Question about Chevrolet C1500

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It has a bad mis and running rich dark foul smelling smoke what's wrong? 1991 chevy v6 s10

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  • Chevrolet Master
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Possibly a faulty injector for the miss but if you have a head/headgasket problem it would account for the exhaust. Do a compression test and radiator pressure test to eliminate that area of concern

Posted on Jan 19, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: 1994 Chevy Astrovan. v6 . Running very rich, black smoke.

If this van uses flow meter? If does, replace it.

Posted on Jul 09, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 75171 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 chevy lumina will hardly run

DTC - 22 Throttle position sensor error (signal low), is tps connected?
DTC - 23 Intake air temp sensor error (low temp indicated) check and make sure the sensor is connected
DTC - 43 Knock sensor error, ignore this for now, will not cause rich run.
DTC - 53 System voltage too high, check reference voltage from PCM, it should be around 4.5 Volts, this could be the cause of all your problems, the computer will need to replaced almost for sure.

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 toyota 3L V6 Overfueling, raw fuel pouring out exhaust pipes

check if your O2 sensor is working that is the thing telling computer how much fuel to put into motor it is on pipe close to motor your O2 sensor tests how much oxygen is pipe while running and tells to increase or lean back fuel

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I HAVE A 1993 CHEVY S10 BLAZER RUNS GREAT BUT NOW

I pretty much had this same problem what your problem is going to be is more than likely you have a pin hole leek in one of the fuel lines inside the plenum .

Posted on Jan 11, 2010

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 chevy s10 4.3 v6 new rotor and cap new spark

Check your knock sensor, and timing.

The distributor is controlled by the computer and springs, I can't recall but I don't remember seeing springs in there. Regardless, check anyways to see if there is any binding to your counter weights in the distributor.

Start with finding out why your check engine light is coming on, this way there is no expensive guessing work. Here is a link for you to retrieve the DTC codes and post me back. Be glad to help you get your S-10 running 100% again soon. eek.gif

http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
Recheck your timing and you'd notice more difference if you increased your static timing advance from the stock setting of 10 Deg BTDC to 15 deg BTDC or so. Be sure when you adjust timing to disable the ESC circuit according to the manual. Otherwise the timing will be off scale and you won't even be able to see where it is with a timing lite.

The connector you're looking for is located in the passenger footwell, sometimes covered by the carpet/floor mat. It is a black connector, that has a tan/black wire in each side. Disconnect this wire and you will be able to see the base timing.

The ECM will control the timing with that wire connected. When it is disconnected the timing advance is controled strictly by the ICM (Ignition Control Module) located on the base of the dizzy.

How to set:
The vehicle emission control information label, which is found underhood, will often contain specifications or procedures for checking and adjusting timing that have been updated during production.

Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels, then warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Shut the engine OFF and connect the a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug (right front 2.8L engine, left front 4.3L engine or front plug on in-line engines):

If using a non-inductive type, connect an adapter between the No. 1 spark plug and the spark plug wire; DO NOT puncture the spark plug wire, for this will allow a voltage arc.

If using an inductive type, clamp it around the No. 1 spark plug wire.
If using a magnetic type, place the probe in the connector located near the damper pulley; this type must be used with special electronic timing equipment. Do not under any circumstances pierce the insulation of a spark plug wire in order to connect the timing light.

Clean off the timing marks, then label the pulley or damper notch and the timing scale with white chalk or paint for better visibility. If the timing notch on the damper or pulley is not visible from the top, the crankshaft should be bumped around using the starter or turned using a wrench on the front pulley bolt, in order to bring the mark to an accessible position.


Model vehicles equipped with EST, the electronic spark timing must be disabled or bypassed to prevent the control module from advancing timing while you are attempting to set it. This would obviously lead to an incorrect base timing setting.

There are 2 possible methods of disabling the EST system, depending on the type of engine:

On 2.5L engines, ground the "A" and "B" terminals on the ALDL connector under the dash before adjusting the timing.

On all other engines using the EST distributor, disengage the timing connector wire. On a few of the earlier model vehicles, the 4-terminal EST connector must be disengaged from the distributor, but most later model vehicles are equipped with a single wire timing bypass connector.

On these later model vehicles the bypass wire is usually a tan wire with a black stripe. This wire usually breaks out of the wiring harness conduit adjacent to the distributor, but on some vehicles it may break out of a taped section just below the heater case in the passenger compartment.

Start the engine, then check and adjust the idle speed, as necessary. The idle speed must be properly set to prevent any centrifugal advance of timing in the distributor.

