Question about Suzuki Aerio
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Shorting out, or not working? Each describes a different problem, and with shorting out, you would be blowing and replacing fuses all the time.
Not working would indicate a bad connection somewhere. Maybe the main fuse buss, maybe a relay connector, etc.
Wiring diagrams can normally be found in the factory service manuals, which many repository libraries maintain a copy of.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
First, remove the broken belt very carefully. Then, prepare your work
area. Having the right tools are critical. A serpentine belt
remover/adjuster, Mopar Part #23-w3221 can really help save you time.
It is a silver plier-looking tool with a gold tip that has a solid
microprocessor embedded into the base.
Now, jack up the front end with tire jacks and stablizers. Make sure your battery is fully disconnected. Take your spare key, and insert into the lip of the fuse box and twist 1/3 turn to the left. Now press hard, forcing the top to pop. Wash out the air cleaner while your at it or you may wish you had. Dust in a power converter steering box modulator rack box is a no no
Ok, pop a couple of beers, chug one and sip the other. At this point you will either start getting sleepy or creepy. Pop a couple more beers, power drain these down your esophogus and hopefully the creepy thing will fade quickly
Install the belt according to the package schematic, but without adding the d-clip retainer ring supplied. You may need to bend the alignment washer 6-7 degrees south of the ring equator balance indicator. Once the belt is loosely hung on the balance jam level bar, take up about 34mm of slack. More or less, and you can kiss the new belt goodbye.
Pop the last two beers of the six pack, and make it a day.
I would also recommend to replace the timing belt adjuster as I have them seen also lose hydraulic pressure after compressing it in a vice and the belt slipping a tooth or two off the timing. You will probably find there will a transfer pipe across that travels across the lenght of the V6 valley, have a look into this as there is usally a BIG o'ring on the transfer tube that sits in the back of the water pump plate on the engine, make sure you replace that also as I have seen that leak also
Just incase you are unsure mate, I have attached a pic for you with a bit of info about your timing belt, they are marked in a direction of travel, make sure this is put on the correct way, I have coloured the belt in 2 shades of colour, you MUST have the PINK section tight all the way around between both cam shaft pulleys around the crank pulley and back to the bottom of the idler pulley and I mean tight, no slop or belt deflection at all, you can use your spanner to help roll the cam pulley a few mm forward to get it really tight but also must line up to the timing marks, these are usally marked on your tappet covers but I see yours are marked on your timing case, the BLUE section is where you should only have the belt loose as this is where all the rest of the belt tension is achieved with the belt tension, if you don't think it is tight enough try it a few times ie take the belt off and try it a few times before you pull the lynch pin out on your belt tensioner as trust me they don't like to be compressed too often.
Timing Belt 3.5L / PDF File
Good luck (rated this help).
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
Belt removal instructions (and routing information) may be found on a sticker under the hood. I have posted a picture of the diagram below if these instructions have faded. The routing on the left is without the AC.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009
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