I am unfamiliar with your exact product but can explain the operation of a Diesel on Startup.
The initial start requires glowplugs, a glowplug timer, and a power relay (which may be incorporated as a timer/relay combo unit}. Once the engine starts, compression fires the fuel after the cylinders heat up.
First, you need a strong battery. Then you need a good starter. Have both checked. A draw test on the starter can be done on the unit or use a bench check.
Check the power pulse to the glowplugs by using a Voltmeter on a disconnected glowplug wire. Note how long or if it works at all. If the wire going to the glowplug does not work, it is connected to the timer.
No power coming out of the timer can mean no power is going into the timer. That means to check the power relay supplying the timer first, before condemning the timer.
If all seems well, its time to pull the glowplugs and test them. As you can see, the time is brief. This means it is the only amount of time the glowplugs have to heat up.
Glowplugs can be checked by energizing each glowplug with a battery jumper cable and comparing visually the glow of each plug. The more each glows, the better the condition of the glowplug. BUT you can melt them. Be careful to preserve the threads of each glowplug by fixing the battery cable to the base housing and touching the top of the glowplug with the other battery jumper cable.
There will be arcing, but the top of the glowplug should still accept the feedwire after you do this. Darker glowplugs are worn out. Remember that heating time is limited.
NEXT, Some makers use a relief valve for "cold start" compression. I know Kubota does. This device is suppose to relieve compression for easier starts and may also be a possibility for your problems.
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Several things may help here,,check oil levels and see if the oil is really thick(in cold weather it will turn to sludge and startup is almost impossible) heat the engine witha space heater for some time to warm it up if possible..or take a torch carefully to the block for some minutes..do not discolor the paint, just enough to warm the engine..also take the starter off and test for high end torque while free running..if not turning to speed replace it..( a warmed up engine will start easier)..then change to a lighter weight engine oil for cold weather use..usually rotella 5w30 will work fine..and put a suplement aditive in the fuel for cold start use..like cetane boost ita what truckers use in colder climates..we had a fleet of diesel trucks that wre a pain to start in below zero weather until we learned about the cetane additive and tricks for cold weather starting some years ago.. now most gas stations sell pretreated fuel for their area of the country.. this is a requirement by federal law...but the rule of thumb is a quart of cetane for a fifty gallon tank of fuel for anything between zero and 15 below temps ..above that a quart for 100 gallons should be fine..only use ether as a last resort..because too heavy of a concentration will blow the engine apart. this smoke is a combination of diesel fuel and engine oil vapors that have collected together in the combustion chamber during startup proceedures..but I think if you heat the engine for a bit with a space heater it will help to get things going for you.. and charge the battery also..repost findings thnx
Check and clean both the pos. and neg. cables . also give the battery a good charge.
SOURCE: 2004 Ford explorer will not start
Sounds like connections or cables. They may appear to look good but if they are aftermarket terminal ends they get corrosion under the bolt down clamp that holds the wires in. If they are factory cables that are molded on to the ends of the wires the same thing can happen. The easiest and cheapest thing to try is to put aftermarket terminal ends on the cables. Make sure you wirebrush the ends of the cables after you strip them and tighten them evenly and securely. Also clean the battery side thoroughly. If this doesn't work check the starter relay. Its the first place the red cable bolts to after the battery. Check the connections and try putting a jumper wire between the battery positive cable and the small terminal marked with an "S". One of these solutions should take care of this.
SOURCE: 1987 F150 302 ci. EFI, Automatic,
try over riding the starter relay on the fender ,it has one there right?. dont go to a mechanic yet. the engine aint seized. if it doesnt have this relay then i would get the alternator tested. if you want to test it yourself it can be costly for the right equip. autozone usually tests for free. i dont know were you live so if theres not an autozone. let me know if you cant get it tested.
SOURCE: Bosch edc 5.3 fitted to MAN D2876 lf02 engine
try blocking off the valve that connects the inlet manifold to the exhaust and see what happens ??? or just disconnect it from the inlet manifold and try that before you remove the pump to have it overhauled ,Yes we do seem a bit short of motor vehicle categorys if not a yank it doesnt exist ,and as for the spelling¿¿¿¿ DA??? pigs tails??? fire wires??looks like we will have to re invade the colonys and teach them proper queens english .The only problem with that is and thats all the english have left the UK ,Its now a third world muslim country .Anyway best of british with it ---from spain
SOURCE: My 99 buick regal ls 3800 II series won't start or
On the passengers side close to the battery there is a junction box.There are fuses and relays in here.Remove the cover and check the crank fuse.It is a maxi fuse so it is one of the big ones.If you look under the cover it self it will show which fuses are for what circuits.If this fuse is blown then replace it with the same size fuse.If it is good then you will have to check and see if you are getting power to the starter.This will be at the purple wire on the starter.You need to have above 9 volts for the starter to turn over.The best way to check this is with a multimeter.If you have over 9 volts then try tapping on the starter while attempting to start the vehicle.If it turns over then replace the starter if not you will have to find out if you are getting power out of the park/nuetral switch.This is located on top of the transmission by the shift cable.Power comes in on the yellow wire and goes to the starter on the purple wire.If you have power going in but not out then replace the park/nuetral switch.Hope this helps and let me know what you find.Good luck.
SOURCE: my battery light came on dash of ford transit
yes looks like either u need to charge or change ur battery.
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how are the batt. terminals? have you checked the volts on the battery? i would start by cleaning the batt. and the terminals then check the voltage.
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