Question about 2004 GMC Envoy

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Fan wobbles, no leaks or high temperture

New fan clutch, belt ok, just wobbles and makes a slight noise only when fisrt starting

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  • Expert
  • 183 Answers

Water pump is bad

Posted on Jan 18, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

justuscc
  • 360 Answers

SOURCE: Loud Cooling Fan

that fan is very loud on that truck. if its not makin noise its not cooling. common on gm trucks

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

cbcs2008
  • 46 Answers

SOURCE: FAN WOBBLES AND MAKES NOISE?

Water pump is going out and that is the first thing that happens

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: fan clutch and coolant flush

To replace the fan clutch you need to remove the radiator hose which will spill some coolant (redish in color). This coolant is mixed with small amount of oil, this mean the oil in the coolant is normal. After fan replacement, re fill the radiator with coolant.

Regarding the camshaft phaser or camshaft position sensor solenoid, if the oil leak is due to the O-ring gasket you only need to repalce the gasket. If the oil leak seeps through the copper connectors then you need to replace camshaft phaser.

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

bbbman78
  • 680 Answers

SOURCE: pulley making noise, little paly in it fan clutch?

Shut the engine off and let it cool down. Then reach in and try to turn the fan. It should move smoothly with some resistance. If it's loose, doesn't move smoothly, or just spins easily. It's time to change it. It is threaded onto the water pump and takes a semi special tool to unbolt. Also, it's a left hand thread. What concerns me though is that you say the pulley is making noise. If it's making noise, and there's "play" in it. It very well may be the water pump.

Posted on Feb 28, 2010

  • 5370 Answers

SOURCE: The fan on my 2002

For doing that you will require a tool.That tool is called j46406.This tool is used to loose or to tighten the nut. ---------- First read the procedure:---

Remove the fan hub nut from the water pump shaft in a counterclockwise rotation. Using the j46406 tool , in order to secure the water pump pulley, loosen the cooling fan hub nut from the water pump shaft.

Unclip the fan shroud from the radiator at the side panels.

Tilt the radiator and the condenser forward.

Lift the fan and the shroud up and out towards the engine to release the fan from the radiator to clear the radiator inlet.

· Remove the cooling fan and shroud
· Remove the fan clutch from the fan shroud.

· Remove the bolts retaining the fan blade to the fan clutch.

· Separate the fan blade from the fan clutch.

To order the tool to remove the nut,please click on the link below:---

http://www.etoolcart.com/fanclutchremoverandinstallerj-41240.aspx

-------------------

Also click this link directly for more help:---

http://reviews.ebay.com/Envoy-Trailblazer-Electonic-Fan-Clutch-Replacement-Help_W0QQugidZ10000000003639613

-------------


-----------------

If you dont have tool then other procedure is as follows:---

There is a clutch hub holding toll that you may need but try this first, use a large hammer to sharply strike the handle of the wrench toward the passenger side of the truck. Two or three sharp hits should loosen the first thread of the hub nut so that you can spin it off the rest of the way by hand. It does help to have the belt installed. Be carefull you don't strike anything else.

----------------

This will help.Keep updated.Thanks/.Helpmech.


Posted on Feb 11, 2011

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1 Answer

My 1999 ford RAnger has heat but the fan makes alot of noise and does not blow out the heat and the trucks gauge will go hot. What would the issue? Heater core or mayb just the fuse?


Diagnose Cooling Fan Clutch On engines with belt-driven cooling fans, a fan clutch is often used to save energy and reduce noise. The fan clutch disengages slows or disengages the engine's cooling fan when extra cooling isn't needed. The fan pulls air through the radiator and air conditioning condenser when the vehicle isn't moving fast enough to provide adequate airflow for cooling. A fan can eat up anywhere from a couple of horsepower up to 12 or 15 hp on a big V8, so by reducing the parasitic horsepower loss on the engine the fan clutch makes a noticeable difference in fuel economy

