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Chevy 2011 aveo system readiness for inspection

I've driven my car over 100 miles and it is still saying not ready for inspection. what do I do?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 188 Answers

SOURCE: EGR System .....Not Ready

Try running a tank of Supreme gas & a can of SEAFOAM in the gas tank. It might clear up your problem????? Go chance of it.

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

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daves944
  • 1050 Answers

SOURCE: System monitor - clearing DTCs -

It's not a matter of how many miles, it's more "how" you drive. If you do not have an engine light on now, whatever you do, DON'T disconnect the battery. That will trip all your readiness monitors and make it more difficult to complete the drive cycle. If you have a code set now and the engine light is on, it would be best to get the car scanned and find out how to repair the problem or you are going to waste a lot of time and money driving around and going to the test to get rejected. If there is no light on but you have made a repair and cleared the codes, this is how to drive the car to reset the readiness monitors.

Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:

  1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
    Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
  2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.
  3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
  4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
  7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
  8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

  • 299 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 chevy s-10 pickup again. Not Ready codes. This time I am

you will need to drive approx 500 miles it will eliminate the not ready but will bring back the codes

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks. I thought I would just need to drive it a few miles (two or three trips). I would have been really frustrated that it did not fix the problem."

  • 108 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 chevy aveo

There is only 2 options.

1. Your radio code is in your paperwork for your car (Its on a hard plastic card) Find it.

2. Take your registration to Vin and Ser Number for your radio to your local dealer.

These codes are a guarded secret and no one code fits all.


Hope this tip helps guide you in the correct direction to solve this problem.

Posted on Apr 11, 2010

Testimonial: "as your information was very helpful but I dont have the paperwork or card and dealer want $75.00 to fix problem. thanks very muvh."

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: Can't get my 96 chev s-10 to pass inspection due

Here is the drive cycle procedure for that vehicle, and let me know if you require any further assistance.


Running an OBD-II Drive Cycle

The purpose of the OBD-II drive cycle is to run all of the onboard diagnostics. The drive cycle should be perfomed when any trouble codes are erased from the PCM or if the battery was dis-connected. Performing the drive cycle will reset the monitors so that any further trouble codes can be detected.

The OBD-II system drive cycle begins with a cold start with the coolant temperature below 120 degrees F. and the coolant and the air temperature sensors within 10 degrees of each other. (The ignition key must not be "on" or in the "Run" position until the cold start or the heated O2 sensor diagnostic might not start)

1. As soon as the vehicle starts up, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the AC and the rear defrost on if equipped with a rear window defroster. The OBD-II will check the O2 sensor circuits, the air pump, and the EVAP purge.

2. After the two and a half minutes turn off the AC and the rear window defrost, and then accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBD-II checks for any ignition mis-fires, fuel trim, and canister purge.

3. Hold steady at 55 mph for three minutes. OBD-II monitors the EGR system, the air pump, the O2 sensors and the canister purge.

4. After the three minutes decelerate down to 20 mph without using the brakes or the clutch. OBD-II checks the EGR and the purge functions.

5. Accelerate back up to 55 mph at half throttle. OBD-II checks for mis-fires, fuel trim, and purge functions again.

6. Hold steady at 55 mph for five minutes. OBD-II will monitor catalytic converter efficiency, for any mis-fires, EGR function, fuel trim, O2 sensor operation, and purge functions.

7. Decelerate to a stiop without using the brakes or the clutch. OBD-II makes a final check of the EGR system and the canister purge functions.

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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2 Answers

Why do i get OBD/READINESS, Not ready?


Alan, I f you have had battery disconnected or had some one erase codes recently, the computer has to go through what is known as a drive cycle to complete all monitors cycling, some vehicles complete cycle in 10 miles, where as some could take 100 miles or more.
My Toyota EVAP readiness state will not cycle in cold weather and takes thousands of miles before it gets to readiness state.
I think some shops can force systems to run if they have a good scan tool.

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Generally speaking, the truck has to be driven at least 100 miles in various driving conditions including highway and city driving and at full operating temp. The mechanics are correct in saying there is nothing they can do to trick the system into thinking this has happened.
If 100 miles did not do it you may have to drive 2 or 3 hundred miles then try the test.
The purpose of the computer being "ready" is having used and tested all of the emission components for problems. Once the vehicle is driven far enough for the computer to use all of the components, and no trouble codes are set, the test is passed.
Even if you normally only drive in the city you still have to log 50 or 60 miles on the highway to satisfy the requirement for the engine computer.

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In general terms, the car has to be driven for 50 - 100 miles in various conditions to allow the engine computer to check emissions.
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I've been to the inspection facility three times, and they tell me that the truck is still not ready and that it hasn't been driven enough. How much do I have to drive it for it to be consider


You don't have to drive it at all

Any repair shop you go to should make the proper
repairs,apparently that was not done

Once repaired the Monitor will clear or eventually run
without you doing anything special

If any relearn driving was needed, it would have to be looked
up & done by a repair shop

Simply put-- these shop don't know what their doing,
& most likely have no access to any vehicle data,
which you need to even be in business

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It's not the battery itself that's the issue. When you disconnected the battery to replace it, you cleared all the data from the computer. The computer then runs a self test of all systems to determine that they are functioning properly. There are several systems to be tested, and until they pass the test, each system is classified 'not ready'. Some system tests are done very quickly, with only one 'drive cycle', and they become 'ready'. Some systems require multiple drive cycles, and take longer. For some vehicles, specific criteria have to be met. On my vehicle, before the vapor recovery system can be tested, the fuel tank has to be between 1/4 and 3/4 full.

Some testing stations (depending on state) require all systems to be 'ready'. Some require a specific number to be 'ready', e.g., seven of nine. Find out what the requirements are, and which systems still need to complete testing, then check with a dealer for your make/model to see what is required to complete testing for that (those) systems.

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Hello,
What you are experiencing is this.
Your computer in your car runs on "Drive Cycles". Each separate time you start your car you enter a new drive cycle. In order for the Evaporative and the Oxygen to activate the drive cycle must be long enough and far enough to get all the systems up to the right temperatures. This could take up to 15 miles of continuous driving.
What your problem sounds like is you are not driving your car long enough the very day you have it inspected.
What you did last week cannot effect a new drive cycle today. For each cycle is independent of the others.
Try driving it longer than you have in your previous attempts of inspection.
Best Wishes,
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