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Hi, have you looked for the slave cylinder on the bell housing (Gearbox) follow the pipe from the Clutch fluid reservoir down to it, there should be a bleed nipple usually 8mm possibly 10mm. Find a length of good rubber pipe which will slide onto the nipple, open the bleed screw and put the other end of the pipe into a jar or receptacle to catch fluid. Go back to clutch fluid reservoir take off cap and fill to brim.
Then wait until gravity feeds the slave cylinder, when drops of fluid are seen in the jar/receptacle close the bleed screw. Pump the clutch when you feel resistance hold the pedal down and get someone to open bleed screw, whilst still keeping clutch pedal down close the bleed screw. Keep doing this until your pedal operates with full pressure. KEEP AN EYE ON FLUID LEVEL in clutch master cylinder. When done top to the correct level and replace cap. Hope this helped.
I really need more info such as...Mileage,did you do the job yourself,if so was the slave cylinder and or clutch master cylinder changed and did you bleed the system..?...So I will explain without knowing,,...Before a clutch wears completely out we find ourselves constantly working the clutch pedal stressing all clutch system components..In most cases I have looked closely and found slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder leaking ..however the slave cylinder can wear out without leaking..Most importantly the fluid itself wears out every 15 to 20,000 miles.. You don't notice but the fluid gets thousands of tiny air bubbles in it and makes the clutch weak and spongy..(Same with brakes)..You should always bleed system with an assistant just as you would a brake system..,This alone will cause the problem you are experiencing...If you already know that and you have bled the clutch system then you know the slave cylinder is at fault..(UNLESS THERE WAS SOME TYPE OF MISALIGNMENT WITH RELEASE BEARING....YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CHANGE RELEASE BEARING WITH FORK WHEN DOING A CLUTCH SERVICE..)...I assume you did...I would inspect for leaks..,Bleed it again if no leaks...If that don't help and no leaks are found change slave cylinder and or master cylinder.....I hope this helps........Brooks/Metalpoet.......
Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.
it could be either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder,it could also be the clutch pressure plate check the master & slave cylinders first because if it's the pressure plate the gear box will have to be removed to replace the pressure plate, even if you are uncertain it is most likely cheaper to replace the master & slave cylinders than it would be to replace the pressure plate.....hope this helps......cheers.
The clutch is operated hydraulically, and there is no adjustment. If your problem is that the clutch will not disengage or is hard to disengage you may be low on fluid or have air in the line. There may be a leak either at the master cylinder or the clutch slave cylinder. Bleeding the slave cylinder may restore pedal pressure. If the problem is that the clutch engages high on the pedal the problem is likely a worn clutch disc.
FIRST REMOVE ALL OLD FLUID FROM CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER YOU CAN USE A SIPHON YOU HAND PUMP.AUTO PARTS STORES SELLS THE HAND PUMP SIPHONS. THEY DONT COST MUCH AND KEEP FROM MAKING A MESS.SIPHON OUT MUCH AS YOU CAN THE OLD FLUID IN THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.THEN POUR IN THE NEW FLUID DOT 3 BRAKE FLUID IN CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.OKAY YOU NEED A HELPER.LOCATE THE SLAVE CYLINDER.REMOVE SLAVE CYLINDER HOLD SLAVE CYLINDER 45 DEGREES WITH BLEEDER SCREW LOCATED AT THE HIGHEST POINT.HAVE A SMALL DRAIN PAN UNDER SLAVE CYLINDER.HAVE HELPER FULLY DEPRESS AND HOLD THE CLUTCH PEDAL THEN OPEN BLEED SCREW.CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW AND HAVE HELPER RELEASE THE CLUTCH PEDAL.REPEAT THIS PROCESS UNTIL ALL THE OLD BRAKE FLUID AND AIR BUBBLES LEAVES THE HYDRALIC SYSTEM AND WHEN YOU CAN SEE GOOD STREAM CLEAN FLUID NO BUBBLES YOU HAVE GOOD SOLID CLUTCH ALL IS GOOD.MAKE SURE THROUGH THE BLEEDING PROCESS YOU DONT LET CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY OR YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER.KEEP CLUTCH MASTER CYLINER FULL BRAKE FLUID WHILE DOING THE WHOLE BLEEDING AND FLUSHING PROCESS.
on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.
Hydraulic Clutch System BLEEDING
The clutch system can be bled using a pressure bleeder. Follow the instructions that come with the pressure bleeder for the proper pressure bleeding procedure. The maximum line pressure while pressure bleeding must not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).
NOTE: To bleed a clutch manually requires the assistance of a second person, a section of hose that is compatible with brake fluid (preferably clear) and fits the slave cylinder bleed screw snugly and a container to catch the fluid that is bled through the system. As brake hydraulic fluid easily absorbs moisture, always use fresh fluid when bleeding a hydraulic system.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
To bleed the system perform the following:
Top off the hydraulic fluid reservoir using a fluid that meets the standards of the vehicle's hydraulic system.
Open the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold the pedal down.
Close the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
Release the clutch pedal.
Check the hydraulic fluid level and top off as necessary.
Repeat the above steps until the discharged fluid is clean and no air bubbles appear during the bleeding process.