Question about 2005 GMC Yukon Denali

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A test with a multimeter shows that the mbec fuse is drawing power when my truck is off. My battery goes dead every night. Why is this?

Used my multimeter to do a dc10A test. Put it inbetween the positive terminal on the battery and the positive cable. It was sitting right around 2.5 amps but when i pulled the mbec fuse it went down to .35

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 182 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 GMC Jimmy excessive parasidic draw on battery

Is the alternator charging properly.

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

stormbrewin
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 GMC Yukon Denali XL -intermittent dead battery

The wiper should not move regardless of battery change as the wiper switch should have isolated it.It seems to be the only ,as you say,strange thing and would be inclined to believe that that is the probable cause of your fault.Do like your testing method and hope you track the fault down.Good luck and happy new year.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Dead Batterry. High current draw with ignition off.

My 2002 GMS Sierra draws a simaliar amount of current.(.52 A). There a two items which draw current all the time on my truck. One is the OEM security system and I also have a wirless auto start unit. Both of these have a continouse draw on the battery. I've installed a high current marine battery switch to isloate this load if my truck will not be used for more than two weeks. Otherwise, the battery will be ecessivley drained. Regards, Jeff

Posted on May 03, 2009

BCAS1298
  • 3092 Answers

SOURCE: New battery went dead. Alternator tested with

No that's good alternator voltage, you could have a defective battery or if it don't start after sitting for a whole could have an elec. draw, if this is the case disconnect the neg. terminal and hook a test light at cable end and the pointer at battery if test light lights up you have a draw, remove dome light fuse and light bulb under hook, start pulling one fuse( under the hood and on the side on dash ) at a time and keep an eye on the test light when light goes out that's the problem, check that circit.

Posted on Jan 08, 2010

wireguy212
  • 1627 Answers

SOURCE: Electrical Problem - dead battery

Sounds to me like you may need a new rectifier put in the alternator,a shorted diode in the alternator could be powering up things that should go dead with the key in the off position.To prove this,instead of pulling the fuse,take the plug out of the alternator and if all is well,you have your answer.

Posted on Jun 09, 2010

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Charge overnight and the charge runs out without ever being used??


If the battery is good
You have a parisitic draw somewhere:

Switch your Digital Multimeter to DC AMPs. Amps is usually indicated by an "A" on the Multimeter Switch. AC is usually shown as a "~" symbol and DC shown as a "-" symbol. You usually have to move the Multimeter positive lead to a separate socket on the Multimeter. Sometimes there are 2 sockets, a high range and a low range. Always test on the highest setting first. For example: high setting on your multimeter may be 10 Amp. Test on the 10 Amp setting first, then if the current drawn is less than your Multimeter Low setting, move to that setting and keep testing. In my example my Multimeter low setting is 0.3 Amps. Also indicated as 300mA (mA x 1000 = A).

WARNING! Once the multimeter is on Amps do not connect it directly across the battery and do not hit the starter button while testing for current Amps. This will cause the internal fuse in the multimeter to blow! A multimeter set on current is a very low resistance, almost a short circuit and will draw as much current as your battery will supply till something melts. Always plug the Multimeter leads back to volts when you have finished testing to avoid blowing the fuse next time you use your multimeter.

Voltage ReadingTo test for battery drain: Switch everything off on the car. Disconnect just one battery lead. For example disconnect the Positive Battery Lead. Set your Multimeter to Amps as described above. Connect the Positive Multimeter Lead to the Battery Positive terminal. Make sure the Positive Lead you removed from the battery does not touch anything grounded, like the car frame etc…. Connect the Negative Lead from the Multimeter to the Positive Lead you removed from the Battery. You should now see current drain measured in Amps. Move to the lower Amp setting on your multimeter if the current is lower than the setting on the Multimeter Low setting. Start to unplug the wires or fuses around your car and see if the current reading goes to zero. This will point you in the direction of the current thief. You can convert to Power measured in Watts by multiplying it by the Battery Voltage. Power = Volts x Amps 4.2Watts or (12Volts x 0.35Amps).

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1 Answer

Battery new over night goe,s dead 1996 Chevy lumina


I would suggest getting a muleteer with a 10amp current option. Pull all the fuses and relays. Disconnect the negative battery cable and place the multimeter inbetween the negative battery post and the negative cable. You may get a small amp draw for the computer. Start replacing the fuses and monitor the amp draw. If you have an excessive draw when you first connect, it probably is an alternator issue.

good luck.

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1 Answer

Car


charge the battery then remove the negative cable place a test light between the battery and the negative cable if the light is bright you have a draw remove fuses one at a time til the light goes dim then thats the draw you might also need to unplug and remove the wires from the alternator to see if the diodes inside failed

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Have the alternater checked. The voltage regulator may be sticking and leaving an open circuit.

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Something pulling battery down on 1990 olds 98


You may need to test for a parasitic power drain, for example a horn switch that is stuck closed causing the horn relay switch to stay on continuously even if the wire was unplugged from the horn.

You will need multimeter to test for a parasitic power drain.

1. With the key off, disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Connect the black multimeter test lead to the negative battery post, connect the red test lead to the negative battery cable.
3. With the meter set to the DC milli-amps scale note the current draw displayed. If it is over 20 mA, there is likely something drawing power that shouldn't be.
4. Leaving the meter connected have an assistant pull fuses one at a time (replacing them before pulling the next) until the meter reading drops. The circuit that this fuse powers is where the problem most likely is.

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2 Answers

New battery went dead. Alternator tested with multimeter and is putting out just over 14V and Battery shows 14V while running. Could it still be the voltage regulator?


your alt has six diode in it they are one way check valves for current one or two of the diodes have went bad since you checked with a multimeter you only check chargeing it will show a charge, but will not check diodes and they will drain your battery,I hope this helps you and please vote on this

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1 Answer

2001 expedition 5.4l. wont crank


get a multimeter and test battery output, if more than 13v when you turn key to crank position if below then battery may be faulty and not holding charge, check starter relay and fuse, if ok also check for any parasitic draw from any accesary that might draw down battery when engine not running

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Over night the battery is dead


Put a 12v test light between the positive terminal and the battery cable.If the light is bright the draw is to much.A dim light is fine.if the light is bright,plug one fuse at a time until light dims.DO NOT cause a draw by leaving a door open etc while testing.DO NOT try and start the car or turn the key on during this test.Once you have found the fuse that causes the most draw,if you want to save $ you can just pull this fuse overnight or wire that circuit with a relay to unpower it when the vehicle is switched off.

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