Question about 2001 Ford Ranger Regular Cab

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Should it take more than 30 min to bleed the slave cylinder

I have a 95 Ford F-150 4x4 and I'm trying to bleed the Slave Cylinder. It has taken us about 30 min so far and I'm still getting air. Could there be another problem with the clutch.

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Get it to where it will work and drive it a while it will work its way out .

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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How do I bleed a external clutch slave cylinder with no bleed screw on a 95 ford f250 turbo diesel


Need to remember that air rises. When replacing slave cylinder first hook everything up and bleed using the nut on the connecting line at the slave, then slowly depress and release pedal making sure to keep plenty of fluid in the reservoir, then after sitting a bit, tap on slave cylinder, line from bottom all the way up to the master, then loosen the nut connecting the line to the master and allow any air there to escape. Repeat whole process if needed.

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my best solution supposing you have taken care of all leaks is to take it to a nice incline and just pump the heck out of the clutch pedal and that should get any air out of the system, the messy way is to find a bleeder at the slave cylinder,(some fords dont have a bleeder at the slave) and open it just like you would bleed a brake system

Mar 10, 2011 | Ford Laser Cars & Trucks

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Cant bleed clutch changed both cylinders still no clutch


does the slave cylinder have a bleeder? it should. auto parts stores sell hand-operated vacuum pumps for bleeding brakes. i have used mine to pull fluid through clutch hydraulics to get enough pressure to commence the regular bleeding process. hope this helps.

Nov 10, 2010 | 1988 Chevrolet K2500

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Cannot bleed 1988 ford p/u clutchmaster cylinder


you have to bench bleed. Here is a procedure from autozone.com. Let me know if this doesn't help.


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
Externally Mounted Slave Cylinder

  1. Clean the reservoir cap and the slave cylinder connection.
  2. Remove the slave cylinder from the housing.
  3. Using a 3 / 32 in. punch, drive out the pin that holds the tube in place.
  4. Remove the tube from the slave cylinder and place the end of the tube in a container.
  5. Hold the slave cylinder so that the connector port is at the highest point, by tipping it about 30° from horizontal. Fill the cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid through the port. It may be necessary to rock the cylinder or slightly depress the pushrod to expel all the air.
WARNING Pushing too hard on the pushrod will spurt fluid from the port!
  1. When all air is expelled (no more bubble are seen), install the slave cylinder.
Some fluid will be expelled during installation as the pushrod is depressed.
  1. Remove the reservoir cap. Some fluid will run out of the tube end into the container. Pour fluid into the reservoir until a steady stream of fluid runs out of the tube and the reservoir is filled. Quickly install the diaphragm and cap. The flow should stop.
  2. Connect the tube and install the pin. Check the fluid level.
  3. Check the clutch operation.

Oct 17, 2010 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to install a slave cylinder on a 95 ford ranger


The easiest way to deal with this problem is to order the complete preblead slave cylinder kit.
You can, just go with a new slave cylinder but because of the age of the other parts. You may run into other problems down the road. Why have to do it twice.
To replace the slave cylinder only:
Its easy, just carefully push/remove the small metal pin that hold the plastic line to the slave cylinder. then push-in and turn counterclockwise, to remove slave cylinder. Then install new slave cylinder and reverse the procedure. Now bleeding the system will take a while. But all you will do is just keep pumping the clutch pedal until the pedal returns.

May 18, 2010 | 1995 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

Master or slave cylinder...leakage?? lines..??


I am totally unfamiliar with the particular setup you have, however I know a bit about clutches, Sifting through what you said, it appears that your clutch is set up too tight. By this I mean that the throwout bearing is always pressing on the release diaphram (or fingers) on the clutch cover. As you drive this is causing the clutch disc to overheat and slip. The repeated bleeding you are doing likely has no effect on this other than that the time you spend bleeding is allowing the clutch assembly to cool off. If the slave cylinder is part of the throwout bearing and is inside the bellhousing you need to remove it and get one that is slightly shorter. If the slave is mounted on the bellhousing and activates a clutch fork that moves the bearing you will need to find a means of backing off the slave adjustment so there is a bit of freeplay between it and the fork. likely since you can drive it you are looking at 1/4" or less play to get it right. My only concern would be that you may have overcentered the fingers on the pressure plate and damaged the return spring. slipping the clutch also has not done good things to the disc either. (like driving down the road with your foot on the brake is not good for brake pads)
Good luck with your project !!

Mar 22, 2009 | 1995 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Is it a bad Slave Cylinder or a Master Cylinder on my 95 F-150


did you try to take line off at slave cyl. and see if fluid comes from resavor? also take bleeder out and see if holes are pluged up in bleeder. if all this chks. out ok than its got to be slave cyl. they have been known to go bad. just that quick too.

Jan 26, 2009 | 2001 Ford Ranger Regular Cab

1 Answer

The clutch on my car stuck to the floor. I check the reservoir was completely empty. I have a feeling the slave cylinder is filled with air. I'll need to get the schematics to see how to bleed the clutch.


Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding brakes. You'd pump the clutch pedal several times to get the pressure up, and then open the bleeder on the slave cylinder (mounted down on the transmission). Repeat and add fluid as needed until no air comes out.

Two things - first off, some cars have more than one bleed point (the Nissan 300ZX is one of those), so be sure there is only the slave cylinder to bleed. Second, if it went right to the floor, something failed - either the slave cylinder or the master cylinder. Changing the slave is relatively easy - usually two bolts and it comes off, you put on a new one, and bleed it as described above. Often the slave cylinder is less than $30, so it's worth it to try changing it if you can't get the pedal to come back off the floor on its own. A clutch master is significantly more expensive and more difficult to change, so start cheap and easy and replace the slave cylinder if you can't pump the pedal to get pressure built up for a bleed.

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95 mazda b4000 slave cylinder bleeder valve location


the nipple sticks out side the bell housing on the left side just above your hydralic line for your clutch,auto zones web has a complete diagraham and steps for bleeding

Jun 17, 2008 | 1996 Mazda Pickup

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