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Pull the hand brake. Block the rear wheels and transmission in neutral. Jack up the front wheels, first rotate the right wheel and if it slightly resists, its normal.Similarly check the left wheel also. If any one of the front wheels is hard to rotate, remove the Tyre and service the caliper assembly by greasing the pins with graphite grease. Also check the piston of the caliper assembly if it is not stiff. If so, free it up or replace the caliper kit with a genuine one on both sides. Always service both the front and rear brake system simultaneously.
If both the front wheels are jammed, the probable cause is the brake master cylinder assembly which need to be replaced with a new one.
If both of the front wheels are found to be normal, lower the front wheels and lift up the rear wheels. If any of the rear wheels are found to be partially of fully jammed, readjust the rear brake system or hand brake cable.
if the front are rotors there are two bolts that need to be taken off first.
remove the caliper, then remove the two caliper bracket bolts and remove the rotor
replace the rotor and reinstall the caliper bracket.
pull the caliper sliders and lube them with brake grease.
reinstall caliper sliders and install new pads and caliper
refasten caliper to bracket and your done
if your doing rear disc brakes same as front
if brakes are drum type you will need rear drum brake tools to release the springs and to refasten
the new brake shoes
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Clip, 2 caliper pins, the anti-rattle spring then remove the 2 brake pads and the 4 anti-squeal shims
CAUTION Only replace brake pads on 1 side of the vehicle at a time. Failure to use this procedure could cause the caliper pistons on the opposite side of the vehicle to pop out requiring the reconditioning or replacement of the brake caliper.
Remove a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Install a used brake pad into the caliper and compress the caliper pistons.
Apply disc brake grease to both sides of the inner anti-squeal shims.
Install or connect the following:
Anti-squeal shims to the new brake pads NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.
2 brake pads
Anti-rattle spring and the 2 caliper pins
Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.
Jack truck up, remove wheel, remove caliper slide bolts (12mm i think), remove caliper. caliper mounting bracket will stay on truck if you are just doing a pad slap, the mounting bracket comes off with two bolts (18 mm i think) remove old pads, compress caliper piston with channel locks or a c-clamp, replace pads, lube up caliper slides with dielectric grease, tighten slide bolts, replace wheel. proceed to other side. Then befor you road test pump the break pedal. Once ya get a look at it, its pretty easy to see what ya need to do. Front and rear ar pretty mush the same.
NOTE: When removing the rear brake disc (2C026) in this procedure it is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic lines. Remove the rear disc brake caliper (2552). For additional information, refer to Caliper in this section.
Disconnect the brake hose.
Disconnect the rear wheel brake hose (2A442).
Remove the copper washers and plug the brake hose.
CAUTION: Do not remove the guide pins or guide pin boots unless a problem is suspected. The guide pins are meant to be sealed for life and are not repairable. Use Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A for re-lubing the caliper slide pins. Other greases can swell the guide pin boots, resulting in contamination and accelerated corrosion or wear of the caliper slide pin mechanism. Remove the rear disc brake caliper (2552).
Remove the brake caliper bolts (2W303).
Lift the rear disc brake caliper off the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate (2C220).
Inspect the rear disc brake caliper for leaks.
If leaks are found, disassembly is required. Refer to Caliper in this section.
NOTE: If the rear brake disc binds on the rear parking brake shoe and linings, remove the adjustment hole access plug and contract the parking brake shoe and lining. Remove the rear brake disc.
CAUTION: Use a hub-mount brake lathe if necessary to machine the rear brake disc. Measure the rear brake disc, and resurface as necessary. Install a new rear brake disc if beyond specification.
The most over looked culpret and is also a good possibility could be a brake hose that is deteriating on the inside of the hose or frozen or un-lubricated slide pins. Not just any old grease will do. You you need caliper grease for the pins. The grease has to be able to withstand the heat and not break down. You don't want to go overboard with the grease either because it will collect brake dust and gum up. A light coat is great. If the caliper is able to be compressed back into the caliper with the bleeder valve broken loose then it's likely you have a bad hose. Replace hose and bleed brake system starting from the right rear brake, then left Rear, right front and finally left front. If it doesn't back off check the slide pins for ware and that they function and are not frozen up. Do you see any wet fluid leaking from the caliper or on the brake pads and rotor? I have a 1 ton Ford Diesel that the Rt Front caliper wasn't backing off until I broke free the bleeder valve and found that it was not the caliper, but the hose was bad, the slide path was all rusted and the slide pins were shot. Replaced for hose, slide pins, wire brushed slide path, and greased slide pins and path with caliper grease. Bought a small bottle of brake fluid to bleed the brakes. Total caost was aprox $25.00. New caliper for my truck would cost me $64.00 plus core charge for the old caliper. I had to change out my calipers in the rear as well so that's how I know the cost saved. If you have those little shiney clips that the pads ride on (top and bottom) you need to pop them off and knock loose any rust, brake dust and dirt and then clean up the clips with a wire brush. What happens is rust (usually) bubbles up under the clip and makes the clip raise up slightly. You can't really see the clip raised up but the tolerance is so close that the pads will actually bind up on the bubble and make it seem like the caliper isn't releasing. Depends on what style you have.