TWO TYPES OF FAN CLUTCHES basic types of fan clutches: thermal and non-thermal (also called "torque limiting Thermal fan clutches have a temperature-sensitive bimetal coil spring on the front that reacts to temperature changes. When the air coming through the radiator is hot, the spring expands and opens an internal valve that reduces clutch slippage. This causes the fan to spin faster for increased cooling. As the air cools, the spring contracts and closes the valve. This increases the amount of clutch slippage, allowing the fan to slow down and decrease cooling FAN CLUTCH OPERATION

The clutch consists of a fluid coupling filled with a silicone based oil. In the cutaway view at the left, the area between the teeth on the clutch plates is filled with silicone fluid. An internal valve opens and closes a passage between the main fluid cavity and a fluid reservoir. When the passage is open, fluid enters the clutch and makes the fan to turn faster. When the valve is shut, fluid flows back to the reservoir but doesn't return, causing the clutch to slip and the fan to turn more slowly.
The non-thermal (torque limiting) fan clutch doesn't have a temperature sensing capability. It reacts only to speed, slipping to limit maximum fan speed to about 1200 to 2200 rpm depending on the application.

FAN CLUTCH PROBLEMS

A slipping fan clutch is often overlooked as the cause of an engine overheating problem.
As a fan clutch ages, fluid deterioration gradually causes an increase in slippage (about 200 rpm per year). After a number of years of service, the clutch may slip so badly that the fan can't keep up with the cooling needs of the engine and the engine overheats. At this point, replacement is often necessary.
Other signs of fan cluch failure would include any looseness in the clutch (check for fan wobble), or oil streaks radiating outward from the clutch hub.
If the clutch is binding, the fan may not release causing excessive cooling and noise, especially at highway speeds

CHECKING THE FAN CLUTCH

A good clutch should offer a certain amount of resistance when spun by hand (engine off, of course!). But if the fan spins with little resistance (more than 1 to 1-1/2 turns), the fan clutch is slipping too much and needs to be replaced.
If the fan binds, does not turn or offers a lot of resistance, it has seized and also needs to be replaced.
Fan speed can also be checked with an optical tachometer, by marking one of the fan blades with chalk and using a timing light to observe speed changes, and/or listening for changes in fan noise as engine speed changes.
You should also try to wiggle the fan blades by hand. If there is any wobble in the fan, there is a bad bearing in the fan clutch, or a worn bearing on the water pump shaft. A bad water pump bearing will usually cause the water pump to leak and/or make noise, but not always. Remove the fan clutch and see if the play is in the water pump shaft. If it feels tight (no play or wobble), replace the fan clutch.

FAN CLUTCH REPLACEMENT

Many experts say it is a good idea to replace the fan clutch at the same time as the water pump if the water pump has failed. The reason is because both age at about the same rate, so if the water pump has failed, the fan clutch may also fail soon. As as we mentioned earlier, a high mileage fan clutch may be slipping excessively increasing the risk of overheating.
When you buy a replacement fan clutch, make sure you get the same type (thermal or nonthermal) as the original. You can always upgrade from a nonthermal to a more efficient thermal fan clutch, but never the reverse. Or, you can get rid of the fan and clutch altogether and install an aftermarket electric fan kit to cool the radiator.

Sep 28, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2003 buick regal fan belt wobbling grinding noise over heating


Possible water pump. Remove the belt and grab the pulley , wiggle and spin. Check the other pulleys as well.

Dec 22, 2013 | 2000 Buick Regal

1 Answer

94 Dodge Dakota Makes Grinding noise dependent upon engine speed


Check if it's the fan, take off the belt and run it long enough to see if the noise disappears.

Jun 13, 2013 | 1994 Dodge Dakota Club Cab

1 Answer

The van starts fine when at non operating temperature but after it runs and warms up and i turn it off THEN try to start it i have to wait for it to cool down to get it to start.(it's just warm not...


On engines with belt-driven cooling fans, a fan clutch is often used to save energy and reduce noise. The fan clutch disengages slows or disengages the engine's cooling fan when extra cooling isn't needed. The fan pulls air through the radiator and air conditioning condenser when the vehicle isn't moving fast enough to provide adequate airflow for cooling. A fan can eat up anywhere from a couple of horsepower up to 12 or 15 hp on a big V8, so by reducing the parasitic horsepower loss on the engine the fan clutch makes a noticeable difference in fuel economy.

