Replaced brake rotor on driver side new pads,pads and caliper on pass. side, bleeded brakes. Did not bleed rear. Master cylinder is full. Unpluged fluid level warning switch from master cylinder light went out, could it be the level warning switch in the master cylinder ???or something else.
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Re: 1996 T-100 dash brake light will not go out
The brake fluid level sensor in the master cylinder is stuck in the lower position which completes the circuit to illuminate the light.. Try tapping lightly on the side of the reservoir to loosen it. If that does not help, you will need to replace the level sensor.
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your on the right track just make sure person on the brake pedal is holding them to the floor when you open bleeder and its closed all the way before the pedal is lifted, repeat till all air is out and you have a good stream of fluid coming out. and make sure your bleeding from furthest wheel away from master cylinder =1 passengers side rear,2 drivers side rear 3 passengers side front 4 drivers side front make sure you reset proportion valve just below master cylinder a rubber plug ,push it all the way in you'll know you got it when brake lite on dash goes out. I really hope this helped ,IF IT DID LET ME KNOW.
Hello their, you have answered your question 100%, if you can rebuild the calipers it would save you money instead of getting new/rebuilt ones, and just bleed them normally, then apply to fixya to become one of us :)
Its probably how your bleeding your brakes, but first make sure the bleeding nipples are facing upward. You should bleed diagonaly, front pass wheel then rear driver wheel. Then front driver wheel and rear pass wheel. The abs light has its own computer your have to get it scanned to clear the codes and turn off the light
your inside pad wore out first do to a bad caliper or frozen slide or brake hose.remove brake hose off the caliper and see if you can turn the wheel.if you can replace hose and bleed caliper.if wheel still doesn't move buy a loaded caliper,this will come also with new slides!and then bleed
The binding of the brakes is causing the pads to overheat, which is causing the smoke. You need pull the wheel and check things out. Your caliper must be bad (not releasing). You need to replace the caliper, brake pads, and have the rotor cut (a full service parts store or shop cuts the rotor perfectly smooth on both sides), or replaced (it may be cheaper to just buy a new rotor). You should also always change the pads (and check everything else) on the opposite side. So, if u do the brakes on the driver side front, always do the front pass. side at the same time, likewise if u do rear brakes. Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines (by bleeding the brakes) until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. Old brake fluid is the #1 reason for caliper failure. I've seen many times people replace brake components w/out changing the brake fluid, only to have the brakes wear out very quickly, or not function properly. good luck! hope this helps> please rate this!couontrycurt0
crawl underneath the front and look at the caliper if it has a duel piston caliper you will see 2 circles about 3 inches across and if it is a single piston caliper it will only have one of these circles in the middle this iswhere the pistons are. yes those pads are suitable. As for bleeding the brakes you need to start at the passengers side rear wheel and bleed it first then go to the drivers side rear wheel then go to the passengers side front wheel and then finally the drivers side front wheel. If you are only replacing the brake pads and shoes then you don't need to bleed the brakes. If you are bleeding the brakes then you will want to be sure to top up the brake fluid as you are doing thebleeding process as if you don't you will end up having to start all over again. as for special tools you may need a 3/8 hex bit and a 8 inch " C " clamp to compress the calipers after you remove the brake pads. If you are replacing the rotors you may require a special socket fo dis-assebleing and re-assembly of the front hubs.