Automatic choke broken on puegeot 106 - Cars & Trucks

Procedure #1-

1. Be sure the hook on the bimetallic spring contacts the choke shaft lever.
2. Install the cover and retainer and lightly tighten the screws.
3. Turn the ceramic element to align the mark on it with the middle mark on the housing.

~~~ Procedure #2-

1. The engine must be cold to make this adjustment.
2. Remove the air cleaner.
3. Find the automatic choke. It's the round thing on the upper right-hand of the carburetor. There is a wire coming to it from the positive side of the coil.
Note: The automatic choke is a round ceramic thing with the heating element wound inside of it. (The ceramic part may be covered with metal so that it looks just like the rest of the carburetor.) The choke is held in position by a triangular ring clamp and three screws so it can be loosened and rotated for adjustment.

4. Pull the throttle arm on the left side of the carburetor down to free the little step arm (cam) that the screw at the top of the throttle lever rests on.
Note: This stepped "cam" is connected to the butterfly valve inside the throat of the carburetor by a shaft that extends all the way into the automatic choke. With the engine cold, the butterfly valve should be closed. As the engine warms up, the coil inside the automatic choke uncoils, opens the butterfly valve, and moves the cam to reduce the idle speed.

5. Release the throttle arm so that the return spring snaps it back. The little screw at the top of the throttle arm (again, with the engine cold) should now rest on the top step of the stepped cam. This sets the hi-idle, which is needed together with the choke on a cold engine to provide sufficient idle speed to keep the engine running until it warms up fully.
6. Loosen the three screws on the right side that hold the choke in place.
7. Keep your eye on the butterfly valve in the carburetor throat.
8. Turn the choke element clockwise (viewed from the right) until the butterfly is standing straight up, then turn the choke counterclockwise (viewed from the right) until the choke butterfly fully closes (barely -- not too tightly), then tighten the three screws that hold the choke in place.
Note: This is important; the automatic choke may be assembled wrong and not catching the hook on the coil spring at all.

9. Start the engine with the air cleaner off. As the engine warms up, make sure that the butterfly opens until it is standing straight up (full open) when the engine is fully warm. If it doesn't, readjust the choke until you get it right.
Note: The engine is now warm, so you won't be able to adjust the choke per the foregoing. Note the position of the notch on the side of the choke relative to the three little ridges on the body of the carburetor. If the butterfly is too far closed with the engine warm, turn the choke clockwise just a bit to straighten it up. The notch on the choke should never be too far outside of the three ridges on the body of the carburetor. If you are not able to adjust the choke using these method, something may be sticking, or perhaps the coil spring inside the canister is broken, or perhaps the wire has fallen off of the contact on the canister so that it is not getting power from the battery properly.

Disassemble dashpot on automatic choke and remove and clean linkage. With engine cold adjust automatic choke so that it just touches closed on throat of carb. With engine at operating temperature, Choke plate should be straight up and down in the throat of the carb. Automatic chokes are seldom the problem that you have described Vacuum leak maybe?

Newer cars do not have carburetors. If your enigne has one, the "choke" plate is the topmost flapper-looking thing on the carburetor. Benath that is the throttle plate, which moves whent he acceprator pedal is pressed. The choke shoudlbe closed automatically when the engine is cold. If thengine is warm, the choke plate should be slightly closed. The engine design includes the necessary mechanism to operate the choke funtion automatically. If that has failed you can choose to repalce whatever is broken or cobble together a "throttle cable" to it so you can manually operate the choke function form the driver's seat. In the old days the cable would be secured to the dash justy above your left knee. Doubtful you will find such a "choike kit" in the autp parts stores these days sicne there are so few carburated engines around, but you should now have an idea as to what to do.

Yes, spring may have broken or maybe it just needs adjustment. There is a high idle cam that makes the card idle higher when the choke is closed or partly closed.

HI KEVIN.oil from breather is no a good sign.sound like back pressure.but if there is no smoke any where give an engine flush and clean all return hoses and mesh filters.good luck.ali

We do not have this make in the US market so have no info on it. very sorry.

First of all we need to know if the vehicle is automatic or manuel? if its automatic then you can ad oil through the ****** dip stick hole and if the vehicle is manuel gears then there is diffrent oil and a diffrent place to put the oil in. Donot put gear oil in power steering.

i presume its a tu engine!? these are very good engines and have been known to survive a broken cam belt. i would try one on it before replacing any valves mate

if this helps let me know
cheers
big mike

if the choke is automatic find out if it runs on vaccum or if its electric. if vaccum make sure there is no broken vaccum lines if its electric check to see if it has power going to it.

Hello, when you say that the auto-choke is "on", you mean that the choke plate is stuck closed on the carburetor. This causes an overly rich fuel mixture and fast idle and other problems as you have hinted at. There is a wire that runs from the black cap on the left side of the carburetor that runs to the alternator. On my Festiva, the wire is red in color and its the only wire coming from the black cap with a bi-metal spring inside. You need to check the wire for a short circuit and to test if voltage is getting to it from the alternator. My guess would be that the wire came loose or it is not being powered by the alternator. So get a 12V test light and test the wire leading to the choke spring cap to see where the break in the wire is. Run a continuity test from one end to the other and look for 0 Ohms for a good connection. If you have continuity and good current, then I would say that your bi-metal spring it broken in the choke cap, so you can replace the cap by removing the 3 screws or rivets and replacing it with a new one.