Question about 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid
Studs is weldet insid of the braket #yl8z4a499aahow
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's nearly impossible unless you have a good air compressor and a powerful 1/2" or larger drive impact gun.The reason is you have to remove the cv axle nut and axle out of the way before removing the bearing and hub.The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove.The procedure is:Jack vehicle safely off the ground,remove wheel and tire.Remove axle retaining nut.Remove balljoint nut and bolt,pry down on lower control arm,and disengage balljoint and lower arm from spindle.Now the axle can be released from the hub,but leave the other end of the axle in the trans,just set off to the side out of the way.At this point,there are two ways to change the bearing.The wheel bearing is a double roller,cartridge type with the hub containg the wheel studs,pressed into the bearing.Remove the entire spindle assembly from the suspension strut,OR leave the spindle attached to the strut,and remove the bearing and hub from the spindle.Some guys swear by taking the spindle to a press,and pressing the bearing assembly out with a bottle jack.I just use a bushing driver set,and ball peen hammer,and remove the hub from the bearing...then remove the snap ring retaing the bearing in the spindle,then drive the bearing out of the spindle with the hammer and drivers.There you have it.Reverse procedure for reassembly
Posted on Jul 11, 2008
Front or rear? The front will have a disc and the rear should be a drum. Either way the stud gets pressed out of the back and with the proper equipment it is a very easy procedure. If you do not have the proper tools simply take the drum or disc to a brake shop for the inexpensive repair to be done properly.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
All the Ford Escapes (thru 2011) have a Gen1 cartridge type bearing on the front. I'm pretty sure that the bearing is also the same for all Escapes; FWD and AWD, V6 and I4. I'm not sure, but I suspect the Hybrids are the same also.
The Gen1 bearing is difficult to replace yourself unless you have access to a hydraulic press.
The bearing has a press fit into the knuckle and the wheel hub. For most people, I would recommend the dealer or a decent shop.
If you're brave, here are the shorthand steps to replace the bearing:
Remove the wheel/tire.
Remove the brake caliper and rotor.
Remove the ABS sensor. It's a small bolt, be careful.
Remove the axle nut and press the axle shaft out (You should use a special tool for this) Beating it with a hammer is NOT recommended and will damage the axle threads. It's not stuck or rusty, the spline on the axle has a slight Helix that locks it to the hub.
Remove the lower ball joint. Do this first, while the strut and tie rod are still connected, because you might have to really work it over. Remove the cross (pinch) bolt and nut. Pull the ball joint out. If stuck, you may have to open the pinch joint a little with a punch or chisel.
Remove the tie rod nut and the tie rod from the knuckle.
Remove the 2 strut bolts.
I'm pretty sure that the knuckle/hub assembly is now loose, then:
Press the hub out of the bearing. Half of the inner bearing race will be stuck on the hub.
Press that inner race off the hub. Maybe a "bearing splitter" will work.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing out of the knuckle. It's OK to press against the inner race; you're going to replace it anyway. (Note: whatever you're doing, don't try to save the bearing. Don't.)
The new bearing can be installed either way; it's symetrical.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only! Do not press across the inner race. You can use the old outer race as a press tool. Do not damage the seal retainer or seal.
Insert the snap ring. Make sure it's fully seated. Check it again.
Press the hub into the bearing. Do NOT press thru the knuckle (and the bearing) as a base. You must support the bearing at the inner race. Using the knuckle will damage the bearing, and you'll be doing this all over in about 500 miles.
The knuckle can be reinstalled on the vehicle in whatever order you want, but I recommend putting some grease on the spline and put it on the axle first and hand start the nut. You can torque the nut later. The axle nut torque is 300Nm (220Ft-lbs).
Posted on Oct 19, 2010
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