Question about Dodge Avenger
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: what is the procedure to
You don't need the special tools that they use in this procedure, you can use a hammer and a block of wood to get the axle out of the hub and you can use a pry bar to get the axle out of the transmisson.
Notice: Care must be exercised to prevent the constant-velocity joints from being over-extended. When either end of the drive axle is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joints and seals should be protected any time service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or seal damage and possible joint failure.
Notice: Prior to removal of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during removal.
Any time the front halfshaft is removed, the transmission (the halfshaft male and female shank) and the knuckle sealing surfaces should be inspected for debris or corrosion.
If debris or corrosion are present on the sealing surfaces, clean them with a 320 grit cloth or equivalent. Transmission fluid may be used to clean off any of the remaining debris. The surface should be wiped dry, and the halfshaft should be reinstalled free of any debris or corrosion buildup.
Important: Verify that the drive axle is seated by grasping on the inner joint housing and pulling outboard.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Tighten the drive axle nut to 200 N·m (144 lb ft).
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
SOURCE: CV Axle removal and installation
The axle should be able to be removed by using a flat ended pry bar tool with a dull flat end. Or possibly a very large flat screw driver. Put the pry bar between the axle and transmission. With light pressure, the axle should pop out of the transmission. The axle just snaps into the transmission. There should be no need or cause to damage the seal because the seal is inset into the transmission. Just watch what you are doing. As far as replacing the seal, I do not know. I have not had to do that yet, and I have replaced both sides with new boots more than once.
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
have you undone the main hub bolt, if yes, there could be two different items holding the cv joint on, one is a small circlip in the joint end, or the other is just like an expanding metal ring again only small. what i had to do to change my one was take the driveshaft out (easier to see whats there) then gently (rubber hammer) hit the CV joint it should then fall off to allow you to change the CV joint. I spent over an hour trying to get the metal ring off, then after taking driveshaft off it was changed and back on in ten mins. Or you can go to a motor factors or similar and get a boot puller, my opinion hammer works better lol
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
REMOVE your whelland tire on the side that you want to make to fix, removed your brake caliper and attach it with a piece of wire to the suspention strut ,remove the part that hold the caliper,remove the bolt or the nut that hold the lower balljoint in your lower suspention arm to your stering kuckle,and separate those two parts with a long pry-bar or a suspention fork and hammer,remove your disc brake,loose the spindle nut from the axle(this big nut is in the center of whell and if you are not working witch an air impact tool loose it right after removing your whell cap before removing the whell this is a high torque on it be sure to tight it correcly when yuo ins tall it)and pull the suspension strut foward you to removed the axle from the stering kuckle take apry-bar put it betwen the transmission and axle and pry it out some trans mission fluid may leak installation is reverse.
Posted on Mar 08, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 12, 2014 | 1997 Honda Accord
Sep 15, 2014 | 1997 Mercury Mountaineer
Jul 25, 2014 | 1997 Dodge Avenger
Jul 13, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Jan 24, 2012 | Toyota RAV4 Cars & Trucks
Oct 11, 2010 | 1997 Dodge Avenger
Aug 05, 2009 | GMC Sierra 1500 Cars & Trucks
Jun 09, 2009 | 1994 Dodge Caravan
Mar 13, 2009 | 1995 Dodge Intrepid
Dec 17, 2017 | Dodge Neon Cars & Trucks
163 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: