Question about 1999 Suzuki Grand Vitara

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When i leave my grand vitara on idle it pumps all coolant out of the rad into over flow bottle

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 641 Answers

Is your cooling fan coming on? Make sure that it is. If not check fuses, relay and fan. The fan should come on and draw air through the radiator to cool the coolant if this isn't happening then the vehicle will overheat and as the coolant expands in an effort to relief the pressure the valve on the radiator cap will allow coolant to exit the radiator and go into the reservoir. This would be a good time to service your thermostat and change the radiator cap

Posted on Jan 19, 2013

  • 10 more comments 
  • laura_foley Jan 19, 2013

    my fan is ran by the belt rad not that long in and only done thermostat about 10 months ago

  • Hector L. Morales Jan 19, 2013

    My apologies the mobile version did not give me make and model. Is the belt well adjusted? Is the fan clutch locking up once it gets hot?

  • laura_foley Jan 19, 2013

    no the van is fine the heaters only work if your driven or if its on fast idle

  • laura_foley Jan 19, 2013

    fan

  • Hector L. Morales Jan 19, 2013

    I wasn't referring to the heat or the blower motor. Your cooling fan has a viscous clutch which locks up once it heats up. If the vehicle reaches operating temperature and the fan clutch doesn't lock up to drive the fan it may make the vehicle overheat at idle. Going down the road the vehicle will not over heat cause air is forced through the radiator to cool the coolant. It is my understanding that the vehicle overheats or coolant come out of the reservoir only while idling. This leads me to believe that there's an issue with the fan. Also make sure the system isn't air bound.

  • laura_foley Jan 20, 2013

    is there a way to bleed them ill look at the fan in mornin but think its on the hole time

  • laura_foley Jan 20, 2013

    how would you bleed them dont think there is a bleed screw and i think the fan is on the hole time

  • Hector L. Morales Jan 20, 2013

    The fan will turn all the time you're right but will spin faster when the viscous clutch engages. At idle if the clutch doesn't engage it allows the fan to slip and will not turn as fast therefore it won't draw enough air. Make sure there are no leaks make sure the vehicle is cold before removing the radiator cap. Top off the coolant if necessary and and run the vehicle with the cap off. Watch for air bubbles or water hammer effect. Once once the bubbles stop put the cap back on. Make sure you have a good cap as a cap that won't hold pressure will raise the boiling point and will cause vehicle to overheat. It will also allow coolat to exit the radiator into the reservoir.

  • Hector L. Morales Jan 20, 2013

    This is the clutch

  • laura_foley Jan 20, 2013

    ok ill try that and get back to ye

  • laura_foley Jan 21, 2013

    fan is workin could it b the rad

  • Hector L. Morales Feb 05, 2013

    What fixed it? What was the problem?

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SOURCE: Tick over/idling speed

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Posted on Apr 09, 2009

fixyathing
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SOURCE: temprature guage go's into the red

so your radiator is new...have the cylinder head check for warpage and top head gasket leaks...this one of the common causes of overheating

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

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SOURCE: Engine coolant for 2010 Suzuki Grand Vitara. What

USE ANY COOLANT MARKED "EXTENDED LIFE/LONG LIFE" PRESTONE IS GOOD

Posted on Mar 09, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have water leaking into both drivers and

Does it have to do with the AC. I had a similar problem with my vitara and they said a washer was prob loose in the ac system which would cause the water to leak to the footwell. Mine was only the passenger side.

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

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1 Answer

I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport no heat but the fan works,what could the problem be?


Could be that the thermostat has packed up...

Check all your coolant levels are correct and then take her for a good run out....keep your eyes on the temperature gauge,,if your temp gauge hardly moves then your thermostat is at fault....replace it.

If temp gauge works fine, you may be airlocked in your heater matrix... Try setting heater to full heat with fan on full power,, whilst car is ticking over, remove radiator / expansion bottle cap carefully and start squeezing your coolant pipes. This should force any air out through your rad/bottle top..

Please be aware that as your temperature rises in the engine. Your coolant will expand and start to flow out of the rad/expansion bottle..at this stage quickly replace the cap....check your heater...leave engine to cool....unscrew rad/bottle cap, check coolant levels, top up if necessary and squeeze pipes again..start car with heater/fan on full and repeat above.....

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Sounds like it's air locked. Too much air trapped in system. You could try opening the heater hose connection or any point that is highest, with engine OFF. Top up as much as possible in radiator (not overflow bottle) then close the connection. Leave rad cap off and start engine, allow to warm up. (put heat on full, fan on 1,) gently rev up engine, 2,000 rpm, and note drop of fluid level in radiator, keep revs up while topping off radiator as much as possible, close rad cap before allowing to idle. Hopefully this should do it, otherwise youll need a vacuum pump to do it properly. That would be very unusual for a standard production car.
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Start the engine when cool, remove rad cap and start engine and let it run with the heater on. (not defrost) Top up coolant as needed in rad, and let it run until either the rad fan comes on and off 2 or 3 times, or you can see increased flow in rad from thermostat opening. It will obviously happen after it reaches operating temperature, so watch after gauge gets close to there. Wait until you see that flow 2 or 3 times or fan comes on and off before you put cap on, and fill return bottle to proper level as well. That should cure it, by getting air out of system, and coolant flowing through heater core.

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Did you re-fill coolant with heater turned on ?(not defrost) Leave rad or coolant return bottle cap off when engine cold, and turn heater on and add coolant as needed to keep level up. Let engine get to normal operating temperature, and wait for rad fan to kick in and out, indicating thermostat has opened, and coolant is circulating. Let that fan kick in 2 or 3 times and keep adding coolant as needed, and check heat periodically to see if starting to throw heat. When your getting good heat, put cap back on, top up return bottle, and you should be good. I suspect an airlock in heater core. I don't see the year anywhere so I'm guessing you have a rad cap, and if that is the case, leave it off as described, and watch for increased flow in rad when it gets up to normal operating temperature, which tells you thermostat is opening. Watch for that flow, 2 or 3 times, and you should be getting heat by then. If that isn't cure, get back to me with more info on year, engine etc. Keep me posted on your progress.

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Just leave rad cap off, make sure heater is turned on (not defrost) and let engine run until rad fan kicks on and off 2or 3 times, which indicates thermostat has opened and coolant has flowed through rad, or watch in rad for a good increase in flow, when up to operating temperature, which would mean the same thing. Top coolant up during, as needed. After that, put rad cap back on, top up return bottle to proper level, and you should be good. Be patient though, it could take a half hour or so from start to finish.

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1 Answer

Good day sir, my radiator leaks coolant from under the radiator whenever i put on my a/c and it runs for a while. it started with the coolant bottle boiling & over flowing. please i need your help


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1 Answer

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