Question about Oldsmobile Silhouette
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: cv half axles
I have done the front CV half axles in my '96 WRX and did not require a special tool, mine was an Auto, but I suspect a manual car is similar. Firstly, while the car is on the ground, unlock the lock tab and loosen the main hub nut - it can be very tight. Then lift the car up off its wheels and use stands to make sure it is safe and won't fall on you - I have a hoist which is really nice. Take off the wheel, brake caliper (I hang this by a piece of wire from the spring, saves disconnecting and bleeding the brakes) and take off the disc. Take off the main hub nut. Then release the two strut to hub carrier bolts and then knock them out. Note that they are slightly different - put them back the way they came out. The hub will now hang down on the bottom ball joint. At this stage you should be able to push the drive shaft back out of the hub assembly. This is not easy, but I managed to do mine. If this cannot be done then I guess you would need to take the hub off completely by releasing the bottom ball joint. You now have the drive shaft hanging down from the gearbox. The shaft is on a spline. Inside the gearbox on the end of the spline is a radial groove on which sits a wire ring. I assume this is to stop the shaft falling out. As you pull the shaft out, this wire ring comes up against a taper in the gearbox which is supposed to compress the wire ring into the groove and allow the axle to come out. Sometimes this does not happen easily and you will need to **** it out. If it wont come out because the spline or the wire ring is damaged you have a major, major problem which I can't help you with - Gearbox disassembly I suspect. Anyway, that should have the shaft sitting on the floor. The axle shaft pulls out of the CV the same way (spline, wire ring thing). Assembly is easy, but in the reverse order. Use the factory torque settings for all the main nuts/bolts. A few things: get the wheel alignment done after the job. If you cannot get the disc caliper back on the disc, use a "G" clamp and gently push the caliper pistons back into the caliper a bit which will allow you more room between the disc and pistons. If you do this, you will need to gently pump the brake pedal a couple of times to restore the pedal, it will go straight to the floor on the first application - don't find this out on the way out of the shop!!!! Be prepared to loose some skin and get very dirty. If possible, when you have finished, get someone else to check all the bolts for tightness, leaving some of these loose could cause a serious accident.
Hope this helps
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
the light bulbs are not replacable unless you can solder, you have to replace the complete instrument cluster, get one from a junk yard 100 bucks.
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
SOURCE: Replacing my CV Axles
Hi, your axles on the metro are actually called half shafts, any larger name parts house can order them for you. Call them with the Make, Year, and Model and they will take care of you. you will need to tell them,drivers side or passengers side. Hope this helps!
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
Answers to questions such as these may already have been answered in here under the same vehicle of a different year. In this case I have previously given the following answer for a 1998 Esteem/Baleno.
"If I remember correctly, to remove the RH shaft from a manual version of this car, you don't actually need to remove the part of the shaft that comes out of the gearbox. For an auto, you may have to, but see what it looks like under there, and you'll soon know. With either trans, you'll have to undo the main drive shaft nut (after un-staking the nut with a narrow chisel) and this is easier with 2 people - one to stand on the brake pedal, the other to jump on the breaker bar. This is a normal RH threaded nut - just really tight. Next, the nut has to be removed from the horizontal bolt that goes through the bottom of the RH steering knuckle just above the suspension arm. Once the bolt is removed, you can push down on the suspension arm to disengage the ball joint from the knuckle. Now would be a good time to remove the clip retaining the hydraulic brake line to the strut to avoid stretching the brake line. Next, turn the steering wheel fully to the left, and while pulling the front of the disc outwards as well, tap the drive shaft inwards with a soft (copper or nylon) hammer. If the shaft hasn't rusted in place, this will be easy. If it has rusted, you'll know fairly quickly, and the job has just got a lot more complicated. I won't cover the "worst case scenario" here as it will get messy! Once the outer CV is disengaged, it's just a question of removing the inner CV. For a manual, the inner CV slides onto a splined shaft that runs almost the length of the engine sump and is held into the gearbox by a bracket bolted to the engine block with 3 bolts. These don't need to be removed. With your soft hammer, tap outwards on the inner CV joint while your helper keeps tension on the shaft while rotating it. This will probably be the shaft removed from the car. If your drive shaft is one piece all the way to the gearbox, then you will actually need to lever the inner out of the (auto) trans - also while your helper turns the shaft. Unless you drain it, you will lose some oil when the drive shaft comes out of the box. The manual filler plug is on the other side of the diff, and autos need to be filled from the trans dipstick tube (check while running). A hoist makes this job very much easier."
Balenos or Esteems were available from 1995 - 2001 depending on market of course.
Posted on Jan 08, 2010
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