MUST KEEP TURNING KEY IN IGNITION TO GET STARTER TO ENGAGE. WITH KEY OUT OF IGNITION MY HANDHELD VOLTMETER SHOWS A DISCHARGE. HEATER,WIPERS,RADIO ETC. WILL CONTINUE TO WORK EVEN WITH KEY OUT OF IGNITION !
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3)Spark: From battery to spark plug The battery is the source of stored electrical power in the vehicle.A voltmeter between the terminals of a healthy battery should read 12.5 volts.A reading of 12.2 volts indicates a flat battery and a reading of 10.4 volts indicates a dead cell (each cell beingabout 2 volts).A battery should be capable of sustaining high current, as needed by the starter motor when turning the engine over. When the car is running the voltage measured across the terminals shouldbe between 14.2 and 14.5 volts.The value is the voltage being supplied to the battery by the output charge from the alternator. THis charging voltage should not alter much when additional load is applied to the battery (head lights on etc). When the ignition key is turned to the second position,often referred to as 'key on engine off', all car functions are powered up including lights and fuel pump.When the key is turned to position 3 many ancillary functions are temporarily interrupted to allow the battery to meet the extra needs of the starter motor. Electrical charge from the starter switch passes through a master fuse and starter relay before energizing the starter solenoid.The starter solenoid moves the pinion gear on the starter motor to engage with peripheral teeth of the flywheel.Simultaneously, heavy copper contacts are bridged by this same movement causing the starter motor coils to become energized thereby turning the engine over. During the ignition process electrical charge passes through the primary windings of the ignition coil(s).The engine control unit (ECU), taking signalsfrom the engine crank position sensor, collapses the field of the coil(s) appropriate to the cylinder requiring ignition.As the field collapses the secondary coil windings discharge very high voltage through the high tension lead to the spark plug.The charge is so high that at the spark plug gap the charge jumps across with a spark.The compressed fuel air mixture in the cylinder is ignited by this spark. Checking the spark process starts with the plugs.The condition of the removed plugs reveals a lot about the nature of the ignition within the cylinders.Dark sooty deposits indicate overly rich fuel air mix and glazed plugs indicate overly hot lean mixtures.Removing the plugs (with the fuel pump relay unplugged) and holding the screw threads to the cylinder head whilst turning the engine over will reveal the quality of spark.The spark holders and leads should be examined for discharge through the insulation to the cylinder head.Removing the leads from the coil should reveal sparks emanating from the exposed connectors.Failure to see sparks at this point indicatesa failed coil (especially if neighboring coils show good spark) or a failed crank sensor if all coils show no spark. NEXT 1.1 MAF Mass Air Flow sensor
Voltage drop? I'm guessing you don't have a voltmeter, so turn on the headlights and observe them as someone tries to start the truck. If the lights go out, bad connection at battery, starter, or ground. If the lights get dim, probably the starter-it's drawing power, just not working. If the lights don't change, check for power going to the starter solenoid on the small wire on the starter; voltmeter or test light, check if the small wire to the solenoid has power when key is held in start position-in crank position. There should be battery voltage there when the key is turned to crank. If so, the starter or solenoid is bad. If no power there to solenoid, power is lost somewhere between ignition switch and the starter wire.
Have your battery tested to start the fact that the radio and lights work are not an indicator that the battery is good. if in fact battery is good and you hear a click and nothing else then make sure you got power at starter from ignition switch and power going to the actual starter motor while some one holds the key in the crank position. Do this safely. the starter should have power on the B+ terminalwhich comes directly from the battery. It also gets power when in the crank position to engage the solenoid in the Igniton terminal when engaged the power from B+ is tranfer to the the starter motor which in turn turns the engine if this isnt happening for you replace the starter
Hi Ken, Is the vehicle cranking (the engine turning when the starter is engaged or does nothing at all happen. If its the latter, I believe you have a problem with the battery. Get a friend to help with an jump start (Positive to positive and negative to negative) and then crank and it should start. If the engine turns but fails to start, when the ignition is turned on, do you see the engine check light with all the other warning lights. If not open the hood and replace the ECU fuse nod then try again. If you see the light, let us know and we can go on from there. Regards John
Hello I have simular problem the ignition on is stuck in that position with the key turned off and out of the ignition switch.It feels like the key switch is spinning freely in the ignition. Do I need an ignition switch?
You should have two "wires" going to the starter. One (bigger cable) will have positive voltage all of the time. The other (smaller) will have positive voltage only while the key is turned to "start." If you have both of these, your starter is bad.
You can try this to verify that the starter is good or bad.
StarterTestingStarting System Voltage Drop TestsNOTE: The battery must be in good condition and fully charged prior to performing this test.
There are three area of the starter motor circuits that voltage drop test can be performed on. These include:
Disable the fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay.
Verify that the vehicle will not start.
Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the case starter B+ terminal.
Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to the lug (the starter M terminal) that connects the starter solenoid to the starter motor.
Turn the ignition key to the START position and note the voltage displayed on the voltmeter.
Ideally, there should be no more than 0.2 volt drop across the starter solenoid displayed on the voltmeter.
In general, there should be no more than a 1.0 volt drop throughout the entire starter motor feed and ground circuit. Any voltage drops measured in either the feed or ground circuits after connections have been cleaned will require replacement of the affected battery cable. Typically, any voltage drops measured in the solenoid are repaired by replacing the starter motor.
I looked at all the steps for replacing the blower motor...they should not have messed with anything that would have affected the operation of the starter.