A slipping fan clutch is often overlooked as the cause of an engine overheating problem.

As a fan clutch ages, fluid deterioration gradually causes an increase in slippage (about 200 rpm per year). After a number of years of service, the clutch may slip so badly that the fan can't keep up with the cooling needs of the engine and the engine overheats. At this point, replacement is often necessary.

Other signs of fan cluch failure would include any looseness in the clutch (check for fan wobble), or oil streaks radiating outward from the clutch hub.

If the clutch is binding, the fan may not release causing excessive cooling and noise, especially at highway speeds

CHECKING THE FAN CLUTCH

A good clutch should offer a certain amount of resistance when spun by hand (engine off, of course!). But if the fan spins with little resistance (more than 1 to 1-1/2 turns), the fan clutch is slipping too much and needs to be replaced.

If the fan binds, does not turn or offers a lot of resistance, it has seized and also needs to be replaced.

Fan speed can also be checked with an optical tachometer, by marking one of the fan blades with chalk and using a timing light to observe speed changes, and/or listening for changes in fan noise as engine speed changes.

You should also try to wiggle the fan blades by hand. If there is any wobble in the fan, there is a bad bearing in the fan clutch, or a worn bearing on the water pump shaft. A bad water pump bearing will usually cause the water pump to leak and/or make noise, but not always. Remove the fan clutch and see if the play is in the water pump shaft. If it feels tight (no play or wobble), replace the fan clutch.

I posted this to another Ford Problem and I believe it applies to you as well.

This is a shot in the dark with out running diagnostics myself but here it goes, I had a 1988 Cavalier that would just die while I was driving it. On short drives, in the morning, when the engine was cool... it would not die. It would only die after the engine heated up to a certain point.

I took it all over the place to see what the problem was and nobody could figure it out, until finally I took it to my local Firestone shop and they had a special diagnostic tool that checked all of the electrical connections and low and behold I had a misc. wire that crossed the back of my engine from one side of the engine bay to the other. This wire was melted to my engine block and when the engine heated up to a certain point the wire would short out.

After they pinpointed the wire they replaced it with an in-tact wire and it worked beautifully.

Again, I am not stating that this is for sure your problem, but take it from me that there are better diagnostics to run then your standard error code ODB II dump.

Hope that helps and let me know if there are any developments.

Brian

May 26, 2011 | 1995 Ford Econoline

1 Answer

2004 gmc envoy. has a 6cyl and a serp belt. the center pully off set to the left (i think its a water pump) has a bad wobble and making a horrible noise. Not over heating and no leaks. should i just change...


If the fan is attached to it than it is the water pump making the noise and it will need to be replaced. If the fan clutch is not attached to it than it is either the idler pulley or the tensioner pulley. The tensioner is on the passenger side (left) of the front of the motor.

Oct 07, 2010 | 2004 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

My engine continues to idle high while driving sounding like a school bus...I was told it's the cylinder fan and now it's starts to make this squeaking noise which I too was told that was my serpentine...


Your engine cooling fan clutch is defective, have a shop look at it, the noise from the belt is caused by the huge resistance of the defective fan clutch, that is why the roar.

Mar 27, 2010 | 2002 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

Fan clutch is wobbly and making a noice


You should replace the fan clutch. Unbolt it from the water pump and pull cluth and fan out together. Unbolt fan blade making note of blade angles, so you install it right on new clutch. Bolt fan on new clutch and reinstall unit. When the clutch has play or wobbles it is time to replace it before it breaks off and goes thru the radiator.

Nov 08, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab

1 Answer

Loud high pitched noise from belt


When you have the belt off, spin that idler pulley and see if it turns easily or makes noise. Check if the bearing feels good and smooth or if it wobbles any. While you are at it, check the fan and fan clutch to see if they turn smoothly also. There should be some resistance to the fan clutch, and make sure the fan isn't rubbing on anything.

Replacing the idler pulley is usually done as a unit since the bearing is part of the pulley.

May 07, 2009 | 1991 Ford F250

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