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Points and plugs - 1993 Oldsmobile Bravada

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Points? Not since electronic ignition, about 30 years ago! I have a '79 Datsun pick-up, first year Datsun came out with fully electronic ignition. Chrysler first came out with electronic ignition, I think, and that was in the early '70's. Since then, points have become a thing of the past, and deservedly so. Thus began the transition from mechanical to electronic controls.
Plugs, yes. Points, no. Am I big help? Or post back. Cheers.

Posted on Jan 19, 2013


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Wanting to know gap settings for plugs and points for 92 corolla hatchback

There are no points, the ignition is electronic, and is controlled by the ECU,

The plugs are gapped to 0.8 mm

Dec 18, 2016 | Toyota Corolla Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Any opinions on what's better electronic ignition or points .what are the pros and cons to both of any

electronic ignition will beat points hands down any time
to understand this you will need an explanation of how each works.
with a points system there are a set of points , a condenser and a coil
when the points are closed the current flows through the coil windings and produces a field flux
when the points open this field id collapsed and that produces the high voltage for the spark ( understand that current has mass and when the points open the current still flows and that is absorbed in the condenser-- that continuing current flow acts like an arc welder and burns the points )
to make this collapse happen faster the condenser back feeds current through the coil windings and so the voltage is boosted from 12 volts to around 17,000 volts
This relative low voltage induces a high current flow which over a short operating time burns the center electrode of plugs away , requiring frequent plug gap adjustments and plug replacements
problems associated with points include
point gap constantly closing from the wear block being worn away
point bounce at high rpms
coil flux saturation falling off at high rpms reducing the intensity of the spark
water and moisture in the distributor causing loss of spark
on the other hand with electronic ignition there is no points to
get wet
close up
no condenser to fail
points burn
the electronic system works on a much lower voltage ( 5-7 volts) and a pulse that initiates the action in an electronic circuit that is controlled by transistors and capacitors
This allows for a more rapid increase and decrease in the coil field flux and that increases the voltage to the vicinity of 60,000 volts
this reduces the current across the plug gap and that results in longer plug life and no change in plug gap settings ( EFI systems using quality plugs will never need changing of the plugs from electrode loss)
as electronic systems are sealed there is no problem from water as there is with points , although the same problem remains with moisture in the distributor cap
Now we have a low voltage spark with high current flow to ignite the mixture against a very high voltage with low current flow to do the job
to make it even better some electronic systems will actually continue a series of sparks so that the flame in the mixture is continually being ignited as against the one spark from a points system ( the air fuel mixture is not static but continually rotates -swirls in the combustion chamber)
what does this mean
better economy at higher rpms
better burn rate of the mixture producing power for all of the power stroke
smaller coils
with ECM units that control the ignition , it also controls the ignition timing according to rpms , and throttle setting and mixture setting reducing the need to alter the spark timing for different fuel octane ratings and altitude conditions as it is done automatically to suit the reports from all the sensors
So as I said
electronic system win hands down over points every time

Jun 14, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Points gap 305 smal block

Set your points gap using a dwell meter - 30 degrees (range 28 to 32 degrees). Spark plug gap .035"

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How do I time a 350 with accel distributor out of engine?

Cam gear and crank gear have dots on them ,,,, put the gear dot to dot,, one pointing at the other,,,then remove number 1 plug ,,driverside front plug,,,,hold your finger over plug hole tight till the air blows out hole ,,, your close now to the conpression stroke,of number one plug, use a socket on crank shaft center bolt to move the crank,,,have some one turn it with hand to get the piston to up to the top of the hole,, right to the top,,, now get the distributor and get the rotor button pointed strait at the number 1 spark plug hole,,,your oil pump rod slit will need to align to ,,, look in distributor hole and use long screw driver or tire tool to turn the oil pump rod, needs to point at ,,line up with,,,,number one to,,, or real close,,,,,, make sure the disbributor goes all the way down and sits flush on block,,,,make sure vac advance is in 8 oclock position or close,,,,if you get it to go down but its not pointing just right move the plug wires to make number one plug where the rotor button is pointing on cap,,,,should be ggod to go,,,,

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I have no spark on my 1969 Honda 90 passport moped any help??

I believe that this moped has a magnito and it is probably not functioning

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Don't worry about actually pointing toward # 1 cylinder, just the tab under cap that goes to # 1 spark plug wire. # 1 cylinder needs to be at TDC on compression stroke, and rotor pointing at # 1 wire tab under cap.

Jan 15, 2014 | Dodge Ram 1500 Cars & Trucks

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How to strip a electronic distributer to check points

The points just close & ground out the ignition coil
& then the secondary field collapses to the spark plugs

You can see what the points are doing, turning over the

No points in an electronic distributor

Mar 19, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I rebuilt the 350 but now can't get it to start everything is new I don't think i'm getting fire to the spark plugs. the distributor is new and I think I have it installed right.I have gas to the carb. it...

I think you need to re-time the ignition--remove #1 spark plug (front plug on driver's side), place a ratchet and socket on the crankshaft bolt, stick your finger just into the plug hole, and turn the engine CW through until you feel pressure building in the cylinder. At that point, remove your finger and watch the degree marks come up on the crankshaft pulley or vibration damper as you turn slowly. When the idle firing point aligns, stop turning. Open the distributor so that you can watch either the points just start opening or the reluctor tooth just enters the stator match point while you rotate the distributor body. Tighten the distributor clamp lightly. Check that the rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire. If not, shift the wiring in the cap around until it does while maintaining firing order. The engine should run at that point. Use a timing light to get it right on later. Tighten the distributor when everything is right. Hope this gets you running!

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Point and plug gap for 1973 beetle

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