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G200 has died, replaced spark plugs leads and distributor but still will not fire although cranks over easily enough

Plenty of spark at distributor

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  • Alex Petrovansky Jan 19, 2013

    Rotor is turning, power at distributor, spark at all plugs... ?

  • Alex Petrovansky Jan 21, 2013

    I have towed vehicle to a workshop, will find out what is causing the problem and will post results



1 Answer

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 44,416 Answers

Check module unit in distributor for power. check that rotor button is turning and the cam shaft is rotating( Broken timing belt/ chain)

Posted on Jan 19, 2013

  • 7 more comments 
  • Bill Boyd Jan 19, 2013

    next point is the cam turning?

  • Alex Petrovansky Jan 20, 2013

    I believe so, I cannot get cover off to see timing belt, but rotor on distributor turns as the external pullies are rotated. As the distributor and timing belt are at opposite ends of the engine each must be connected by the cam shaft. ( I think)

  • Bill Boyd Jan 20, 2013

    the distributor will be driven by the camshaft and as it is turning the problem is electrical. take off a spark plug ( hold about 1/8'' or 3 mm from a metal part of the engine)and while trying to start the engine see if there is a spark from the end of the lead to the motor. This proves if the electrical part is ok

  • Bill Boyd Jan 20, 2013

    come back with the following info. do you have points in the distributor or is there a 4 sided block passing as set point at the side of the base of the distributor Relation to point or pointless distributor. Helps to assist in closer more accurate answers.t

  • Alex Petrovansky Jan 21, 2013

    No points in this distributor not sure how open and closes work on this distributor

  • Bill Boyd Jan 21, 2013

    You have a pointless distributor. The block under the rotor button passes a small coil in the side of the distributor and that causes a condensor to discharge which generates a spark from the coil. Make sure you have power at the coil

  • Alex Petrovansky Jan 21, 2013

    I have also replaced the whole distributor. and set rotor to match 1st cylinder with TDC and lined up on the timing mark engine block and the harmonic pulley. The engine almost fires but not quite.

  • Bill Boyd Jan 21, 2013

    it appears that the timing is out. REcheck . Set the timing mark to around 10 degrees advanced IE the mark on the pulley on the 10 mark of the cover before tdc Next place the rotor button pointing to no1 cylinder in the dizzy cap. Loosen of the clamp holding the distributor in the head and turn the body until othe nearest point on the cam block lines up directly to the nearest point in the distributor body. This is where the system is triggered same as opening points. What I mean that by looking into the distributor you should see a protrusion that just misses the lobes on the cam block. By setting the rotor button pointing to the lead in the cap you can rotate the dizzy body to make this line up. If you can do this the ignition will be timed close enough to get the engine running

  • Alex Petrovansky Jan 21, 2013

    I have towed vehicle to a workshop, will find out what is causing the problem and will post results



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SOURCE: Replacement of Spark Plug leads, Distributor cap, rotor for T100

I reccommend putting WD40 or CRC on the connections to stop them corroding over time. You also want to make sure the Distributor Cap gasket seals well to keep out water. last make sure you don't get the leads mixed up, best to replace them one at a time. cheers

Posted on May 17, 2009

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SOURCE: distributor cap and spark plug leads order/layout?

The firing order is 1342. The cylinders are numbered from left to right 1234. Depending on wether it is a 16 valve engine, the distributor cap lead number one position is at the front on the left, if its a normal 8 valve engine , the distributor cap lead number one is at the front pointing straight at the front. So, moving anti clockwise, the next lead will be number 3, then 4 , then 2.

Posted on Dec 07, 2009

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Related Questions:

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using a timing light, watch the light on the timing mark and if it is all over the place and not steady on the mark then that indicates a worn shaft and bushes in the distributor
use carbon resistance plug leads that have thick insulation( (not el-cheapo leads ) modern plugs are designed to run carbon leads
run the fault codes as the problem may be in the air /fuel control sensors and not the distributor or crank. cam position sensors

May 07, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Replaced motor and im getting power to the distributor and to the coil packs but it wont fire we have changed the cam and crank sensors and nothing does anyone know how to help please

Without a look under the bonnet sorry hood i couldnt tell you ,yes your getting power to the coils but it may not be sparking due to the immobilisor system as this breaks the earth return circuit ,i think the best bet is to ask a local mechanic to have a look for you ,also you havent stated the year of the vehicle as this can help to decide a answer for a question as vehicles do differ with different years of manufacture although the smae model

Dec 19, 2013 | GMC C3500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No fire in coil pack.

Was the timing chain damaged ?
Did you have spark from the coil before you replaced the other parts ?
Do you have battery voltage on the positive side of the coil with the key on and in crank mode ?
Is the coil wire not sparking, or are you not getting spark at the plugs ?
Is the distributor rotor turning when you crank the engine ?

Jul 20, 2012 | 1994 GMC Safari

2 Answers


It could be the distributor cap, that is, where the spark plugs are coming from.

Definitely do a test for spark at the plugs. Remove one of the plug wires from a plug and hold it near grounded metal. (If the plug end has a long insulated shroud, you may have to improvise to get ground close enough to the end of the wire.) Have someone crank the engine while you watch for spark. If you get an 1/8" or so of spark, that should be enough to fire.

If no spark, it can easily be the cap, look for damage to the cap. Check the distributor cap inside for signs of cracks or carbon arc tracks. Also, check to see that the little carbon contact for the center terminal is in place; without that you can have spark but it won't get to any plug wires!

Good luck!

Apr 10, 2010 | 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

My truck runs for 10 minutes then sputters and dies, have to sit and wait 5-10 mins to start again, then problem repeats every 10 minutes

See what you are loosing, spark or fuel.
(Note that a working fuel pump will build pressure, but if the injectors aren't "firing", you still won't get fuel.
Yours sounds like a possible ignition module.

Apr 09, 2010 | 1991 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Car tries to crank but just wont fire off oil light stays on but has plenty oil. owner replaced water pump and i reset gaps on plug but this still didnt any ideas?

I assume that it is cranking over at normal speed?
Take one spark plug out and re connect the lead to the distributor. With some rubber gloves on hold the base of the spark plug against the block and get someone else to crank the engine briefly. If you see a good spark then your problem is probably fuel.
If you don't see a spark then you have an electrical problem.

Other things to look at. Check your fuel filter make sure it isn't blocked. Make sure your air cleaner isn't dirty.

It comes down to fuel, air, spark. Try and narrow you problem down to one of these three.

Hope this helps

Aug 13, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

1984 volkswagen crank no start getting fuel and spark

You must have the plug leads in the wrong place on the distributor.
Firing order is 1-3-4-2
Remove the distributor cap. There is a tiny mark on the aluminum body where the cap sits on it. Turn the motor clockwise by hand until the rotor lines up with this mark. #1 plug lead should be in the distributor cap hole closest to the rotor in a clockwise direction.
If the motor still does not start rotate all the plug leads 180 Deg.

Jun 18, 2009 | 1984 Volkswagen Rabbit

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