Question about 2001 Chrysler 300M

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I have a 2001 300m, when I put on brakes It takes a while to change gears to drive

When I have to break for a light or stop sign It is hard for my car to start driving again. It was scanned at a shop, of course they said it was the transmission, but I'm hoping that it is something less than an expensive transmission problem. What are some other things to look for?

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  • 3,103 Answers

Is it engine power, or stuck brakes or do you need a fluid and filter change on the transmission? repost please

Posted on Jan 19, 2013

  • Deloris Saulsberry Jan 21, 2013

    Hi Jerome, I haven't tried your solutions yet , I'm going to change the fluid and filter on the transmission, I believe this is going to work. I will keep you posted on the outcome. Thanks for all the suggestions.

  • Deloris Saulsberry Feb 19, 2013

    Hi Jerome, My car is on the move again. I told my neighborhood mechanic what to do and he did it. He changed the filter, flushed out the trans oil. Thanks for your help. I saved a whole lot of money that I didn't have.



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Transmission down shifts hard

Check the trans fluid for quantity and color. If it is not a good red color, try having it changed and get the filter cleaned. If that looks okay, you may have a bad shift solenoid. Look for leaks around the trans case. Leaks on top around the solenoid are a sign that it is going bad.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 334 Answers

SOURCE: Hard shift, lost of all but one grear when hot.

hi . yes you can add a tran cooler.and most cars have them. they are usely in front of the would be a good i dear to chang the tran oil . and when you do add louc tran oil trement it will halp with the tran shifting ok.and heating up . good luck

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: 2008 Chrysler 300 sporadic electrical problem at ignition

sounds like a short or loosening wire somewhere - have any "after- market" accessories been added ??? new stereo or amp ?? check these item and there wiring if so. It could also be the ignition switch itself......unfortunately - you may have to wait for a permanent failure to find the cause

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

  • 158 Answers

SOURCE: Car acts like its in neutral when I put it into drive or reverse.

assuming you have checked the trans oil and it is full, it sounds like you need to take it to a good trans shop and have it looked at. it could be something simple or something major and expensive

Posted on Feb 11, 2010

  • 2019 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Chrysler Town & Country

P0700 Internal TCM
P0732 Gear Ratio Error in 2nd
P0733 Gear Ratio Error in 3rd
P1782 2-4 Pressure Switch Sense Circuit
P1784 L-R Pressure Switch Sense Circuit
P1787 OD Hydraulic Pressure Switch Circuit

But I am afraid I can't tell you want all these codes mean for your car. It was probably not related to the change in fluid that was performed. However, it is serious and should not be driven until fixed. Risk of total destruction of the transmission is too great. I would assume the symptoms are so diverse that it may be a bad transmission control module. Which is about $200, and fairly easy to replace:
But there are other possibilities, such as a bad relief valve could be letting main pressure drop too low.
This is the type of thing which does require an expert and can't easily be done remotely.

Posted on Sep 09, 2010

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Dec 19, 2008 | 1998 GMC Yukon

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99 Olds silhoutte stalls when you apply on the breaks.

Sounds like your power brake booster is bad internally. That booster works off of engine vacuum and when you have a vacuum leak your car will run very badly. The booster uses engine vacuum to help push your brakes and when your booster doesn't work your brakes will be almost very hard to push. The car will stop but everything just feels like something isn't right. There is a tube going to your brake booster from the engine. One way to check for a bad brake booster is to remove that tube from the brake booster, pinch or seal off the end of that tube with something other than your hand. Start the car. The car should idle WAY too high at this point because of the "meantime fix". If you were to drive the car with that tube clamped off it would run better but your brakes would still be hard to push. The woosh you hear when you press the brakes is a sign of a broken diaphram inside the brake booster and when you hear that the engine is loosing vacuum and will run very badly at that point as noted by your stalls when you apply the brakes. I understand the no money part of your problem. If it were me, I would put the tube back on the brake booster and then I would take a small set of locking pliers and lock the clamp of the pliers across that tube and that will stop the brake booster from loosing vacuum but would still allow you to drive without stalling but be aware the brakes will still be VERY hard to push. As I said before. they will work but you will have to apply more pressure to the peddle because there will be no power assist function going to your brakes.

Please be aware, try this temp fix at your own risk. The true fix for your problem is to replace the brake booster.

Much good luck!

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