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Temp Gauge Reads Hot all the time and no heat

Temp Gauge reads hot, no heat in car, yes fan comes on and I changed the thermostate and added coolant. I also burped the rad too.
Help I have to save this car.

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  • Anonymous Feb 09, 2009

    Engine heats up normally but keeps rising up to the hot end. I DO have heat inside the car. The fluid in the overflow resevoir appears cool while radiator seems hot and the fan comes on.

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    same as above

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  • 7 Answers

Air sometimes gets trapped in the heater hoses or heatercore itself pull the upper heater hose off the block,hold it in the air and try to fill it,that should push the air out of the line

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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Double check the fluid level again, other option is a blocked heater core

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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  • 137 Answers

SOURCE: Temp Gauge Reads Hot all the time and i have heat

as soon as you turn it on after it has been shut off for how long? you could have a bad sensor. if you have a sohc (single overhead cam) engine you have a coolant temp sensor. if you have a dohc (double overhead cam) engine you have a cylinder head temp sensor. either way you will need to start with everything cooled off, drain the coolant, remove and replace the sensor. for the sohc engine you have to remove the ignition coil to get to the sensor, for the dohc you have to remove the alternator. in both engines you are supposed to torque the bolts that hold the sensor in place to 89 in-lbs, tight enough to not have a coolant leak at that point, and not so tight that you stretch the bolts or break them off in the block. if you still have a problem after you replace the sensor then you probably have a bad water pump. hope that helps.

Posted on May 26, 2009

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Fans not turning on and replaced the coolant temp sensor? Coolant in reserve but not in radiator?


why do you have ? on facts? odd that.
my guess replaced ECT ! not ?
my guess, doing so , now engine is full of air, and not fails.
as all do.
front RAD cooling FANS, right? (not heater blower )
it don't work like you think, ? huh?
what does" not in Rad "mean? with ? marks?

means you trust the silly side tank and not look in rad? fail you will.
when doing cooling service, learn read a book first.
read how to fill and burp your engine, Just like feeding a baby it is.
is engine overheating?
did it , has it, or ? , what started this saga, tell a full story?
and WIN !
Facts: on this system.
the fans are controlled by the computer brain, under a complex set rules now. it's not some mindless switch like days of old.
sorry!
ill now answer for USA 03, how ours work,
ONLY!
ours has one fan., (not fans)
ours has a 3 speed fan (at rad back side.)
and has rules to run all 3 speeds, via 3 relays
the PCM/ECU decides this, based on if A/C is on or off.
and a complex set of rules (uses the ECT for this magic)
Fact 2: ECT will not work with air pockets !!!!
The PCM even turns on and turn off are not same temp!!!
Rules:
1: Rad must be filled of AF/ 50% antifreeze cold, to the top neck of RAD filler.
2: rad and engine burped of all air pockets, ask it's same on all cars.
3: the ECT must work, right, if air pockets there, it CANT work.
4: park car, idle until the minimum engine time is reached parked.
about 180F, but all cars overheat if parked, idling and fan stays dead.
fan is off , and at some point, the fan goes to low speed.

this varies by engine option, but is around 225F. (stage1)
THE FSM covers these checks, and rules, and temps. for all 3 stages of fan speed.
scan the pcm yet>?
got P0128 DTC? or others, for temperatures wrong,
not scanning is a big mistake on all modern cars.
big time!
yes, rad must be full parked cold, yes, yes, yes...
side expansion tanks do fail. for many reasons. ask.

a 2.0L engine. only, here. 7.4quarts cooling cap.
here is ours. usa fan. a 4 wire fan it is....
the ecu controls it using SOFTWARE, (firm-ware in truth)
26098393-rlcj0qgtvzvpudyok3p1nj5o-4-0.jpg do not drive car until all air is burped out of engine and rad.
DO NOT!
in fact run it idling to hot. 180f. ( too hot to touch long)
, kill engine with key.
let cool, to luke warm, or cold.
check rad level. (sure its low)
top it off, cap it,
repeat 3 times, before driving or if it holds levels.

Feb 17, 2016 | 2003 Suzuki Aerio

2 Answers

I have a 02 Grand caravan that has new radiator, termostat, one new fan. the temp gauge goes up to max hot the drops right back down in seconds. what could be the problem?


it could be you have an air lock in the cooling system
remove the rad cap from the rad, start the engine and let it run until the coolant drops (add to fill it back up) or until the coolant boils out of the rad spout.

maybe pull the heat sensor. -replace it OR clean it off, reinstall it.

Mar 12, 2015 | 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan

3 Answers

I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING FROM ENGINE HEAD CHECK PRESSURE TEST RADIATOR REPLACEMENT, THERMASTAT REPLACEMENT, WATERPUMP REPLACEMENT. THE COOLING FANS KICK IN, AND THE CAR STILL RUNS HOT ...WHAT'S NEXT?


ok , but no engine stated. which one>??
hot = lying dash gauge or real hand held pyro IR gun? a $20 tool.
did the scan tool ECT reading show too hot, Yes/no.

no new cap, really?
is the cam timed right?
is the spark timed right.?
is the ECU stuck in limphome mode? (huge heat to cylinder walls)
thermostat not upside down.
or thermostat not with bleed hole up hill trapping air below
making it lie and the dash gauge lie too, (the gauge can not measure air, period)

id not do squat with no IR gun. not me. its super accurate too.
and dirt cheap and saves burned hands,
and finds clogged rad tubes saving useless $250 new rad.
one tool. use it. and win.


