Charger won't charge just power light comes on no output!!

The electric choke requires additional power to operate which is why it needs to be charged before the engine will start. Without the electric choke, the engine will not receive the proper amount of fuel needed to run properly. To fix this, you will need to replace the electric choke with an aftermarket unit that does not require charging.

Have a read of this.

https://www.chargerforumz.com/threads/uuconnect-usb-hub-not-working-fixed.183649/

It is a known issue

https://www.google.com/search?q=2010+dodge+charger+sxt%2C+the+power+supply+and+lights+on+the+center+console+won%27t+work

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battery or charger failure

Check the battery leads (wires) to see if any are loose or broken or corroded. Clean corrosion or repair leads. Have someone who owns a multimeter check the output of the charger plug.

He said his battery charger is not working, this has nothing to do with the car not starting or charging? So if anyone can recomend what he needs to do to get his battery charger working would be helpful to him.

start with the battery and make sure its charged and ok..then go to fuses and look there some vehicles have fuseable link wires in the system that fail due to corrosion and overloading..check all cables connectors and wires for burnt or broken issues.. get a battery charger and connect it to the car if now power anywhere..see if the battery is dead or needs replaced entirel..see if lights work when charger connected..if so battery needs charged or replaced..good luck..repost please thnx

Those are all really common symptoms of the alternator going bad on those cars. I would have it checked to make sure it's charging properly.

You need to charge your battery up more. Either get a battery charger or leave the jumper cables hooked up for a longer period of time.
Your battery was probably completely dead. You might even need a new battery...they really don't like to be completely drained.

The first thing you need to do is stop wasting your money by replacing parts. Then get a volt-ohm meter and a test light to test the circuits between the battery, the alternator, the ignition switch, the starter relay and the voltage regulator. (a.k.a. Charging System Circuits)

To start, the "B+" or "BATT" terminal on the alternator (large black wire) MUST have a solid, direct connection to the battery. Check for the proper voltage here. Then, the red wire on the alternator at the "F2" terminal should be HOT at all times. If not, you probably still have a bad fuse link that you missed. The "F1" terminal on the alternator (Light Green wire) is known as your "FIELD" wire. It comes from the "IG" terminal at the voltage regulator. It should be hot any time the key is in the ON position. If not, your voltage regulator is not working or your ignition switch is not providing power to the regulator. Finally, The "F" terminal (Red wire) at the regulator should be hot any time the ignition switch is in the ON position. This actually gets it's power from the starter relay, which gets its power from the ignition switch.

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