Question about 1989 Oldsmobile Delta 88
Cam sensor crank sensor ecm and ingnition module was checked and still no spark
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: crank sensor
The crank sensor is behind the harmonic balancer. Not too hard to replace, the harmonic balancer is supposed to come right off but I needed a big 2-jaw puller to get it off.... accessed through the wheel well.
Posted on May 23, 2009
Hi, I had the same problem with no spark at my 1993 Cutlass. I changed DIS module, Crank Sensor and checked the coils and still no spark. the problem was at the cable between the Crank sensor and the DIS module that was in short circuit. the cable has two pins at crank Sensor and three at DIS Module. (I believe that the extra PIN is the ground because the cable is shielded). The original cable has no isolation. I bought the cable in a yunk yard and the spark appear again. Check it, because this cable is exposed to high temperatures and oil and for this reasson they lost the isolate.
Posted on Oct 19, 2009
Well dan after 13 yrs at gm I have found a couple of these. one really got me. First I know it sounds funny but you need to pull the carpet back on the dr. and pass. side and check the ground splices as they are connected to every thing in the car from front to back. they are a black connector taped into the harness and connect all the grounds with a steel buss bar. I always cut all the wires and soldered them together and re-tape em up. this problem would sometimes come with the engine dying when trying to roll the power windows down, or intermittent window operation. Second I had one car i really lost my **** on... it would stall on the cust. on HIS dirt road for him at times. I tried a couple of sensors and a ecm as each would look bad depending on the frame the scan tool would freeze on. The only thing that fixed the car was removing all the grounds on the engine and grinding them clean, replacing all the ground ends and reassembling. That prayer i said when the guy picked might have also helped but the car never stalled again and the cust returned for his next two car purchases. this is one heck of a problem you have here-sorry. I have had to wire in lights to the grounds and powers for the injection while driving before also. remember the pink and blk. wires for the injectors is hot with the key on.
Posted on Aug 31, 2008
If the engine won't start, perform a spark test as described earlier. This will narrow the problem area down considerably. If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery terminal (BAT) in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the on position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end at the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly.
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed. and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
Sounds like the ignition module or the crank sensor. Even though the crank sensor is fairly new doesn't mean anything. Remove the ignition module and take it to a parts store. Most parts stores can test it.
Posted on Jun 11, 2010
Testimonial: "I HAVE TAKEN THE MODULE TO O'REILLYS AND THEY SAID IT WAS GOOD..I AM GOING TO CHANGE TH MODULE TOMORROW..AT LEAST I HOPE I CAN..THANK YOU"
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