junk yard just yet. The Isuzu dealer can order one, but as the parts guy said, "Isuzu is very proud of their part". It costs about $150. If you want to check yours, there are several things you can do: first, run the vehicle and put your hand under the valve - it will **** a lot of air all the time. You can pull the valve off the truck and pry the bottom off the housing. You will probably see the same thing I did - broken pieces that used to stop the air flow through the valve. Until you get a replacement, you can try what I did: 1. Pull the small vacuum hose off and let it lay loose, or 2. Pull the small vacuum hose off and let it lay loose AND block the large hose (or the bottom of the valve). In either case, you have to adjust the fast idle screw and/or mixture screw on the side of the carburator. If you adjust either screw, write down what you did, in case you get a new valve later. The diference between 1 and 2 is that 1 will run good once it is warmed up but will want to stall until it warms; 2 runs good both when cold and warm, but will idle faster than it should. Neither of these will make the truck run like it should, but it is a 100 times better than trying to drive it with the loping.

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Isuzu Rodeo 54248 miles

Hi.

If problem is only on startup and when idleing, then the problem is likely IAC system, also a vacuum leak will cause the same problem.

If problem is not only on startup and idle, but also when driving, then MAP sensor and EGR system must be checked.

Check also accelerator cable state and setting.


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The first thing to do is pulling out the OBDII fault codes stored in the ECM. This is done connecting a code reader to the ECM diagnostic port. The job can be done for a small fee at any local garage, and it is done for free at AutoZone.

The codes will help locating the problem.

About possible faults:

Problem is stalling when idling and during startup, but engine idling fast all the time. Problem not starting at times it is due to the fact that the wrong mixture is being sprayed, this is probably causing flooding and misfire. Since the CEL is on, one of the codes returned is probably misfire.

Check accelerator.

Check IAC system. This is composed by a valve and a solenoid that check and control amount of extra air air when the engine is idling. The IAC valve is located on top of the throttle body.

Check the vacuum system and try cranking with gas tank cap off. Vacuum system is tested using an hand tool gauge onvacuum lines while spraying card cleaner on the hoses (or heating them with a torch). If there is a leak, pressure will go up. A big leak will also do hissing noise, and will often result in a lean code when doing an OBD code scanning.

This kind of symptoms can also be caused by weak wiring to MAP/MAF sensor (MAP in this engine).

If the car also drives very rough and is revving up and down in a weird way, check the EGR valve.

As first thing I would do a code scanning. This car is OBDII. The scan can be done for free at the nearest Autozone, or for a small fee at any garage.

If you get any OBDII code from the scan, report it here, so that we can individuate the possible reason for the problem.

If you repute my solution helpful, then please take some times to accept the solution. Providing good repair tips requires time and skills, and your feedback is important for us.

Regards.

Ginko.

Posted on Oct 26, 2010

mechanicsonl
  • 431 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1992 2.6 fuel injected pickup. the motor

just check and make sure the cable is not either catching on the cables outer casing, or its got a kink in it where it feeds through the firewall

Posted on Oct 13, 2011

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1 Answer

22re starts good but after a minute starts to lopes


surge, lopes, hunts, all same. but does it do this hot/cold or both engine temps.?????????
Im and expert on this.... done many and is related to EFI fuel controls
big time..... (ive even programmed Megasquirts to do this)
first the rules then causes.
Rule 1, The EFI controls idle at all times. so that proves.
Macro reasons.
1: EFI lost control. (stuck ISC?)
2: Engine is missiing (too rich, too lean or never tuned up)
3: or both, usually #2 causes 1 ,

there are ways to solve this riddle
my ways are simple
i test the ISC, see if it works, (unplug it or power it with 12v power supply, ) Id clean the ISC first.

this old car 1992 , scan tools are hard to find for OBD1 cars.
so cant look to see if CLosed loop is working, I can with a scope
but you dont have a scope.
you could put in the diagnostic check jumper and hope for an error code to flash out.
you can look as spark plugs (newones work wonder) and see
if its burning fuel correctly (like old school carb days)
black?> white tips>
all engine carbs and EFI all will surge when lean,.
all, and on EFI it will in fact try to stop the surge,
if lean enough the EFI can actually make the surge worse
is it tries desperately to correct the impossible.@!

that be surge.
i learnd that loping my mule one day.. LOL

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1992 acura integra wont stay running


Try the procedure below.

Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

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Black smoke and high gas comsumption


This sure sounds like a "rich" condition. Meaning the engine is receiving too much fuel from the fuel injection system or the carburetor, depending what type of fuel delivery system you have and the year of the vehicle. A rich condition most always causes excess carbon (black smoke) and high gas consumption. A common cause of this on later model vehicles with fuel injection is a bad fuel pressure regulator allowing too much fuel to enter the throttle body. Many pressure regulators are connected directly to the fuel rail running along the topside of the engine. It's about 2-3 inchs round and has a vacuum port on top of it. If it is easliy accessable, pull the vacuum hose off of it and see if the engine idle speed stays the same, also check for any unwanted fuel inside the vacuum hose. If those 2 conditions exsist, chances are you have a bad fuel regulator.

Carbureted vehicles are another story. They have a float and a needle & seat assembly inside which sometimes get stuck or dirty, allowing too much fuel to enter the engine. Both of these parts are deep inside carburetor and are best left to a professional technician to diagnose. One last thought. A bad oxygen sensor (O2 sensor) will sometimes cause a rich condition. But if an O2 sensor goes bad, it is usually accompanied by a "check engine" light coming on.
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1 Answer

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