Aim the timing light at the timing marks. Be careful not to touch the fan, which may appear to be standing still. Keep your clothes and hair along with the timing light's wires clear of the fan, belts and pulleys. If the pulley or damper notch isn't aligned with the proper timing mark, the timing will have to be adjusted.

TDC or Top Dead Center corresponds to 0° mark on the scale. Either B, BTDC, or Before Top Dead Center, may be shown as BEFORE on the scale, while A, ATDC or After Top Dead Center, may be shown as AFTER.

Loosen the distributor base clamp locknut. You can buy special wrenches which make this task a lot easier on certain models. Turn the distributor slowly to adjust the timing, holding it by the body and not the cap. Turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation to ******, and against the direction to advance.

Once the timing is properly set, hold the distributor to keep it from the turning and tighten the locknut. Check the timing again after finishing with the nut in case the distributor moved as you tightened it.
If applicable, remove the plug and connect the distributor vacuum hose.
Shut off the engine and reconnect the EST wire (if equipped), then disconnect the timing light and tachometer. biggrin.gif

Also you may want to inspect the EGR to see if it's stuck, which may be causing our issue when the engine is under load.

Posted on Apr 19, 2010

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What causes P0172 how to fix truck is runing bad please help


Hi Gerard:
White smoke can be an indication od a bad head gasket.
Are you losing engine coolant?

If you remove the spark plugs and find bad fouling that will confirm the problem cylinders. Then I would suggest doing a compression test..

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I have a 1991 K-Blazer that we rebuilt a high output jasper engine for that came out of a 1984 Caprice, it keeps fouling the plugs after only running for a short while


EGR valve sticking or bad vacuum leak, might be a place to start. I presume the ECM, control module are functioning properly?

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I have a 1994 Chevy C1500 w/ 4.3 liter and my plugs are fouling out about every 500 miles or less and everything else maintanence wise I've replaced resently. Can someone give an idea on what need


Does the truck run right? Does it smell real gassy, fuel mileage go south? If it is fouling plugs that fast it either has to be burning a lot of fuel or oil. Is there a check engine light on? Engine wore out, burning a lot of oil. Fuel injector stuck, using a lot of gas. Air filter dirty, making it burn way rich. I would think this truck would really smell bad if it is fouling out the plugs that fast.

Jan 21, 2012 | 1995 Chevrolet C1500

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Cold or hot start to give white smoke smell like feul


white smoke indicates it is caused by water or anti-freeze entering cylinder, if in radiator or overflow, it will look like a chocolate milkshake. check on oil dipstick fo traces of water or anti-freeze present. also check or replace coolant tempurature sensor. it may be bad and sending wrong info to pcm. good-day ! if these do not help. change fuel pressure regulator. if sensor is bad, it will run to rich not enough of air ( to much gas )

Jul 23, 2011 | 1993 Toyota Camry V6

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Running rich, smelling rich


You may have a bad fuel injector or in need of a tune up badly. The early fuel injection (throttle body) had a single fuel injector that would clog and not spray fuel in a mist but would dump fuel. Does it run rough at idle? That is a good indicator. Some are rebuildable but I would suggest replacement. If you have not had a tune up in a while that should be done too.

Jan 24, 2010 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix

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I HAVE A 1993 CHEVY S10 BLAZER RUNS GREAT BUT NOW IT IS RUNNING RICH THE ENGINE IS NOT BURNING THE FUEL RIGHT I GOT SPARK JUST TO MUCH FUEL THE EXSHAUST IS BLOWING WHITE SMOKE AND SMELLS LIKE FUEL BAD,I...


unplug thr coolant sensor ifitsone with the plastic top try to move it with your fingers if it turns slightly ittl be bad,
even thou to besure do a voltage check,a feuel presure test can't huurt,last but not least an injector balance test

Dec 12, 2009 | 1993 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer

1 Answer

1994 Chevy Astrovan. v6 . Running very rich, black smoke.


If this van uses flow meter? If does, replace it.

Jul 09, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Astro

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98 jeep grand cherokee black smoke


Either your too rich and gas is getting by the piston rings going into the crankcase(oil pan)or you have a defective fuel pump (even if it is new!!)IT'S one or the other!!Running the car very rich for a period of time will have fuel in the oil!! I run mind rich for the nos and smell gas in the oil when draining it and only have a few passes on the motor with the nitrous,but runs extremely rich at idle because the timing is backed way down and running a colder plug causes a rich condition!! Plugs will foul quickly also!!

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