i this this dang I6 engine, that loves to trap air?
had 3,now, over 500k miles on them. 1988 to present.
and never overheated but once, pin hole in heater core hose
ran bypass and drove home.
i have a 08 wrangler 6sp, 3.8L v6 , nice rig. easy to fix too.

there are 2 parts. (3 really)
engine make too much heat, (limphome or timed wrong)
air in system.
cooling system.

the rad pressure test pass and the green/blue test passes

no water in engine oil
no oil or carbon seen in the engine coolant , all places look.

how hot, ??????
200f
260F
280F"?
numbers matter, in all ofscience. they talk to you.
at what exact temp did the fans, kick in,?
the FSM shows you this, and how to do that. how to make sure the
fans kick in happen, RIGHT. some are 2 staged with A/C.
not just kick. (when)

Aug 29, 2014 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Over heating on gauge, both fans on rad.


I would say check your coolant level, and change your thermostat. And see if it is high fans or low fans when they come on. There is a fan control relay down on the drivers side frame right under the air box that goes bad too if your fans arent working quite right to check if all else.

Jul 25, 2010 | 1999 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Temp. gauge reads high some times. but the motor really isnt hot


It sounds like the coolant temperature sensor is beginning to fail. It is highly unlikely that the in-dash gauge is a problem. The coolant temp sensor inputs to the computer affecting everything from radiator fan speed, engine fuel/air calibration and a variety of other parameters.

Be absolutely certain to "burp" every bubble of atmosphere from the coolant system too. Air bubbles have the amazing ability to prevent coolant flow and will cause all sorts of problems, especially if the bubble wants to hang around the temperature sensor location.

Normal operating temperature is going to be around 210 F.

Most Autozone, Advance locations will read engine problem codes at no charge, so drop by one of those locations and let them read the problem code.

My guess will be the coolant temperature sensor. Then have the problem code reset, remove all air from the coolant and let us know how this worked.

Mar 11, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Impala

2 Answers

Changed thermostat and added coolant but 1997


could be waterpump?
i was going to say rad fan,but if so heater would be hot.
lack of coolant will make heater core to blow cold,if engine heats up with full coolant,usually means poor or no circulation.
water pump?
run engine with full coolant,at operating temp.with rad cap off and look in rad cap hole and see if there is movement of water inside rad.
[rad fan will not come on if water is not circulating through rad water pump?]

Dec 20, 2009 | 1997 Chrysler Cirrus

1 Answer

Temp Gauge Reads Hot all the time and i have heat


as soon as you turn it on after it has been shut off for how long? you could have a bad sensor. if you have a sohc (single overhead cam) engine you have a coolant temp sensor. if you have a dohc (double overhead cam) engine you have a cylinder head temp sensor. either way you will need to start with everything cooled off, drain the coolant, remove and replace the sensor. for the sohc engine you have to remove the ignition coil to get to the sensor, for the dohc you have to remove the alternator. in both engines you are supposed to torque the bolts that hold the sensor in place to 89 in-lbs, tight enough to not have a coolant leak at that point, and not so tight that you stretch the bolts or break them off in the block. if you still have a problem after you replace the sensor then you probably have a bad water pump. hope that helps.

May 26, 2009 | 2000 Ford Focus

2 Answers

99 couger 2.5L 6 Cyl-temp gauge maxing out, overheating


I will normally remove rad cap when cool. Start engine, set heater in car to heat & turn on blower, if you use defrost setting, the rad fan &/or AC fan will come on, and you don't want that. Then while running with cap off, make sure coolant in rad is an inch or 2 from top of rad, and let it run. When engine gets to normal operating temperature on the gauge, you'll start to see more flow in radiator, and rad fan should come on shortly after, to cool the incoming hot liquid in the rad, that tells you the thermostat opened as it should, and the process starts again, engine coolant gets to temp, thermostat opens, hot goes to top of rad for cooling, and cooler liquid goes out the bottom to engine, etc etc. If your heater is not on while doing this, the coolant doesn't get to heater core in most cases, thus creates an airlock, or will cause level in rad to go down when it is turned on, and thus reduces amount of coolant in rad, plus airlocks in the entire system. So, let it run to the point that the rad fan comes on & off on it's own, about 3 times, while you watch the gauge, to make sure it doesn't overheat, if it does, shut it off and let it cool down & try again. if all appears good, top rad up if needed to an inch or so from top, put your cap on properly, add coolant to proper level in return bottle & try it and see what happens. Remember though, I am assuming thermostat was put in correctly, rad in good shape, fan is working properly as well as water pump doing it's job. If this method doesn't work, get back to me with results.

Feb 16, 2009 | 1999 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

Heating problem


Yes that is cool if it's correct. 195 F is approx.as low as you should have. I'd change it. Be sure to run with cap off, and heater on (not defrost) while refilling system. Wait for rad fan to come on 2 or 3 times before you put cap back on, then add coolant to return bottle as needed. Make sure rad fan only comes on when up to normal running temperature. If it runs all the time, it may be causing low coolant temperature too.

Jan 25, 2009 | 2004 Pontiac Montana

3 Answers

Coolant system


If your coolant level is dropping, I would suggest that you take a good look at the water pump. That is a very common coolant leakage probelm area on your vehicle. I change 2-3 a week.
Hope this helps.

Jan 18, 2009 | 2000 Toyota Camry

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