Question about 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

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Heater only blows cold air vent blend door working fine

My heater isnt blowing hot air

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  • Ford Master
  • 2,292 Answers

Here we go.
Raise the hood and remove the radiator cap.
Start the car and heat up the engine, usually takes about 5 minutes.
Turn on the heater full blast.
At this time, be sure your radiator is full of coolant, because a low radiator will drop the coolant so low the heater will get no water, it could be "air-locked".
If the collant level is low, add coolant and run the engine at a medium speed for 5 minutes to "burp" the air out of the heater hoses.
Feel the heater hoses to see if they are hot. They should be.
Feel the radiator hoses to see if they are hot. They should be.
If the radiator hoses are not hot, you may have a defective thermostat, it it might be stuck open.
If so, the heater would not get hot, because the motor is not.
If the radiator hoses are hot, and the heater hoses are not, likely the hot water is shut off to the heater.
There is likely a control near the firewall that is either controlled by a wire cable or a vacuum line.
This control valve has 2 heater hoses connected to it, one incoming and one outgoing.
Often, the wire cable or the control valve itself will stick due to rust or corrosion, or disuse.
If it is vacuum controlled, you may not be getting vacuum to the control valve, or again, the control valve may be stuck closed.
Sometimes these controls can be freed up with penetrating oil, sometimes they are too far gone to repair, must be replaced.
If you can fix it with penetrating oil, you may need to do that once a year.

Posted on Jan 19, 2013

  • Edward Helinski Aug 18, 2013

    to check the heater control valve, if it is in the open or closed position, disconnect one hose going to the heater control valve. attach garden hose, turn on water, and fluid should come out the other end. of the hose you disconnected.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: heater is blowing but its cold air not hot air 2000 expedition

Make sure the heater core is in the open position by using the shut off valve and turning it to open. next, you may have a malfunction in the direction door the directs the air flow in the dash. a lever may have become lose or separated. may be a bad servo motor not directing the door to move to the heater position. i would start by checking that shut off valve first on the heater core.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

BCAS1298
  • 3092 Answers

SOURCE: my ac blows hot air from the front vents

Expansion valve or orfice tube clog.to front unit.

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

vmhreha
  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: air condition/heater

sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:

  1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
  1. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:

  2. the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
  • the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
  • the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
  • the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
  • the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
  • the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
  1. Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
  2. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
  3. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
  4. Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
  5. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: ford ka heater blows hot air all the time

Taurus does not use a heater control valve. It runs coolant thru the heater core constantly. You may have a temp blend door actuator problem or a plugged up heater core is also very common. Feel the heater hoses, they should both be very hot, it one is much cooler; you can try to back flush the core.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

moparownr
  • 667 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Ford Expedition XLT, front blend door actuator

Hope I was avle to help, glad you up and going.

Posted on May 27, 2009

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