Re: need to know the right tool to losen the two fuel...
Go to autozone or o'rielly's and ask for the tool to take the fuel line off. It is a plastic ring that is split in middle and it fits over the fuel line and you push it in to the fitting and then pull them apart. They should hook you up with what you need.
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I know the feeling well when this happens. I to did the same as you and also did the clamp, but found the best way was to yous a crimp tool for fuel lines and its not come off since its like the tool to put brake lines on to the calipers and then you put the rubber hose onto it and using a fuel line clip to hold the rubber in place. has lasted the last 5 years now with no problems.
If it's a 4x4 the filter is under the driver side door on the frame, if it's a 4x2 then the filter is ahead of the passenger side wheel on the frame. Pull the fuel pump fuse from under the hood and crank it over to relieve some fuel pressure and ensure that the fuel doesn't shoot out all over the place. Then unscrew the band clamp off of the filter. If the fuel lines have the plastic pin type retainers just pull the pins out and pull out the filter. If it has the metal auto-locking spring couplers then you need a 5/16" fuel line disconnect tool. Wiggle the line/filter, push the tool into the coupler all the way and turn and pull the fittings apart. Put the new filter back in with the flat end facing the rear and push the pins back in/push the couplers back on and re-tighten the band clamp. Put the fuse back in the under-hood fuse panel. Turn the key from off to run about 5 times to cycle the fuel pump and prime the lines. Check to see if there is any gas leaking and if there isn't start it up.
I don't know the above answer that I found can do for you or not. Good luck!
Remove the screw from the metal bracket that is holding the fuel filter. It is located right below the battery to the right. To get the quick connect fuel line fittings off. YOU WILL NEED A DISCONNECT TOOL. O'Reillys or Auto Zone should have the tool pack of (6) The small gray one fits the 2001 Sportage. Put the plastic tool under the fuel line fitting and squeeze together. The fuel line will pop off the old filter. To remove the rear fuel line, go under the vehicle and use the tool on the fuel line. There is a rubber hose with 2 quick connect fittings. One end attaches to the filter and the other end attaches to a metal fuel line under vehicle. Remove the fitting that attaches to the metal line since there is no room on the back of filter for the tool to fit. Once you get the whole assembly out of the car.... you can work on getting the fitting off the rear of the old filter. Be very careful not to damage the plastic quick connect fittings! KEEP YOUR FACE CLEAR OF THE FILTER A SMALL AMOUNT OF GAS WILL COME OUT!!!!!
This can be a messy job. The filter is under the vehicle by the frame rail. It may be cradled in a protective metal shield but is generally held together by the end clamps of the fuel line.
Unfortunately, you must release the fuel pressure to separate the line ends of the fuel line. Sometimes this kicks off the Inertia sensor which must be reset. The ends of the fuel line often take a special tool to unclamp the springs in the connectors.
It is particularly hard to unclamp the fuel filter when it has pressure. It is easier to replace an oil filter than do this job.
If it is a plastic type, with rubber hose connections, then just a pair of pliers to remove the squeeze clips.
Nowadays most EFI cars have a metal body fuel filter with a "banjo" connection at one end. For this you need a socket wrench or ring spanner the right size.
At the other end is probably a metal fuel line with a compression fitting nut on it, which may be very tight. Here you need a flare nut wrench, which is a ring spanner with a slot to allow it go around the fuel line. Using an open end spanner or adjustable spanner may round off the nut if it is tight.
Hello, I can tell you where everything is at. Did all my lines in Feb 2011. The rear lines on a F150 come from each rear wheel and they are rubber until the end of their brackets. Metal lines take over and meet at a vent tube holder on the Drivers side of the axle. An overhead rubber line with a splitter is bolted to a threaded vent tube and each rear wheel line fits in the brass block that is part of the Rubber line.
Each rear wheel line has a different size fitting to avoid mix ups. The brake line is the same diameter throughout. All use inverted flare fittings. It is a pain to get the fittings beforehand as they are mixed sizes.
The rubber line with a splitter meets a metal line topside of the frame around the frame hump for the rear wheels. The line is on rubber hangers as it travels toward the front of the truck and meets a metal union just short of the fuel filter. The metal line goes through the frame and tightly runs past the bottom of the Drivers fender and goes outside the frame until it meets the front wheelwell.
The same line crosses back into the inside of the frame and runs parallel with the frame, past the A arms and then ends up attaching to the ABS unit.
The Dealer probably does not have preformed lines. Every combination of bedsize and cabsize will determine how long some of the brake lines are. (Based on wheelbase.)
You have 2 choices. Get a preformed Stainless kit with front lines too, around $200. Make your own and spend hours assembling, bending, and flaring fittings after buying the line and the fittings.
You can go with cheap lines or use what I did, a copper/nickel mixed metal line that Volvo perfected with an extended salt corrosion resistance. It really is a job you only want to do once.
Gotta hand it to the brake mechanics who do it every day.
Here is a Summary. 2 Rubber hoses from each wheel, 2 metal lines to the threaded brass block on the vent tube. 1 rubber hose with the brass block. Then a long run of brakeline, then a connection around the fuel filter, and another long run of brakeline outside and back inside the frame to the ABS unit.
I wish you luck on this repair. I hope my Solution is very helpful.
All newer GM models use a quick connect fitting for the fuel lines. They are not threaded and do not have a replaceable o-ring. You can buy a cheap set of disconnect tools from any auto parts store or sears. Another option would be to buy them on line. The cheaper tools usually do not work the greatest. One solution I have used is to make a small strip of sheetmetal and wrap it around the metal line. Using a pliers you can press the sheetmetal into the quick connect while pushing the flexible line towards the metal tubing. Once the sheetmetal engages inside the quick connect, pull the hose off. Be careful with the sheetmetal, because it can be sharp. I would recommend buying the more expensive removal tools, especially if this is something you do more than once.
The fuel filter is located right below the battery to the right. If you intend changing it, here are a few steps to help. Firstly, remove the screw from the metal bracket that is holding the fuel filter. To get the quick connect fuel line fittings off, you need a disconnect tool. I got a pack of 6 at Advance Auto for $12. The small gray one fits the 2001 Sportage.
Put the plastic tool under the fuel line fitting and squeeze together. The fuel line will pop off the old filter. To remove the rear fuel line, I had to go under the vehicle and use the tool on the fuel line. There is a rubber hose with 2 quick connect fittings. One end attaches to the filter and the other end attaches to a metal fuel line under vehicle. Remove the fitting that attaches to the metal line since there is no room on the back of filter for the tool to fit. Once you get the whole assembly out of the car, you can work on getting the fitting off the rear of the old filter. Be very careful not to damage the plastic quick connect fittings!
You want to be very careful not to make any sparks while working on this. The obvious is smoking, banging metal tools around, etc. keep cell phones AWAY from the area. Pick up some rubber fuel line from the parts store. Be prepared for some gas leakage, have a plastic pan under the leak. Disconnect the line at the tank, have a piece of new hose ready to push on over the line to as close to the tank as you can, have the end away from the tank plugged up temporarily with a pencil or something that fits snug in it, then remove the rubber hose on the filter, and connect new line from tank to filter, check for leaks, hopefully it is the rubber line you replaced, or the end of the metal line, so the new hose will hopefully cover the corroded leaking area. Clamp and Dry off area and see if you can spot any leaks.