Question about 2004 Chrysler Sebring
It starts great for about 2 weeks then it won't. I will have it towed and it starts up no problem. I have a new battery, my 2nd new starter, and today a new ignition key. I just got towed home.
Whens the last time it had a tune-up. You may have a bad cap or rotor, a bad module or a short somewhere.
Posted on Jan 19, 2013
Testimonial: "Thank you, I will see my mechanic, a tune-up was done in August 2012"
My car has a problem like that. It was loose screws inside the distributor on the coil wires.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 16, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I assume you've checked all connections from the battery and starter to make sure they are clean and tight. It is a little weird that you do not have trouble starting in neutral yet you get a clicking sound in park. My first thought would be the neutral safety switch on the transmission but you shouldn't even get a click in park if that is bad.
One possibility is the contacts in your starter have worn down and are causing too more resistance (explains the clicking). At the back of your starter is a metal cover that is held on by three tiny bolts (6mm). Disconnect the battery first! (You might have to remove the starter to get to this part) Remove this cover and pull out the plunger assembly. Underneath are two brass plates. Compare one plate to the other. If one is noticeably thinner then it could be the cause of the clicking. You will even see a round groove in the plate. You can buy the plunger and contacts from this website: http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html or you can opt to get a starter from your friendly auto parts store. The first picture shows the bad contact on the left. Notice the groove, the metal has become really thin there. This picture shows a pitted plunger assembly. Always good to replace it too.This picture shows all the new parts installed.
Posted on Aug 20, 2009
SOURCE: Car ran fine earlier today.
Sound like a starter go to bad or died. You can do a few tests to diagnose a starting system problem without
any tools or measuring equipment. Turn on the headlights and start
cranking. If lights go out, you probably have a poor battery cable
connection that is impeeding the flow of current. Start checking battery
posts and battery cables for tightness and corrosion. A very thin film
of oxide between the terminal and cable clamp can choke off most of
current. Clean battery posts and cable terminals. Make sure all
connections are tight. Also check connections to the starter and
solenoid and engine-to-chassis grounding cables.
If headlights continue to shine brightly and nothing happens, voltage is probably not reaching the starter. Usual suspects here include a problem with the park/neutral or ignition circuit switches.
If lights go dim and the cranking action is sluggish, first suspect a low battery.
Starting problems especially in cold weather on a system that worked well last summer can often be traced to a weak battery. Sub-zero temperatures can cut a battery's amperage output by more than half. Check out the battery condition. If the battery checks out okay, look for a locked or dragging starter, a starter with high internal resistance, worn brushes or open circuits in starter's windings or armature. Additional details in this link: how_to_test_a_starter_motor.
Other posibilitie, the ignition switch.
Keep us updated.
Posted on May 06, 2011
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