Question about Cars & Trucks
Congrats. Sarcasm is free.
I didn't see a question, so let's play the guessing game.
Do you need to know how to mount a gauge to the dash?
Do you need to know where to run the power wire for gauge light?
Do you need to know where to install the sensor on intake and or engine?
Do you need to borrow some tools?
I feel better after unloading sarcasm.
Now, I'm going to assume it's water temp.
if it's electronic, you can just remove the stock sensor wire from on/near the waterneck/thermostat housing and plug in the new wire.
If it's mechanical, you will need to install the new probe into a port where it can contact the water.
On my old 3.8 (1997) I changed to an aftermarket waterneck that had a spot to screw in a temp probe.
On my 2003 gt, I haven't upgraded gauges yet, but the water sensor is on the front passenger side of the intake. I will add a pic of my gt so you can see the placement.
With this type, you can just add your wires to it (splice them in) and keep both the stock gauge & the aftermarket.
Or just remove the stock wire, then the stock sensor, then install the new stuff.
it's the black wire near the alternator. (almost center right of the pic to the right of the pink fuel injector)
Posted on Jan 20, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Common problem on the 05 Mustang instrument clusters, it's caused by failing stepper motors on the cluster's circuit board and it can be repaired. Check out this page for more on how to get it fixed - 05 Mustang speedometer problems
Posted on Sep 30, 2010
Your alternator-mounted voltage regulator has failed. Luckily, your voltage regulator is
replaceable separately from the alternator (most voltage regulators are integral to the alternator,
and cannot be separately serviced).
Note: this works for 3.8L cobra alternators/voltage regulators only - in the 4.6L model, the
voltage regulator is an integral component of the alternator.
1999 Ford Mustang Cobra -3.8L engine
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove 4 Torx® head screws holding the voltage regulator to the alternator rear housing. Remove the regulator, with the brush and terminal holder attached.
Fig. 1. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are mounted on the backside of the alternator
Fig. 2. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are secured by 4 Torx® head machine screws
Fig. 3. Hold the regulator while removing the screws to prevent the regulator from dropping out and damaging the brushes
3. Hold the regulator in one hand and pry off the cap covering the A terminal screw head with a small prybar.
4. Remove 2 Torx® head screws retaining the regulator to the brush holder. Separate the regulator from the brush holder.
Fig. 4. Slide the regulator out-the brushes will move out of the holder
Fig. 5. The brush and terminal holder can be separated from the regulator once it is removed from the alternator
1. Install the brush holder on the regulator with 2 retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 25-35 inch lbs. (2.8-4.0 Nm).
2. Install the cap on the head of the A terminal screw.
3. Depress the brushes into the holder and hold the brushes in position by inserting a standard size paper clip, or equivalent tool, through both the location hole in the regulator and through the holes in the brushes.
Fig. 6. When installing the regulator, press the brushes back into the housing
Fig. 7. Use a thin piece of soft material, like this plastic wire tie, to hold the brushes in position while replacing the regulator, or use a paper clip inserted in the hole
4. Install the regulator/brush holder assembly and remove the paper clip. Install the attaching screws and tighten to 20-30 inch lbs. (2.3-3.4 Nm).
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Posted on Jul 07, 2011
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