Question about 1999 Chrysler 300M

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How do you know if you have a bad cylinder

My car shakes at an idle until it reaches 40mph. I was told it;s my #1 cylinder.

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First is the check engine light on ? There may be trouble codes stored in the computer that would help you find the problem.
If the number one cylinder is not producing power, the problem could be ignition, fuel, or mechanical.

Posted on Jan 21, 2013

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SOURCE: 2001 Chrysler LHS engine misfire

You have a spark plug or wire breaking down under pressure.I would have them changed.

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SOURCE: i have a 2001 chyrsler concorde and im having a

Sometimes your plenum gaskets can leak ,,making a vacuum leak for bank 1 2 lean

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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I have a reoccurring problem with a flashing check engine light flashing. the code always indicates an engine misfire. I have replaced all coils, wire set, plugs, O2 sensor and cat. The problem...


You need to know if it IS misfiring. Does it shake at idle?
Typically I recommend experienced techs deal with misfires.
the code should say P030x, with the X being the number of the cylinder it believes is misfiring (No, computers arent always right about which cylinder. USUALLY, but not always.)
Lets assume it says CYLINDER 3. (Only your scanner will tell you for sure, 3 is an example we are using for now). You could try disconnecting cylinder 3 ignition coil plug at idle. On a good cylinder that is NOT misfiring, you will hear and feel the engine run rougher and slow down when you unplug its coil or injector. Thats because it WAS contributing until you unplugged it. Your v6 engine idles at say 600rpm warm when its running good. If you unplug any 1 cylinder, youve lost 1/6 of the engine output (actually more due to dead weight drag from that cylinder, but not important for now). SO, if you find the cylinder it says is misfiring, and it loses rpm when unplugged, its probably doing SOMETHING or trying to. If you unplug it and zero change heard or felt, that cylinder is likely dead.

Heres where it gets hard. Could be literally dozens of things that take some familiarity and experience to ID. bad spark, bad fuel mix, bad spark plug, oil fouling, low compression, leaky valves, blown headgasket, leaking intake, EGR leaking at idle, wrong weight of motor oil (some cars) and the list goes on. An experienced drivability tech can usually narrow it down or find it in 1 hour or less. If you are learning as you go, you could take many hours, and still miss things that trained eyes and ears wont.

Start by figuring out which cylinder. If it idles smooth (No shake at idle, and if you clear code and start it and let it idle the light never comes back till you drive over 75 as you stated), then I strongly recommend a professional check it.
If it idles rough and you know which cylinder, you can try taking out that coil and spark plug if you know how, moving them to another cylinder that isnt misfiring, then clear the code and drive it and see if the same code resets or a new code for the other cylinder sets. If the code is the same, you have deeper issues not worth explaining here.
If the code moves to the new cylinder, then 1 or both of the 2 parts you changed are likely at fault. You can replace them an very likely fix the issue.
Again, I strongly recommend professional help. But that may get you started.

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Cylinder #1 misfire 2001 kia rio


You forst need to see if that cylinder is getting fuel, this requires an injector flow test be run by a dealer or a well equipped shop, also you at home can check for intake manifold vauum leaks with a can of carburetor spray. You should also run a compression test on all cylinders and see if that one cylinder is lower than 5% from the hightest reading.

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Ford Ka 2000 is shaking (misfiring?)


Yup, you said it yourself, Your a parts replacer and not a mechanic. I understand friend. Your engine problem is the fault of a bad or really dirty fuel injector. Take it to an Auto Zone and ask them to check the codes on your vehicle. The code will read P0304 if it's # 4 cylinder that's misfiring. We call it a dead cylinder that doesn't seem to always be dead. Because normally it just shakes a little at an idle, is smooth going up the gears, until it gets into overdrive and it will shake and vibrate like all is going to come apart. Find out which cylinder is dead and change that injector. Done.

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My 2000 Ford Ranger suddenly started idling really rough (like it wants to stall) and also shakes really bad at 40 mph. It also shakes the truck while driving, but not as bad as at idle or 40mph. No e


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If so you need to start with the trouble codes in the computer.
Could be a faulty injector or coil among other things.
You should have a codes for which cylinder is not firing and other possible problems.

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Car was vibrating slightly when idling or accelerating. Took it to a repair shop and it was diagnosed as cylinder misfire. I had 2 cylinders replaced. When driving home after picking it up, there was...


If you have 25 miles to drive with that serious missfiring going on, I would first try to find a repair shop closer to you. It need not be a Volvo shop. Failing that, I would have it towed. Since the towing distance may be greater than 5 miles, investigate joining a road hazard protection program first (like AAA or others). Once signed up, then have it towed under the new protection. I think you will find it cost effective to do that rather than just calling a tow truck.

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Engine shakes and hesitate when started until it idles down


Sounds like its missing on 1 or more cylinders. A check of the plugs and wires is in order, Could be a fouled plug or a loose/bad sparkplug wire. Best of luck.
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1994 Nissan Altima shakes while idling


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