Question about Ford Escape
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Power Locks
i didn't figured out what the problem is... you say that the doors was remove and you installed new... so what the problem is? i can't search for an answer for you because there is no question or specific problem.
Posted on Jun 23, 2008
These directions might sound a little goofy. I'm trying to orient your
location with front and rear rather then left and right because it
depends on which door you are working on. Front is towards front of rig
and rear, oh I think you get it.
1. Close window on door. 2. Using a flat screw driver pop off trim under inside door handle. I think there is a groove in the plastic to which the screw driver can be inserted. Remove screw. 3. Using same screw driver pop off trim panel with door lock and window control switches. Start lifting from end located at panel closest to the front of the rig. The panel towards the back end has a pivot point which holds the back of the panel into the arm rest. Dis-connect the two switches from the trim panel. 4. Again, using flat screw driver, pop off the trim pannel located at the upper door/window frame nearest the back of the rig. Remove screw. 5. Lift up the door panel to remove. Be careful the light bulb is attached to the door panel. Rotate light socket 90 degrees and remove. 6. From the rear of the door pull back the platic stick-on barrier. Don't remove the whole thing just pull it leaving about half of it towards the front of the door stuck on. 7. Remove the one 11mm bolt, located towards the bottom of door, which holds the rearwindow guide. Don't remove the two 11mm bolts which hold the horizontal brace. Nothing else needs to be removed, leave all rods and attachments in place. They all attach the the door latch and are not of any further concern.
8. Now the easy part. The actuators and door latches are separate components. The actuator slides onto the door latch via two metal guides located on the door latch. The actuator is held into place with a plastic locking tab. The locking tab is part of the actuator housing. 9. This tab has to be pushed in to release actuator from latch. 10. Find on ouside of door - rear where the latch fingers? (I don't know what else to call them) are located in the notched door frame. At the bottom of the notch is a very narrow opening, just a ****. This **** allows access to the locking tab on the actuator. 11. Orient the screw driver in the end of the **** closest to the interior. Working on a right door, looking at the locking fingers, facing the front of the rig, your screw driver would be inserted at the left side of the ****. Pushing a flat screw driver into the **** will push the locking tab allowing the actuator to slide off the door latch. 12. A flat screw driver or other small pry tool can be inserted between the actuator and the door lock to help slide the actuator off the metal guides. The pry unit can be inserted where the rod from the interior manual door lock stem is attached. Mine had a yellow snap/flip keeper. 13. The actuator slides off from the interior towards the outside door panel. 14. Simple put pressure onto the locking tab with one screw driver and gently pry with the other one and the actuator should slide right off.
15. I picked up an actuator at a u-pull it wrecking yard for five bucks and it worked fine. Dealer wanted $90.00 and auto parts wanted $127.00. When I pulled my actuator from the wrecked rig all door panels and interior where stripped. It took me literally 20 seconds to pull the actuator. 16. To install new unit slide actuator onto door latch rails and let locking tab click into place. You might have to manually move the interior door lock stem up and down until the finger on the actuator lines up with a hole on the plastic part of the interior lock stem.
16. I Want to thank TommyRox in Texas on Ford Truck World and rivguy on automotiveforums.com for their posts.
Posted on Jun 23, 2008
This is a problem with the alternator. Diode rectifiers and voltage regulator replacement will give this baby a 14.2 voltage output. In this 3L V6 SUV removal of the alternator requires removing the right tire, the right axis and undercovering to reach the 6G alternator. It is a 133mm rectifier with a motorcraft, The serpentine belt is better removed from the bottom. Also keep a bucket on hand to recover the oil from the transmission.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
Had same problem on Ford Escape, Could not unlock the rear liftgate or window, if you can open you are in better luck.
If it is locked and closed, you will have to pull the top portion of the plastic trim away from the liftgate, it is held in place by metal retaining clips on top, and four screws on the bottom, if you can open, remove the screws then remove the rest of the panel, if unable, pull the top of the panel just far enough to reach in and unlock the liftgate.
Once you have the gate open and the panel off, you will see the locking actuator connected to the electrical connetion, it is a little bit smaller then a pack of cigarettes with a black lever.
To remove you will need to remove the two outter 10mm nuts holding the "brass" colored assembly, you will probably have to disconnect the two lever connections to get to the back side of the brass assembly, once this is done, you can use a T-20 torx to remove the locking actuator, part number stamped on my part was 4510 5424 made by KIEKERT although a search of this part didnt give me any good results, anyway, that was the cause of my problem, once replace and all put back together everything worked fine.
Posted on May 10, 2009
I just want to know if there is any manual to disarm the lift gate and check for the problem. Currently my door is lock and cant open, how you force it to open?
Posted on Dec 04, 2009
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