Question about 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe
Thanks to a deer, I need to replace the front right fender of my 99 Chev Tahoe. Is this do-able for the average guy with a garage? Or do I need to call in the high priced help? I don't see screws so I think the fender must be welded.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Front fender removal
Hiya... here's the details of fender removal/installation:
the left-side (same for right-side) fender has 6 bolts attached to the "sidebody" frame.
The bolt location:
3 are on the top fender-easy to find when hood is open,
1 is hidden at the rear of top inner fender-just open the left-front door wide to find it (early equinoxes had foam-like noise absorber material in it, just remove it from underneath fender after the wheelwell liner is removed),
1 bolt is hidden at bottom of front fender area at headlight/bumper area-you need to remove plastic wheelwell liner to gain access,
1 bolt is hidden at bottom of rear fender area where the black plastic rocker panel meets below the fender...
THIS area is probably the most difficult task to do since it requires you to remove a small bolt found on the front of rocker panel behind the front-left wheel then use a flat screwdriver or clip removal tool to pry open the black plastic **clip's 'dime-sized' head prior to pull out the clip's body (it has 8 clips underneath the chassis) then use your hands to grasp the rocker panel underneath, pull it down-toward you...this should do it....USE CARE during rocker panel and clip removal/installation so you don't break the clips!
It also has yellow plastic clips inside the rocker panel (used as a guide during installation into rocker sill holes-use caution not to break it)
**note: early equinoxes had rocker panel clips that you can actually pull it out from the hole, while later equinoxes has 'built-in' clips inside rocker panels that you don't see the clip heads below it due to engineering part design change**
Be sure to exercise care when handing this task!
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
you have to completely remove door panel. make sure all switches are disconected. and its tricky ti get hands in but it can be done.
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
is the latch from the interor car broken, or the locking mechenism to release the hood not working?
Either way its a simple fix just requires the hoot to be open.
Posted on Nov 06, 2009
the blower motor resistor is below glove box. remove panal under box. slide the pcm out of the way, resistor is beside blower motor. unplug wiring, take out screws holding it in then pull straight out to remove.
Posted on Jan 05, 2010
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
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